Force 10 Burners and Oven Won’t Light

[wborland@mac.com]

Its worked fine in the last summer and sat over the winter. I opened the Solenoid (at least the indicator says so) and the propane tank is full with 95 PSI and all ignitors are operational. Manual say there could be a air lock in the fuel line. Not sure how to check for that. When I do hit the Solenoid botton it turns green but I don’t hear a click that some have talked about. There is absolutely no propane flowing thru the oven or the both burners. Suggestions please.

 

[TMAX31]

Check the connection approximately 12 inches back fro the solenoid. You may have a couple of bad butt splices. I had the same problem a few months ago and replacing the butt splices did the trick.

 

[Ralf H]

Hi wborland,

I agree with TMAX. The first thing to do would be to check all electrical connections. Since you do not hear the solenoid when you activate it on the switch panel, that's a good indicator for an electrical problem. It could also be the leads on the panel, but check the leads as TMAX recommended and let us know what you find.

Cheers,

Ralf

 

[strangecrew]

Could also be the battery for the ignitor. It's a standard AA battery mounted behind and on the right side of the oven (on my R29 anyway). I had to replace mine surprisingly early after taking delivery last summer but I had the same symptoms and this did the trick.

 

[Florida_Cruiser]

If you do not hear the click, more than likely the solenoid has failed from sitting idle all winter. On my 2019 R29CB I have replaced the solenoid twice. Each time it was problem solved. The part is inexpensive and the repair was easy.

 

[Morelords]

Hi all,

I'm having the same issue on our 2020 R29. When I hit the solenoid button on the Xintex display unit, I get the green light for the solenoid activation, but I don't hear the solenoid valve open, and I get no LPG at the stove. I've already bought a replacement solenoid valve, as ours looks pretty corroded, but before I replace the valve I'm trying to do some troubleshooting to make sure it's indeed the valve.

The Xintex manual states that the nominal current draw for the solenoid valve is 55 mA @ 12V DC, and the Maximum Current Draw is 725 mA @ 9V DC. Using my clamp amp meter, I didn't seem to get any current draw through the solenoid, as measured at either of the two conductors going to the solenoid.

The Xintex manual states that a 2 amp fuse should be installed between the Display Unit and the solenoid valve. A note on page 7 of the manual states: "Units manufactured prior to January 01, 2018 do not include the 2A fuse. A dedicated 2A fuse or breaker should be used to power the solenoid."

I followed the Solenoid Valve-to-Display Unit wiring as best I could (most of the run is within split loom), and I didn't find an in-line fuse. Does anyone know if there is indeed a 2 amp fuse installed, and if so, where it is located?

If the 2 amp fuse does in fact exist, and if it is blown, wouldn't the "Fault" LED on the Display Unit be illuminated?

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

-Mike

 

[dbsea]

Hi Mike, according to the Manual for your R29, it looks like there's a 1a fuse called "LPG controller" with the fuse blocks in your mid-berth, and it's on the same one as the engine hatch lift. I'd check that, but from the sounds of it, you have a bad solenoid.

 

[Morelords]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the reply. Checking that 1 amp fuse is the first thing I did, and it’s good; I do have power at the display unit . Being that the Xintex manual I first downloaded is a version from early 2020 (the “current” version), I found the earlier version from 2017 which would probably apply to our boat’s system, since it was manufactured in 2019. The 2017 manual does not show a fuse between the display unit and the solenoid, only a ground. I am just going to cut the leads to the solenoid and test its continuity and resistance and operation directly from a 12 V source, as I also suspect that that is the culprit. I’ll report my findings.

-Mike