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equalizer hitch towing r25
- Thread starter starr
- Start date
captain's cat
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Sam Walker
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Hi Starr. The major problem w/ equalizing hitches on boat trailers has been to make sure that the surge braking system still functions. If you have the electric over hydraulic trailer brakes or if you can work it so that the surge braking system will still function, you should definitely go w/ an equalizing hitch.
I have been pulling RV type trailers for years. I would not dream of pulling an RV type trailer w/out an equalizing hitch. Even w/ my F-250. It distributes the tongue weight more evenly across the tow vehicle, which allows for even ride. This will causes less sway and better front axle braking and steering control on your tow vehicle. Do it if you can.
I have been pulling RV type trailers for years. I would not dream of pulling an RV type trailer w/out an equalizing hitch. Even w/ my F-250. It distributes the tongue weight more evenly across the tow vehicle, which allows for even ride. This will causes less sway and better front axle braking and steering control on your tow vehicle. Do it if you can.
Well, for about 10 years I towed a 26 foot Airstream (heavy, 1962, all oak wood) behind a 1/2 Ton Suburban. The equalizing bars were recommend and installed. Sure straightens out the ride, and balances the weight. BUT.
What a pain !!! Adding them on, taking them off, chaining, correcting, every time.
Then, in 2008, I bought a R-25, Blue Bayou, and towed it with a Ford F-350 diesel. Having had the equalizing bars before, I wanted none of it.
Turns out, F-350's from the factory only have a tow frame with 7500 lb capacity, and the R-25 with trailer, plus reasonably full tanks of lidquid, plus personal items, can easily weigh in excess of 10,000 lbs.
The solution: Buy and after-market tow frame with 13,000 lb capacity, and a much better attachment to the major frame parts of the pickup, in this case an F-350. Also, a new ball rated at 13,000 lbs.
I towed my R-25 in excess of 20,000 miles on road, from Flaming Gorge in Wyoming to Lake Powell in Utah over 2 lane mountain highways. I towed it 900 miles from San Francisco to Seattle in 2 days on I-5, going about 60. No matter what the conditions, the beefy tow frame and beefy truck made towing a breeze. I was never in jeopardy once on the highway, or at the ramp. It handled as good or better as the Airstream with equalizing bars. I would never own them again.
Inspect your towing vehicle's frame. If you're not sure, buy a bigger one, and have it professionally installed, along with all beefy towing parts. Then cruise down the highway in security.
What a pain !!! Adding them on, taking them off, chaining, correcting, every time.
Then, in 2008, I bought a R-25, Blue Bayou, and towed it with a Ford F-350 diesel. Having had the equalizing bars before, I wanted none of it.
Turns out, F-350's from the factory only have a tow frame with 7500 lb capacity, and the R-25 with trailer, plus reasonably full tanks of lidquid, plus personal items, can easily weigh in excess of 10,000 lbs.
The solution: Buy and after-market tow frame with 13,000 lb capacity, and a much better attachment to the major frame parts of the pickup, in this case an F-350. Also, a new ball rated at 13,000 lbs.
I towed my R-25 in excess of 20,000 miles on road, from Flaming Gorge in Wyoming to Lake Powell in Utah over 2 lane mountain highways. I towed it 900 miles from San Francisco to Seattle in 2 days on I-5, going about 60. No matter what the conditions, the beefy tow frame and beefy truck made towing a breeze. I was never in jeopardy once on the highway, or at the ramp. It handled as good or better as the Airstream with equalizing bars. I would never own them again.
Inspect your towing vehicle's frame. If you're not sure, buy a bigger one, and have it professionally installed, along with all beefy towing parts. Then cruise down the highway in security.
notaclue
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- CHRISTINA BEE
one thing to remember,, equalizers do just that. if you have a 2 wheell drive truck and are pulling your boat out on a slippery ramp,, disconnect them.. it will put more weight of the rear drive wheels. if you don"t want to spring for 4 wheel drive make sure your differential is posi trac or equipped with a track locker. i am in complete aggreement with denny -o -- 4wheel drive is a high price to pay if the only time you are going to use it is pulling out your boat .. i have a 3/4 ton 2 wheel drive with air bags and have not had a problem getting it out of the water all the way from san carlos mexico to annacortes wa. glad to see you are still with us,charles, steve and tina 😉
When I was buying a Ranger Tug, AND a pickup truck to pull it, several people (including the boat dealer---whole lived on a sailboat that never left the water all year) said, "You don't need 4WD to pull a boat up the launch ramp."
Steve, you are advising, as if you had.....not a clue !!!! While someone who already has a 2WD contractor's pickup----can get by fine, the optimum situation is to have 4WD AND a real beefy towing frame and hitch. No Sweat, instead of notta clue--------that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.
Countless times, when I was on a slimy, steep-pitched ramp, with the rear axle in the water, and about 5 tons of Ranger Tug waiting behind in the water, I merely popped it into Low 4 wheel drive, and happily crawled up the ramp to where it was level. I would gladly pay more for 4WD. It's usually only a couple of thousand dollars difference, on a truck that costs 30-40 grand or more. And, the fuel consumption difference is negligile, these days.
And, I HAVE watched guys burn a lots of rubber on boat ramps, trying to get traction and pull their heavy boat out.
Like most of these issues.....the one time you must really have it, you're glad you didn't go cheap.
Charles
NLWP (no longer with pickup)
Steve, you are advising, as if you had.....not a clue !!!! While someone who already has a 2WD contractor's pickup----can get by fine, the optimum situation is to have 4WD AND a real beefy towing frame and hitch. No Sweat, instead of notta clue--------that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.
Countless times, when I was on a slimy, steep-pitched ramp, with the rear axle in the water, and about 5 tons of Ranger Tug waiting behind in the water, I merely popped it into Low 4 wheel drive, and happily crawled up the ramp to where it was level. I would gladly pay more for 4WD. It's usually only a couple of thousand dollars difference, on a truck that costs 30-40 grand or more. And, the fuel consumption difference is negligile, these days.
And, I HAVE watched guys burn a lots of rubber on boat ramps, trying to get traction and pull their heavy boat out.
Like most of these issues.....the one time you must really have it, you're glad you didn't go cheap.
Charles
NLWP (no longer with pickup)
Stella Maris
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I have to agree with Charles here. If when buying your R-25/29 you have a good heavy duty two wheel drive truck, keep it, use it, but when it comes time to replace it, go with 4x4. When we were towing Solitude, I never had an issue coming out of the water. I simply put it in four wheel drive low, put it in first gear, eased out the clutch and the truck "crawled" up the ramp without me so much as touching the accelerator!
Now on the other hand, there were times where I would unhook the trailer, grab my tow chain out, hook it onto the two wheel drive truck that could not get traction, and pull them up the ramp.
I am amazed at the number of people that spend $125,000 plus for a boat, travel trailer, etc, and then try to go cheap with the tow vehicle. Your tow vehicle ranks right up there with your anchor. When hanging on the hook, your anchor is your insurance that you are going to pretty much stay where you need to stay no matter the weather. When running down the highway at 60 miles and hour with 10,000 pounds of Ranger Tug behind you, your tow vehicle is your insurance that if an emergency should arise, you are going to be able to maintain control of the entire rig.
Now on the other hand, there were times where I would unhook the trailer, grab my tow chain out, hook it onto the two wheel drive truck that could not get traction, and pull them up the ramp.
I am amazed at the number of people that spend $125,000 plus for a boat, travel trailer, etc, and then try to go cheap with the tow vehicle. Your tow vehicle ranks right up there with your anchor. When hanging on the hook, your anchor is your insurance that you are going to pretty much stay where you need to stay no matter the weather. When running down the highway at 60 miles and hour with 10,000 pounds of Ranger Tug behind you, your tow vehicle is your insurance that if an emergency should arise, you are going to be able to maintain control of the entire rig.
commander bill
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After 2 years of towing an R25 my opinion is that an enualizing hitch in not needed on a "real 3/4 ton" truck. However, if you are going to use a 1/2 ton or one of the trucks often compared to 3/4 ton trucks then an equalizing hitch should be considered. I love my F250 7.3 powerstroke. I love the 24 mpg I get (14 mpg towing my boat). I love the 6 speed HD manual tranmission. However, I bought my truck before I got the boat and have been on a few ramps where I would have loved for it to be 4wd.
I also have a SWB Ford F150. I would never even try to tow my boat with it.
I also have a SWB Ford F150. I would never even try to tow my boat with it.
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