Inspection Checklist for Ranger 21 Classic

MartyMar

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2017
Messages
6
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C (Sterndrive)
Vessel Name
Spinacher
Can folks offer a list of inspection items to look at before buying a Ranger 21 Classic.
 
Things I would want to check...

Engine hours
Engine service records
Check raw water expels nicely at rear starboard outlet
Does engine exhaust smoke significantly ? Should not smoke beyond initial engine starting.
When was raw water impeller last replaced/checked ?
Underwater anodes condition (especially the bow thruster's if boat has one)
Keel drain plug in good condition ? Can it be extracted easily ?
Rudder steering connections in good order (no loose nuts/bolts etc)
Check anchor chain for rust and overall condition
Check all lines and fenders for damage
Hull condition
Overall cleanliness
Fabric condition
Engine hose conditions (check those close to moving belts for wear)
A sea trail is a must - with calm water, no significant wind, full tank of fuel, little stowed gear the boat should be at 8 to 10 kts with WOT. Put boat hard over to port and starboard several times to make sure rudder and cabling gets stressed and operate without issues.
Check the search light for proper operation
Try docking the boat several times and use bow thruster if it has one.
Engine is noisy at the higher RPMs but should purr nicely at 2800-3200 RPM (my experience is for the Volvo D3 30HP engine)
Check all electronics for proper operation
If boat has Autopilot check that it works correctly
Check the VHF radio operation
You really should also have the boat on the dry and for a reputable Marine Surveyor check the boat (cost for this might vary but for a R-21 could be around $300)
Ensure fresh water pump works by operating sink faucet and that water expels correctly
Pour some water into bilge to check that bilge pump operates automatically
Check for any serious hardware rusting
Check head for proper operation
Check the stove for proper operation
Look into the enclosure under the throttle lever to check wiring condition and for any obvious modifications
Ask owner for the boat's Log Book so you can see how the boat has been used.
How many owner has the boat had ?
Where was boat bought ?
Why is boat being sold ?
Has boat been registered for current year ?
Does boat come with a trailer, and if so it should be check carefully ?
Ask your boat Insurance Company what's their annual premium for the R-21 Classic
....
 
.. don't be daunted by the long list .. a number of the items weren't available on the Classic .. failing an engine log, ask for receipts for any work done .. check hours on the meter .. my hour meter had been faded out by the sun and could only be read in the evening when the light was fading .. ask if the packing gland and the steady bearing on the prop shaft had ever been replaced ..not a game changer if not, but good to know.. look for corrosion around the mixing elbow .. diesel should start almost immediately with minimal smoke if its in good shape and batteries and wiring are good .. you should get the boat on a trailer to have a look .. check the keel strip is intact, and no signs of damage .. check prop for dings or damage .. check zincs are recent .. I looked for quick engine start, tidy wiring under the engine box and in the cabin, clean battery contacts and clean bilge as signs of good maintenance .. some of the older Classics had wooden window frames and gunnel trim which should show good maintenance and care... fresh water operation or salt ?.. I still had little things that I missed , found after I put some hours on her, but generally happy .. if things look sloppy, dirty and generally unorganized, don't be afraid to walk away .. another will come along .. Good luck .. Rob
 
MartyMar":1oajeh0z said:
Can folks offer a list of inspection items to look at before buying a Ranger 21 Classic.

Hello Marty,

Barry and Rob have given you good advise.

The R21 is a very simple boat.

It uses a very simple (non-electronic, mechanically-controlled), naturally-aspirated diesel engine. As long as you or a surveyor recognize the major faults of the boat you are considering, and appropriately discount the price, you will be fine. OTOH, if you don't want a 'project' boat, then you must ensure, within reason, that the hull and engine are 'OK.'

The R21 has a solid fiberglass hull WITHOUT coring material, so water permeation from poorly maintained hull penetrations is not a worry with this particular model.

If you don't mind saying, how many hours are one the engine? Is it the original engine? The 'newest' an R21 could be is MY 2006...so you are talking about a boat that is AT LEAST 11 years old. The engine may be 'fine' and probably is if reasonable care has been taken. Remember, diesel engines utilize a high pressure fuel pump which is lubricated by diesel fuel and is easily damaged if the engine is 'run out' of fuel (not so much the case with gasoline engines). So, I'd ask in a 'round-a-bout' nonchalant manner if the boat has ever been 'run out' of fuel. This is not a deal breaker if it HAS been run dry, just something of which to be aware.

But, back to the 11+ Y/O boat...inspect the rubber components...ALL the hoses, fuel lines, etc are suspect if original...that stuff all degrades with time the same as a car. Squeeze the raw water and coolant ("fresh" water) hoses...do they feel springy-rubbery like good hose or are they brittle feeling? Again, not a deal breaker but realize you may need to replace that stuff if it hasn't been done in the last few years.

Barry suggests a WOT speed of 8-10Kn...that may or may not be realistic with an R21, I don't know for sure. I WOULD note the RPM at WOT, however. The engine should top out at approx 3600 +/- 200 would be fine. If she is in the water and has growth on the bottom, maybe 3200 rpm WOT would be OK. At any rate, note the 'feel' of the boat at it's top speed...any excessive vibration or 'unhealthy' grinding/rattling/whining? This is a small, probably 3 cylinder diesel so at idle (7-800 rpm) it vibrates a LOT, but that should disappear by 1200 rpm if not sooner. And as Barry said, water ejection from the exhaust should be vigorous at anything above idle....and water normally spurts out in 'batches.' By that I mean it will seem to 'pulsate' with a couple BIG gulps shooting out, followed by a small stream, then another big gulp or two, in repeating fashion; it is not a steady stream like from a garden hose.

Finally, I would look really closely at the exhaust elbow. On an engine that is 10+ years old it may be OK but likely has significant carbon build-up inside along with degradation of the metal by corrosion. Yanmar publishes a schedule for the replacement of this item, and personally, I would plan on replace it if it is 10 years old even with low engine hours; or at ANY age with >750 hours. The exhaust elbow is a "wear" item that is expected to wear out and need replacing. Given that it is part of the exhaust system an ALL raw water passes through it, you DO NOT want to wait until it fails...so replace it on a schedule like the rest of the engine maintenance. That's just me.

Let us know if you have other questions...these are GREAT boats!

/dave
 
I bought a 21 classic for all of the reasons mentioned about simplicity. I can fix anything on it. Unless the engine has bad internals, the externals, hoses, filters, and even alternators etc. are pretty cheap and easy for the owner to replace, which means relatively cheap for a mechanic to replace as well. My 2 cylinder yanmar will push the boat along at 7 mph at about 3000 rpm. Running these little diesels at WOT is just nuts and won't get you more than 7 mph or so because of the hull length and design on the classic. At two times the used price between a good used classic and a used 21EC, my classic serves me well, no sink, no autopilot, no head, etc. Hull speed limits things first, after 18 hp, there isn't much to gain. I like the 3 cylinder 30 hp in later 21's because they don't vibrate as much. My two cylinder seems to have several "quiet" sweet spots and others with more vibration. I run at one of about 3 sweet spots in RPM for the smoothest operation.
 
Thanks for all of the detailed advice. The 21 has a 3cyl Yanmar and has very low hours - which is my main concern - she has sat idle for a while. I will be using a surveyor and being able to do maintenance is something I am looking forward to.
 
.. mine had sat on a trailer for awhile .. first thing that I did was have all filters, oil and impellor changed .. wouldn't hurt to do the transmission box at the same time .. at least you can start your own log from a given point ..
 
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