general R29 mantenance

[Jerold Geisenheimer]

First I would like to thank you guys/gals who helped me solve those technical problems that invariably plaque new boat owners. To recap, primeing the A/C units after haul outs is essential, the bilge pump constantly running was solved by eliminating the back flow preventer, the frquent loss of the prop anode was corrected by a large fender washer between the anode and fastener, battery drain was eliminated by disconnecting the negative ground during long periods of inactivity. Some of my own modifications: a flush out connection between strainer and intake valve, replacement of the plastic washdown hose outlet with a brass fitting and fitting a rubber sleve over the cutlass bearing to prevent splash. Finally, one question, staing of the interior running down the walls is becoming a more noticeable problem. Any easy solution? Thanks. Jerry Geisenheimer

 

[Stella Maris]

Jerry,
I am not quite sure I understand your question correctly. Are you having issues with staining on the walls? If so, do you have the "Monkey Fur" or the wood interior? If you have the "Monkey Fur" is the staining any where in the area of wood trim? If so, it is more than likely where teak oil was spilled, dripped, splattered, or in some other way gotten onto the fur. The oil is attracting dirt causing it to get darker over time. We too had this situation which anyone who know's me, would attest to the fact, it would drive me nuts.

After watching it get darker and darker, I finally bought a bottle of Woolite Oxy Deep spray cleaner. After following the directions, spray it on, let it soak, clean it off, a couple of times, all is now back to the original color with the exception of one spot. I can live with the one spot. I could not live with the streak though.

If you have the wood interior, I would suspect a leak where water is running down the wall. A whole different ballgame!

Hope this helps!

Would love to see a picture of the "Rubber Boot" on the cutless bearing! That splattering drives me nuts!

 

[wynn 'n anniedear]

Regarding "the bilge pump constantly running was solved by eliminating the back flow preventer":

Our R25 had the same problem, but we didn't eliminate the one way valve, it was simply installed backwards. Flipped it around and all is well.

 

[Jerold Geisenheimer]

The antisplatter boot consists of a curved rubber square attached in the rear by one large hose clamp. It remains stationery as the shaft turns. Hope this helps. Jerry

 

[Jerold Geisenheimer]

With regard to reversing the back flow valve to correct the constant running of bilge pump, be aware the valve can only work in one direction. If it was initially installed incorrectly, no water would come out ever at all. Jerry

 

[wynn 'n anniedear]

No water coming out ever at all was the problem. Water in the bilge caused the bilge pump to run. Once the water was pumped from the bilge, after correcting the reversed one way valve, the bilge pump stopped running.

 

[LADYBUG TOO]

With regard to the staining, I had the same problem and after a call to the factory I was directed to several possible places where water could get in. The port and starboard navigation lights proved to be one source that I fixed with some polysulfide caulk where the wires penetrate the mounting piece. Another source came through the screws holding the cover where the external electronics wires enter the top and the wires themselves. Then there was the VHF antennae mount. The gasket porvided on my 29 should be replaced with polysulfide caulk. I use the polysulfide because it is easier to remove later if need be. After getting these points sealed the dampness disappeared and I can solve the staining problem with one of the suggestions I saw above. This site helps even the most seasoned of boat owners. I have been on the water most of my 69 years and I lear something new every day. Tugnuts means that I can avoid some of the pain in the learning process. Pat, Ladybug Too

 

[jroyle]

Pat, Was the staining occurring on "Monkey Fur" or the teak paneling,
Thanks
JR

 

[LADYBUG TOO]

JR,

It was on the monkey fur and I forgot to mention my other "leak" source. It was the compass mount and after removing it and checking the seal it had a small place where water could get through. A little polysulfide and that problem was solved. I was suprised by the note I saw on the prop nut zinc. I keep a spare since Ladybug Too spends most of its time in the water and have yet to replace it. When I do the bottom this winter I will put the new zinc on and order another. I have yet to experience problems with the thruster zincs so anyone with info on their replacement, your input would be appreciated. Can it be done in the water? (I have a tank and hookah rig so I don't have to hold my breath.) Pat, Ladybug Too

 

[jroyle]

Thanks Pat, I agree, the prop nut washer between the zinc and nut sounds a little troublesome in the fact it may actually be insulating the zinc from the metal shaft to some degree..maybe?? Mine has been in the saltwater for 3 months now and is as good as new...trim tab zincs are eaten up a little bit but nothing to concern me. I have the hooka setup also, its great for bottom cleaning.
JR

 

[Jerold Geisenheimer]

OK. One additional note on the staining. I took your advce (Lady Bug) and removed the VHF antenae mount and a cup of water at least came pouring out into the cabin. I had to remove the headliner first to get acess to the nuts holding the mount in place, a 2 hour job removing the trim etc. I sealed the openings with high tech caulk and replaced mount and headliner. Quicker putting back then taking apart. A special thank you to Howard at Ranger for guidance and encouragement. I would strongly suggest all owners with a similar problem correct it now. Howard said the newer Ranger models will not have a similar problem. Jerry Geisenheimer