Fiberglass cutting/toilet paper holder

it4llc

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2020
Messages
289
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FML28C17K920
Vessel Name
Gremlin
The toilet paper holder never worked quite right but was never at the top of the list to sort out. I finally got around to it this week and realized that the opening that was cut in the fiberglass is too small. As a result, the sides of the holder were squeezed too tight for the roll to sit properly. When I took out the holder, the roll fit fine and worked fine. I think I need to cut/grind out the sides of the opening some to allow for it to fit properly. My question is what is the best way to take off about a 1/8-1/4” on each side, between the screw holes? Thanks in advance.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/355mvt9zpi8p19r/AACunvA2dch5pwyFM-BQ5PQaa?dl=0
 
Severum88":3e5919rx said:
A Dremel and proper eye and respiratory protection.

Best answer.

You should have an N95 and OSHA safety glasses to cut fiberglass. If you don't have a lot of experience using a Dremel to cut fiberglass, and/or have sensitive pair of lungs, since this is a somewhat poorly ventilated space if you have a P100 respirator you might consider wearing it (fiberglass can put off fumes as you cut it) but possibly overkill.
 
We had exactly the same problem when we first bought the boat. I was at the Roche get together and one of the RT techs dropped by and fixed it. He used a coarse file and then a smooth file for the edges. Took about 20 minutes. There was obviously dust created but perhaps not so blown about as with a dremel. If I did it I would have a shop vac pulling the dust away as I worked.
 
I have made many cuts in fiber glass. Larger holes I use my Bosch jig saw. I apply shrink wrap tape to the bottom metal shoe so it does not scratch the gel coat. On smaller cuts or over sizing I use my Oscillating tool. I have a Craftsman. There are several different manufactures of theses. Mine has a vac attachment so it pulls most of the fiberglass dust away when cutting. I can make precision cuts with this and also clean up cuts like the ones that your photo shows. When I see cuts shown in the photo I think of quality control and craftsmanship. A good craftsman makes cuts that are covered up the same way is if they are not covered up. A good craftsman does all work with integrity. Who ever made that cutout needs to find a new occupation. He/she is not a craftsman!!
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... v7zhLNk0Yb
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ve got a good respirator from prior painting jobs, and will bring along a shop vac for dust collection. I will upgrade my eye protection (or maybe put on my scuba mask if it doesn’t fog up LOL). I’ve got a Drexel oscillating tool, but I think I may try it with the files first to try to limit the dust, using a shop vac as the dust collector. I’ll post results once it’s done…
 
Also, in case anyone else has this issue, for reference, here's the installation guide for this: https://www.dometic.com/assets/79/46/dometicdryroll_inm_4445102827_zxx_01_2019-04_67946.pdf. Until I read the guide, I didn't realize that it was attached using the 4 screws in the corner, because the screws are capped with small plastic disks which are hard to see, and impossible to pry off. I had to use some pliers to back off the screws from the inside, and then use the screws to push off the caps. The guide also showed how to remove the main mechanism so there is just the plastic mounting frame, allowing easier access to back out the screws.
 
Problem solved. I used a file on it and it took 5-10 mins max to file out enough extra to resolve the issue. It also made the opening look a lot better. I used the safety gear, as well as ran my mini shop vac will doing it. There was virtually no mess.
 
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