GROUND STRAP

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E

ED BRADY

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2008
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14
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2504G607
Ran into a starting problem last week where I had to use the combiner battery switch to get enough juice to start the engine. Since the starting battery had four seasons on them, I assumed it was the starting battery so I purchased and installed a new one. After insatallation the engine just barely started. I did not have time to run the boat for any length of time that day but felt confident that the next day I would be assisting our clubs race committee for the New England Regional Lightning Class Sailing Regatta. I got down to the club early to prepare the boat. I turned the battery switch on and tried starting the engine. Nothing but a clicking noise from the starter solinoid. Assumed again that the battery just needed a little extra juice so turned on the the house and combiner switch. No luck. Embarising situation. Spent the balance of the morning trying to trouble shoot the problem. No mechanics on duty in the area available. Pulled some trouble shooting tips off the Web last night and with the help of a engineer member we found that the braide grounding strap from the bonding bus to the engine block was so corroded that it fell a part upon touching it. just running a jumper cable from the buss to the block allowed to start immediately. What could have caused this corrision? What size strap do I need? Should the strap be tinned? Any other suggestions.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Ed Brady
R25 Hull # 4
ebrady6154@gmail.com
203-445-9112
 
I can say been there and done that almost exactly as you have described. I replaced a little more before I found the issue.
One note on the Yanmar powered tugs to just have your key in the panel and not a whole bunch of keys as that can wear out the switch. When it fails it will turn on the starter and trust me you will get towed in. My strap got hot then and failed later on. I put a push button in series with the key start so will not have that problem again.

Bob Heselberg in Eatonville Wa
 
"....I put a push button in series with the key start so will not have that problem again."

parallel?
 
I have the push button in series so I have to turn the key and push the button to crank the engine over. So if the switch fails it cannot engage the starter. My starter engaged while the engine was running. The strap got very hot and the charging system worked overtime to keep up with the drain of a fully engaged starter motor and well the belts did not fair good. This is when I found about the extra keys flopping around pulling the switch apart inside. I only had about 700 hours on the boat when this happened. The strap totally failed but its fixed and should not fail again.

Bob Heselberg in Eatonville Wa
 
Ah.... I get it...... I read it as a way to start the engine without using the key. I inserted a not (knot?) in my brain thinking the starter would not engage, hence requiring a tow. :shock:
 
I forgot to mention tinning the end. I did do that and it looked and worked great and then I used a punch to put the hole in the end. Bob H
 
Bob,
Are you ever going to bring the Lois H to the Rendezvous?????? She would really love to come...... Trust me, she told me so herself...... oh, that could have been the wine talking..... Regardless, we would love to have such a famous R-21 at the rendezvous. I am sure John and Laurie would even give you preference when assigning you a docking space....
 
Thanks for the offer. I have a hard time around people so am better lurking in the shadows eh.

Bob Heselberg
 
I'd just like to express my appreciation for this topic and add a few comments. My engine had failed to start a few times earlier this season with the symptoms described here. The starter solenoid would click rapidly for a few seconds when the key was turned but the motor didn't kick in.

After checking all the electrical levels (numerous times) I read this note and took a look at the grounding strap. It seemed to be intact if somewhat corroded, but when I followed the battery cable on the ground block back to the battery terminal I noticed that the insulator was pulled back slightly and there was a small amount of corrosion on the exposed wire. I gave a good yank on the cable and it popped right out of the terminal.

I got the engine to start using the jumper cables as described here. I then went to the chandlery and bought a replacement cable and grounding strap. I made sure the replacement is marine grade and not auto grade.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
 
As I read this thread on grounding straps I notice all the comments have been from R21 and R25 owners and we have an R27. I'm not near our boat, still winterish in Michigan and in storage, otherwise I'd check physically but do we have these same ground straps on the 27? If so have any R27 owners had the same problem as describe by everyone here? Thanks in advance for any information.

Jim
 
Jim,
Yes we do have a ground strap. I think that the R-27 may not be old enough yet to develop the typical corrosion issue. However with proper preventive maintenance it may be avoided. I put Corrosion Stop on everything and it is fairly effective. It penetrates the metal and will even work its way up a wire. This product is similar to Corrosion-X that is used on aircraft. It is atomized and sprayed on the interior of the wings, fuselage and empennage. It will penetrate the metal and definitely prevents corrosion from starting. It will not stop corrosion that has already started so it is important to apply early. You can pick up small spray cans in Napa. It isn’t cheap, about $25.00 for a spray can, but I think it is well worth it.
Mike Rizzo
 
Hi Jim,

On my R27 the ground is a 2G yellow cable that runs from the engine block to a ground bus bar inside the genset compartment. It has closed end terminal lugs covered with adhesive heat shrink tube. As long as the heat shrink remains intact there should be no path for moisture to get inside. The individual copper strands in the 2G cable are also tinned which should help reduce (but not eliminate) corrosion issues if moisture does penetrate. It is still a good idea to periodically inspect these (and other cables) and give a tug to detect any potential problems.

Howard
 
Thanks Mike and Howard for your prompt reply, now if you could do something about all this snow and cool weather we could get our Kismet out of storage and start our 2013 boating season.

Jim
 
HRowland":14vmct9n said:
Hi Jim,

On my R27 the ground is a 2G yellow cable that runs from the engine block to a ground bus bar inside the genset compartment. It has closed end terminal lugs covered with adhesive heat shrink tube. As long as the heat shrink remains intact there should be no path for moisture to get inside. The individual copper strands in the 2G cable are also tinned which should help reduce (but not eliminate) corrosion issues if moisture does penetrate. It is still a good idea to periodically inspect these (and other cables) and give a tug to detect any potential problems.

Howard
Click to expand...

On our R-25 (2010 model) the engine is grounded in a similar manner. Yesterday out of curiosity I leaned into the engine bay and gave that big yellow colored ground wire a tug... it was rock solid, but the tugging action almost caused me to take a head dive into the engine compartment... 😉 so to others, take care and hold onto something when you tug.... :lol:
 
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