Galley Faucet Flow/Pressure

Jim and Jackie

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
144
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2930C010
Vessel Name
Chessie
Know this topic has been covered before. The water pressure at the galley sink faucet, in my 2010 Ranger 29, is low. The hot more than the cold. In both the head and the galley sinks removed the aerators. In the head there is a strong flow. Looked at the “manual” for the galley faucet. It’s an ITC Marine/RV faucet and there doesn’t appear to be any filters. Called ITC, they said it might have to be cleaned asked for any suggestions on disassembling and didn’t get any.

Has anyone taken this particular faucet apart? The drawings show an anti syphon device on the intakes (looks like a small joker valve.) And it looks like you can take the body apart without removing the whole faucet from the boat. Anyway looking for suggestions/advice.

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie
 
I saw another thread on here not long ago that mentioned that they found a fine screen on the actual water inlet tubes for the faucet. They ended up just removing it and that restored the flow.
 
On our R31, I had a similar issue and disconnected both of the water lines to the faucet and blew back through the faucet hose after cleaning all the screens. This abated the issue for now. I would love to be able to drain the fresh water tank completely, as i think it has some sort of sediment in it.

Al Sr.
 
Lots of places to check for grit or plastic shards and some boats are different.
Check the strainer at the pump
Check the strainer before the head where the hose connects to the head
There may be strainers where the hoses connect to the faucet leads
On the galley there is a small backflow preventer where the head hose connects to the center supply. Loosen the small Phillips screw enough so the hose slips off. There is a small plastic insert. Take that out and throw it away.
 
I saw another thread on here not long ago that mentioned that they found a fine screen on the actual water inlet tubes for the faucet. They ended up just removing it and that restored the flow.
Admiral S

Admiral S is correct.
Although it is a little tight back there under the sink, this is the solution.
Especially since the head faucet is working and there is a difference between the hot and cold water flow.
 
My kitchen sink is so slow and the 3 filters checked made no difference, while the head sink works fine. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
BaseCampAnne":2396a38q said:
My kitchen sink is so slow and the 3 filters checked made no difference, while the head sink works fine. Thanks for the suggestions.
Work backwards. Remove the hose from the faucet head and see how the water flows from the hose. If that is slow, turn off the pump, disconnect the water connection to the faucet tubing one at a time. Hold a pot under the supple and have someone turn on the pump. See if the water pumps well from there. If not you may have a clogged line or a kink somewhere. Just make sure there is no in line screen where the supply line and faucet tubing connect.
 
BaseCampAnne":2k1y8a72 said:
My kitchen sink is so slow and the 3 filters checked made no difference, while the head sink works fine. Thanks for the suggestions.

Anne, you cannot just check the filter screen at the inlet to the hose for the faucet. You must remove it. To take the hose off, you need to loosen the screw that holds the hose to the fixture and slip off. Then you will need to pry the filter screen out of the hose end and discard it. I am sorry we did not have enough time when I was there to do that for you. It is not a hard job just in an awkward place.
 
I'm having a similar issue on my 2014 R25. The head/shower works fine but the sink is minimal. I have found a collection of black sludge at the pump strainer and I've removed the small screen filter from the galley faucet as well but to no avail. When I disconnect the faucet and run the hose with an open end the flow seems adequate but I think there's still a restriction somewhere. It seems that it doesn't take much to inhibit the flow. Any hidden restriction points I haven't seen yet?
 
The spray head does come apart as I recall, and can be cleaned.
Also, as I remember new fawcet spray heads are available and not too expensive. ~$30 maybe.
Lowes carries them.
 
I took a picture when I did this job on my Cutwater. Might help someone else who needs to do it. I found this post very useful.

The white plastic doo hickey next to the brass check valve is the gizmo you want to remove. Mine was totally clogged. Its easy to disconnect the flex hose from the faucet, you only need to undo the brass fitting by backing off the phillips head screw you see on the bottom there.

Where the brass valve connects to the flex hose, two small wrenches will take them apart.

I used some teflon tape when I reconnected the flex hose back to the brass valve. Don't forget the rubber gasket.

main.php


You could probably clean out the plastic piece with a compressed air, but as already noted, I don't think its necessary.
-martin
 
The doo hickey is the check valve.
Get rid of it.
The purpose is to protect the water supple from the outside world. That is to say.... If you don't have water pressure and drop the spray head into a sink of dirty water there is a possibility of siphoning dirty water back into the water supply/tank.

You've gotta eat a peck of dirt before you die.
 
Boat....2014 R-27 Classic

Problem~~~~No water flow from galley faucet, either hot or cold. Galley faucet worked last summer. Winterized by blowing out water lines with air.

How can I access the hose connections to the faucet and the anti syphon valve mentioned above?
Head faucet works fine. I Have cleaned/removed the spout aerator, still no flow.
Can the sink be removed? That would provide easy access to the hoses and access to remove the entire faucet if needed.
This boat seems to be built with no access to critical systems and components.

Any help will be much appreciated.
 
Did you remove the supply lines that connect to the faucet leads? Turn off water pump, disconnect lines, direct them to a pot and have someone turn on pump and see if water comes out. If it does not there may be screens at those connections that need to be cleaned or I would remove them. If water does then remove the single supply hose that comes from faucet to the spray head and remove check valve. This is done by feeling for small Phillips screw at connection. Loosen screw enough to be able to pop hose off. Check valve is in hose at that connection. Re-connect and then disconnect hose going into spray head and turn on faucet. If water is running out of there then check screen where hose connects to spray head.
 
I am still without an operational galley faucet. I cannot access the supply hose connections or the anti-siphon valve without removing the sink. I can see and and touch the hose connection but I cannon disconnect them.

Has anyone removed the sink? How is that done? It appears to be glued in with silicon seal.

The hose is connected to a hose barb with a clamp. The hose barb has a nut that may screw onto the male threads of the brass pipe that go up into the faucet. I do not see any way to turn that nut without twisting the brass tube. I do not see any flats for a back up wrench.

Why has Ranger built this boat with NO access to service items. I am becoming disheartened by the lack of access to critical components.
 
Larry, you do not have to remove the sink. The hose (the one that goes from the faucet body to the head, silver and flexible) is attached by a slip on fitting with an o-ring. Granted you can't see it but with a stubby Philips head you can reach up and feel for the screw and place the screwdriver on it and loosen it. You do not have to remove the screw all the way. Just enough so that you can pull the hose off. Once you remove the hose you can look inside and find the check valve and pluck it out.
 
knotflying,

Thanks, I will try that tomorrow.
 
knotflying,

Thanks for your suggestion.

I was not able to loosen the retaining screw on the anti-siphon valve. I could get the screwdriver on it, but could not put enough torque on it.

I am going to call the factory for instructions on sink removal and re-install.

ON EDIT....... I called Ranger Tugs and spoke to Kenny. He advised that to remove the sink the silicon caulk has to be cut by running a blade between the sink and counter.
I will attempt this.
 
The galley sink faucet saga continues.........

I have removed the sink. I removed the anti-siphon valve and extracted the core. I checked for screens in the supply lines, none found. I tested the water flow before connecting the faucet hose. all good.

Then I connected the faucet hose and NO water comes out the faucet. I removed the aerator but still no joy.

Can the spray head be cleaned? Can the spray head be disassembled? Can the spray head and hose be replaced?

Thanks for all the suggestions.....
 
Hi Larry,

On mine there is a screen at the back of the faucet head where it attaches to the faucet hose. You have to get a good grip on the hose collar and it screws off from the head. Then if you look in the back of the head you will see the screen.

I hope this helps.

Curt
 
Back
Top