Galvanic Isolator Recommendation

H

HappyPlace

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Messages
145
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 SC
Hull Identification Number
FMLT3133A414
Vessel Name
Happy Place
Looking for a galvanic Isolator for our R31. Would like to get a system with good capacitors and is monitored.

Are these easy to install? Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Al Sr.
 
Happy place -

I installed a Gal iso on my R27 about 2 yrs ago. I also use a homemade 'guppy' - stainless wire to large anode clipped to bonding system at engine.
Have noticed very little galvanic or stray current issues - my zincs show little wastage from two year haulout period.
John Kelly
Miss Jilly
 
I installed the Promariner ProSafe FS30 on my R31-- which I purchased directly from Richard @ Ranger Tugs. This is listed on the R31 parts order form-- price was $214.97. I don't believe that this unit is monitored, but seems to be doing the job and was very easy to install. The hardest part was figuring out what size wire I needed to purchase to connect it (you need at least a couple of feet of extra wire to route it properly). See my photo album for a picture of the install under the rear cockpit seat: gallery2.php?g2_itemId=49792.
 
The hardest part was figuring out what size wire I needed to purchase to connect it
Click to expand...

What gauge wire did you use?
 
HappyPlace":12zbla4f said:
Looking for a galvanic Isolator for our R31. Would like to get a system with good capacitors and is monitored.

Are these easy to install? Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Al Sr.
Click to expand...

They are easily installed and will run into $200 to $300. I believe RT sells them so call Richard ( 253-839-5213) at Ranger Tugs parts Dept - parts@rangertugs.com.

BTW... I installed a ProMariner ProSafe FAILSAFE 30amp Galvanic Isolator on my R-25 (Classic) back in 2012. I was hoping it would reduce the underwater anode erosion I was experiencing. I have to say it made little difference at my marina. I'm in same marina today but with the new 2018 R-27/OB boat which has underwater anodes only the trim tabs. There's also just one on base of engine bracket that sits in water. I now have no intentions of adding a galvanic Isolator.
 
Quick question on the sacrificial guppy. when you say "clipped to bonding system at engine", what are clipping too? thanks
 
tdellaviola":1qh80rqd said:
Quick question on the sacrificial guppy. when you say "clipped to bonding system at engine", what are clipping too? thanks
Click to expand...

Best place to connect the fish (guppy) is to the negative terminal of a battery.
 
HappyPlace,

Since you are on the East Coast, I would guess your R31 might have air conditioning. For my R31S, which has air conditioning, I installed the ProMariner ProSafe FS Galvanic Isolator - 60 Amp. Notice, I installed the 60 Amp version, not the 30 Amp version, which I bought directly from Richard Becker at Ranger Tugs parts department. If you have air conditioning, the 60 Amp version is required on the R31 since it has two (2) 30 Amp inlets. This version works with the two (2) 30 Amp inlets, which the 30 Amp version does not. See this link for the correct version with its specs, if you have air conditioning:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1353701

Notice that the specs state: "...Or Dual 15's, 16's, 20's Or 30's"

You do not need monitoring, since the ProMariner ProSafe FS, if it fails, fails in a fail safe mode, meaning that the ground connection to shore remains intact. In the early days of galvanic isolators, there were problems with them failing in a mode that terminated the ground to shore, hence the need for monitoring. Even today, if you do not buy one that fails in a safe mode, then a monitor is required by ABYC standards.
 
tdellaviola":2cav9tp9 said:
Quick question on the sacrificial guppy. when you say "clipped to bonding system at engine", what are clipping too? thanks
Click to expand...

My guppy system - I use a large (R-4 ??) disc anode (two sides through bolted). Ran a long scrap piece of SS coax cable (VHF) around the anode bolt between the disc sides and soldered the ends in a tiny loop around the SS anode bolt. At the other end I used a good electric copper jaw clamp.

Any piece of metal (e.g. thru hull sea cocks) in the engine comp. that has the 8 gauge green bonding wire attached, goes to engine ground. Clip it there and put the anode part in the water. (remembering to retrieve it prior to engine start-- or it may wrap around the prop and/or bang on your hull)

You can also check for stray current entering your vessel by using the steps from this web site.
http://www.powerandmotoryacht.com

J Kelly
Miss Jilly
 
Thank you all for the detailed explanations!

Al Sr.
 
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