How to winterize AC out of the water?

serpa4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2020
Messages
286
Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Sterndrive)
Hull Identification Number
FMLC3051D818
Vessel Name
DayLo
MMSI Number
368173760
I have a C30 with two AirCon units.
I also have a 2500/1850 portable generator. 20.8 amps starting power/15.4 amps running.
I see a Webasto AirCon 16,000 btu reverse cycel says: Locked rotor amps 70 / running amps 11. However, the Onan 5kw generator says only 41 amps. So, obviously the AC cannot pull 70 amps or the onboard generator wouldn't start it. It starts and runs fine on the Onan 5kw gen. So maybe it can run.
My assumption is that 2500 watt will not run it.

How do I suck antifreeze into the AirCon system when I cannot run the on-board generator sitting on a trailer?
Two options I see:
1) plug the boat into my portable 2500 generator and fill the raw water basket with antifreeze. But, will my 2500 generator run a 12,000 and 16,000 AirCon? I think maybe the 12,000, but not likely the 16,000.
2) Bypass the AirCon control panel by just tapping directing into the 115v / 2amp AC raw water pump to turn only it on and let it suck in the antifreeze from the strainer.
I can definitely just install a 115v AC plug "T" in the power supply for the raw water pump and just run it without the AC itself running.

What do you think? Can I run the raw water pump without the AirCon running and just fill the strainer or will it damage the AirCon system forcing antifreeze through without the A/C motor/blower running? Filling the strainer is what I did for the toilet and wash down pump, but those only require 12v pumps, not the A/C 115v that the AirCon uses.
 
The 70A is what the unit would pull if the compressor rotor locks. That’s listed for safety reasons. You will never see that under normal operating conditions. If the A/C units are similar to the ones on an R29, it comes with a Supco hard start capacitor. That helps reduce the electrical spike needed at start up to get the compressor started. I have an RV with a 15000 BTU a/c without the hard start capacitor and my 20A generator will start it but definitely struggles. Runs fine once started so I leave the temp low to keep the a/c compressor running. You should be fine on the 12,000 BTU unit and probably OK on the 16,000 BTU unit due to the capacitor. Remember that the spike occurs during start up so set the temp high on the heater so it keeps running the compressor.

That said, not sure if pump only runs when the compressor is running. I know my water pump cycles so I suspect it’s cycling in tune with the compressor but I’ve never paid that close attention to it.

Franco


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
knotflying":1i401k4t said:
Out of water. Open your sea cocks. Get a antifreeze hand pump. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-An...-Winterizing-Simple-and-Easier-36003/21803196. Make up a hose fitting to screw on end with clear rubber tube that will fit tight into thru-hull. Force fit into thru hull and punp RV antifreeze until it starts to run out of sea cock inlet under hull. You will be golden.

Thanks.
I assume...that means I can force antifreeze through the non-running raw water pump for the AC system? IF the toilet is not being flushed, then it would not also force through the toilet and if the deck wash down is not open, then it would not go through that either. So, it would only force through the AC system if it can pass through the pump.
Good idea. have you done this or is it a suggestion to try?
 
I have done it before. However, what you are describing is not how things should be plumbed. The air conditioning should have its own thru hull and strainer and is separate from the thru hull for the toilet and raw water pump and engine. If you want to do those you would shut the sea cock and pour antifreeze into the sea strainer. Then fist draw your toilet water. Add more antifreeze. Then draw up for your raw water pump. For your engine you should have one person at the helm and one at the strainer. As the person cranks the engine the other person keeps filling the strainer. You only need enough to have the antifreeze discharge from the exhaust outlet. DO NOT let the strainer run dry. Have a couple of gallons ready to pour if needed. You can get sophisticated and make a hose fitting with valve on a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket and then let the antifreeze drain into the strainer and control the flow with the valve.
 
I have done it before. However, what you are describing is not how things should be plumbed. The air conditioning should have its own thru hull and strainer and is separate from the thru hull for the toilet and raw water pump and engine. If you want to do those you would shut the sea cock and pour antifreeze into the sea strainer. Then fist draw your toilet water. Add more antifreeze. Then draw up for your raw water pump. For your engine you should have one person at the helm and one at the strainer. As the person cranks the engine the other person keeps filling the strainer. You only need enough to have the antifreeze discharge from the exhaust outlet. DO NOT let the strainer run dry. Have a couple of gallons ready to pour if needed. You can get sophisticated and make a hose fitting with valve on a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket and then let the antifreeze drain into the strainer and control the flow with the valve.
 
Back
Top