Horn Switch

TortugaR31

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2020
Messages
16
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 SC
Vessel Name
Tortuga
The horn switch on the Blue Sea panel on the command bridge works intermittently, and when it doesn’t work I hear a single click in the horn unit itself and a sound I can only describe as like it wants to fire but just can’t, if that makes any sense. I looked beneath the switch and all of the cables appear to be intact. Does the switch need to be replaced or is this an electrical connection, i.e. loose wire.
 
From my experience with these horns and I’ve had to replace them twice on my 21, it’s either a bad connection in the wiring or the horns have started to go bad. I believe there’s a thread on this forum that goes over how to disassemble the horns to check the connection. I could never get mine to work so I just replaced them. The slope of the horns on the 21 make it real easy for water to enter and cause issues.
 
Hi Capt’nKarl. Thanks for your reply. The horn works perfectly from the lower helm which makes me think it’s a switch or wiring issue. I’m just not sure which.
 
I am also having issues with the horns on my 2010 Ranger 21EC. I have had an occasional toot but nothing steady. I opened and cleaned contacts and checked voltage at the connections on the back of each horn. Both get full voltage. I have messed with setting gap in points, but no luck. Points are not stuck shut. Taking apart and putting back together to test is not an easy quick task so I am tempted to replace. I have the Ongaro horns....replace with same? It would allow me to use same holes. The horns I have are their deluxe all stainless horns. They also have standard horn with stainless trumpets and not so stainless horn unit.

I have read that the horns should be aimed down at a significant angle to prevent water entering and corroding. If there is a way, one installer told me to angle down 45 degrees. That is not very practical on this vessel.
 
If you suspect the switch, you could try putting a jumper wire across the contacts (same gauge wire, or larger, as already connected). If that successfully engages the horn, it’s probably the switch. You could also measure the voltage drop across the switch when it is pushed. If anything other than zero, the switch contacts are bad. Or if you don’t want to be making noise, you could pull the wire off one of the switch contacts (the hot side is best) and check with an ohmmeter. Resistance across the contacts should be essentially zero.

John
 
I had a lot of horn problems with my 31CB. Believe wire run is too long for gauge and current, only had 8 volts at horn. Adjusted horn for less current and all OK now.
 
bill46":16n6ubq1 said:
I had a lot of horn problems with my 31CB. Believe wire run is too long for gauge and current, only had 8 volts at horn. Adjusted horn for less current and all OK now.

I am getting 12+ volts (very little drop) when I push horn button and check the two leads at the two horns.
I cleaned both sets of points and tried adjusting them both in and out with still no sound.

If switch was bad I don't imagine I would get 12 volts at the two horn. If points are filed down and adusted there does not seem a reason for them not to work.

Any other ideas before I order a new set of horns?

Thank you for the advice.

Harley
 
Harley, if your horn works perfectly and reliably from the main helm, it’s hard for me to imagine that the horn itself is the problem. Were the leads still connected to the horn when you measured the voltage? If you measured the voltage at the horn with the leads disconnected, a voltage drop across the switch contacts would not show up since there is virtually no current. I would still want to rule out the switch.

John
 
Wee Venture":3mcv4bcu said:
Harley, if your horn works perfectly and reliably from the main helm, it’s hard for me to imagine that the horn itself is the problem. Were the leads still connected to the horn when you measured the voltage? If you measured the voltage at the horn with the leads disconnected, a voltage drop across the switch contacts would not show up since there is virtually no current. I would still want to rule out the switch.

John

To clarify...I have not disconnected anything yet. I tested the voltage when depressing the helm switch at the back of the horns at the two contacts after removing the rear cup. I also tested voltage across the switch. Voltage is steady. The horn does not work from the main helm button. It did make several toots out of 30-40 tests of the switch but now nothing. Batteries are charged.
Voltage at the contacts on back of horn steady 12+ volts when I depress the switch at the helm.
I have cleaned the points and I have tried adjusting gap in and out.
 
Thanks for clarifying... So yeah, if it were me I would go shopping for a new horn at this point.

John
 
We were having issues with the horn on our 2018 R-31 CB. When we pressed the horn switch, we could hear a sound like some small movement was happening but nothing more. Opened the diaphragms of each, first one had mud in it - removed that, still no sound. The second had water in it (failed gasket). After we emptied it and dried the water the horn sounds fine. We need 2 new gaskets, glad it was a small repair.
 
Our update...after taking the horns apart several times and getting intermittent sounds we punted and bought a new set....installed in minutes and works perfectly. Wasted a lot of time on this project but at least I tried to fix the old one.
Cleaned points, verified full voltage, adjusted points...just nothing would get them to work consistently.
 
And one more thing....the new horns have a water drain (a tiny hole at the base of the back end) that is designed to drain water out.
 
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