Factory Tech DIY - Impeller Replacement video

Sam Bisset

Staff member
Factory Employee
Joined
Nov 10, 2014
Messages
307
Location
Arlington, WA
Fluid Motion Model
R-27 (Outboard)
Vessel Name
ZISSOU
Hey everyone,

we just posted the second episode in the DIY video series. In this episode, Kenny Marrs from the Ranger Tugs factory walks us through replacing an impeller on a R-27.

Both episodes are posted on our new video page at: RangerTugs.com/videos

We received a ton of great feedback on the first episode and will continue working down the list of episode suggestions.

Thanks everyone!

Sam
 
Changing the impeller on an R-27 with a Volvo appears to be considerably easier than changing the impeller on an older R-27 with a Yanmar. There is only one belt with a tensioner to be removed, so you avoid having to stretch off and on the second belt. It seems that Ranger has increased the size of the access plates to the front of the engine. The clearance area around the bolts for your wrench and hands is improved, and this helps, too. Nice job to the factory for the design improvements and to Kenny for another great video.
 
Great video! Thanks Kenny. I love it that the Factory is putting together these videos.

- Gini
 
Another great reason to own a Ranger Tug. The belt tensioner aspect on the Volvo is a nice feature. Enlarging the step opening for Yanmar access makes it a lot easier.
 
A very helpful video. What size is that socket?
 
Kenny... great DIY video for that R-27. Sure looks so much easier than what I had to do on my MY2010 R-25 Yanmar 4BY2-150 engine. It's a huge improvement for that R-27 over the MY2010 R-25.

What kind/brand of lubricant was used for the new impeller ?

What about the raw water thru-hull valve... was it open or closed during the replacement process ?

At the start you mentioned needing impeller, gasket and lubricant/grease. I did not see any mention of using the gasket later on... did I somehow miss this or is the gasket not needed ?
 
Quote Baz

What about the raw water thru-hull valve... was it open or closed during the process.

Walldog responds

If in the water it better be closed. If on trailer it does not matter.
 
Thanks Walldog/Herb presumably.... 😉

Kenny:

The video is a mere 3:09 long. What would be a good wall clock time estimate for performing this raw water impeller replacement for...

1) R-21 (for different model years, and engine type)
2) R-25 (for different model years, and engine type)
3) R-27 (for different model years, and engine type)
4) R-29 (for different model years, and engine type)
5) R-29S (for different model years, and engine type)
6) R-31 (for different model years, and engine type)

Same for Cutwater models ?

Replacing the raw water impeller as shown in the video for the specified Volvo engine does appear simple and straight forward and likely to take not much more than say 90 minutes.

However, for other and older Ranger models, this ease and time can be very different and I offer a counterpoint to this seemingly ease of replacing the raw water impeller.

Several people have posted their experiences about replacing their raw water impeller on older R-27s with the Yanmar engine, and it wasn't as simple and as straight forward as shown by your video. These people took longer than 90 minutes and was more like several hours to perform the raw water impeller replacement.

For me, I have a MY2010 R-25, and I will make no secret of it.... it took me 2 days to replace my raw water impeller. I had to stop after the first day because my back and sore bruised arms demanded it. Access to the raw water impeller on a MY2010 R-25 is extremely limited. On the model R-25, removing/replacing the impeller housing bolts is a real challenge as well, and placing the O-ring into the impeller housing groove was a nightmare for me.

Please note.... I'm not complaining here. I'm simply pointing out that the video (which is excellent) really does hide the amount of effort required for this 'replacement' that some of us Ranger Tug owners with older or different models have.
 
We have a MY 09' classic with the Cummins 150. First, change took about 3 hours as I was having to feel my way through the process. The long peg in this initial process was using needle nose pliers to remove old impeller, ugh.
I quickly purchased an impeller puller which made life much easier. Now it takes about 30-45 (tops 1 hour) minutes to change. In addition to the impeller puller I use an electrical tie to keep vanes all bent in correct position and liquid soap for a lubricant.
 
baz":3w12lvlm said:
Kenny:

The video is a mere 3:09 long. What would be a good wall clock time estimate for performing this raw water impeller replacement for...

1) R-21 (for different model years, and engine type)
2) R-25 (for different model years, and engine type)
3) R-27 (for different model years, and engine type)
4) R-29 (for different model years, and engine type)
5) R-29S (for different model years, and engine type)
6) R-31 (for different model years, and engine type)

Same for Cutwater models ?

Having read these forums for years (full disclosure, I've never changed an impeller) I'm going to venture a guess on Kenny's behalf. He's a lot busier than I am.

For every model year, and every engine type, for every boat model ever built by Fluid Motion, the approximate time required to change an impeller is 1-3 hours, depending on:

1) your level of experience
2) your height and weight
3) your degree of agility
4) your tool collection
5) whether or not you have help
6) if you hired a pro and are paying portal-to-portal, in which case it's more like 1-2 hours.

😉
 
Bruce:

No doubt your 6 items do influence the time it takes to replace the raw water impeller on any of the Ranger Tug models. I would add two more items to your list. They would be "Never having performed the replacement before" and specific to the R-25 (Classic), "The thickness and length of your arms". Knowing special tricks is invaluable for doing this replacement. Anybody never having replaced a raw water impeller before should review some of the postings in Tugnuts. This is especially true for an R-25 (Classic).

Your 1 to 3 hours is reasonable I believe, but only if the boat is at rest and not bobbing and rolling about in the open seas.

IMO, if you've never attempted to perform this maintenance chore before, you should add some additional time to Bruce's time estimate; 1 hour for research/review of what's entailed plus another 1 hour for your first attempt.

Some people recommend using Vaseline to help hold the O-ring in place in its groove even though vaseline is not recommended in lieu of the recommended glycerin lubricant that is part of the impeller kit. I tried using the supplied glycerin and found it was just too slippery and did in fact end up using vaseline. Having the O-ring properly inserted in its groove is paramount for avoiding water leaks after full assembly of the pump's housing assembly. A wash down with clean water is also recommended if any salt water oozes or drips out when removing the pulley and impeller shaft from the housing.

N.B. For the R-25 (Classic) Yanmar 4BY2-150 there are 4 bolts that hold the pulley assembly to the pump housing. If any of these bolts slip and fall into the bilge you should add another 15 minutes for each bolt lost to the bilge to your time estimates. The lower bolt is the trickiest and a mirror held on a long telescoping arm can be a real asset for accessing this bolt for removal and especially for installing. Removing and installing the 4 bolts has to be done using two arms/hands. One is used to work the socket wrench lever and the other arm has to go through the round floor hatch in front of the cabin step, and this is where a slender arm works best. Reinstalling the pulley belt correctly onto the pump's pulley and the crank shaft's pulley is also important and tricky to perform.

Here are a few Refs to postings made in this forum on this topic...

http://www.wired.com/2014/07/usb-security/

http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4893&p=35771&hilit=replacing#p35771

http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3732&hilit=replacing+raw

http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3716&p=27514&hilit=impeller+replacement#p27507
 
On my R-27 it takes me about 1.5 hours. That includes getting access taken care of and then buttoning things up. And that is with a helper.
 
knotflying":22n0wdos said:
On my R-27 it takes me about 1.5 hours. That includes getting access taken care of and then buttoning things up. And that is with a helper.

Mike's first attempt for his R-27 Yanmar 4BY2-180 engine can be viewed here http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3318&p=24345&hilit=impeller#p24345. Note he used a helper so their time should really be included. :lol:

Note that Jim Favors reports in this same post it took him 2.75 hrs to do the same raw water impeller replacement for the same R-27 Yanmar engine.
 
Barry,

Roam is a 2008 R-25 Classic with a Yanmar 110 HP. It does not have a generator. The sea water pump is gear-driven and on the side of the engine, as opposed to the belt-driven pumps on the front of the other engines. Access is a little awkward, requiring you to lay on top of the engine with your feet inside the cabin and head aft. I place a floor mat over the cabin door threshold for a bit of comfort as John Gray suggested. The space is tight, and it's necessary to reach forward with your right hand and do all of the work one-handed. It's possible to get an upside-down glimpse of the water pump by sticking your head down into the area forward of the muffler, but most of the work is done by feel. I don't use a mirror, but that might help. I believe that plumbing for a generator would make this more difficult.

My first impeller change took about an hour. I've done it about 6 times during Roam's 1500 engine hours. With this experience and the proper tools, I can do the whole job in 20 minutes, unassisted. This does not include the time to dig out and return the tools and parts.

Here's the procedure;

First, I band the new impeller with an electrical tie and let it soak in a cup of soapy water while I remove the old one. I place a plastic tray in the bilge under the pump. I remove the four cover bolts with a ratcheting screwdriver and drop them into the tray along with the flat metal pump cover. I thread the puller into the old impeller and drive the impeller out with a socket wrench. I move the puller to the new impeller and use it to push it in about three-quarters of the way. I slide the electrical tie off, and tap the impeller in gently the rest of the way using the side the socket wrench, then remove the puller. I usually don't change the gasket, but have found the new one can be held in place with a small dab of silicone. I put a 4" piece of Gorilla Tape on the cover and use it to hold the cover to the pump housing while I start the first two bolts, then remove the tape and finish installing and tightening the four bolts. I have extra bolts ready in case I drop one. Dropped bolts eventually find their way to the aft part of the bilge. All that's left to do is start the engine and check for leaks.

I've never yet had a leak, nor have I ever seen any damage to the used impeller blades, but I have on other boats (non- Ranger Tugs) so I consider this to be an important maintenance item.

I'd also like to note that my Yanmar manual says to remove and inspect the impeller every 250 hours. If it's OK, it does not need to be replaced until 1000 hours of service. NO way. Impellers inexpensive relative to the labor required, and I replace them with a fresh part each time. I do keep a couple of old ones as spares.

Rich
 
Rich: Thanks.... That 20 minutes IS impressive. 🙂
 
Rich,
At any time during the job, can you see the pump? It took me 4 hours the first time with a mirror. working with a mirror is dyslexic. At least for me anyway. The next time you do this job, how about recording it for the rest of us CLASSIC guys.
Randy
2007 R25
Sunshine
 
gerlots":3enlsnxl said:
Rich,
At any time during the job, can you see the pump? It took me 4 hours the first time with a mirror. working with a mirror is dyslexic. At least for me anyway. The next time you do this job, how about recording it for the rest of us CLASSIC guys.
Randy
2007 R25
Sunshine

Randy: When I used a mirror for replacing the impeller on MY2010 R-25 I actually borrowed :lol: my wife's magnifying mirror which really helped me install the hidden 4th bolt. Without the mirror I would have needed cameras in my finger tips. 😉 I also employed Walldog's advice for laying a towel down under the pump assembly area to catch any bolt that slipped away. This piece of advice saved me frustration and time when a bolt slipped off the socket... which it did several times. The paper trick that Mike also used for securing the 6mm bit into the bolt's head was also invaluable. All of these type 'tricks' can be obtained by reviewing posts for this subject in this forum.

Your 4 hours must have been tiring for you.
 
I did mine by myself in less than two hours. We have the Yanmar 180 in our 27. Mike Rizzo did a great step by step instruction write-up that was a big help. My biggest issue was rolling the belt back on after I changed the impeller, not really a one person job, but doable. The difference I noticed between the Yanmar and the Volvo in the R27 was the Yanmar has four 6mm hex head bolts and the Volvo has three. Also the Volvo has a belt tensioner the Yanmar doesn't, so we have to roll the belt on and off.
Great DIY videos Sam, keep them coming. I'd like to see one on how the solar panel works and how the engine charging system works.

Tim and Donna
Gratitude
 
Well, the 4 hours included two trips to the hardware store, once for a 6mm socket and once for bolts that were sacrificed to the bilge gods. I think this is a good case for that remote RV rear camera I've been wanting to buy.
RJM
R-25 Sunshine
 
Back
Top