insulating the engine cover [noise suppresion]

[notaclue]

hey nutters, i'm looking for ways to isolate my yanmar 110 engine noise. christina bee [hull 15] came with some sort of stick on insulation for the port and starboard sides. [sort of works] how much noise reduction can be gained by insulating the engine cover. there is precious little space between the top of the moter and the botom of the lid :? any tried and true or for that matter of the wall suggestions would be greatly appreciated,,, still no clue steve,,

 

[j&lgray]

Hi Steve,
I am very happy with our engine lid insulation project. We also have the 110 Yanmar and found a solution that worked for us. There is a photo in our album. The project cost about $80 and took about three hours to do. We are very happy with the result. For example, we used to detect a huge difference in sound from when the cabin door was open (lots of sound) to when it was closed. Now there is very little difference which makes running the tug with the cabin door open more appealing.

The second project I am only thinking off and that is working on sealing out the sound coming through the access panel that is in front of the cabin door. Simply, I am thinking replacing the two-part access panel with a one-piece unit made of Starboard that has the lead-lined sound damper that I used on the engine lid. A single unit without joints and gaps and using a very heavy duty sound absorption material may make an improvement.

This is a great thread to start and I am hoping for great ideas.

 

[Levitation]

Well, we went for a cruise yesterday and sound coming through the back wall of the cave and the door step was a topic of conversation...
My thoughts for the step are to add some foam on the engine side of the joint where the box forming the step meets the back wall of the cabin... And to add a rim of thin rubber tape to the top of the box where the lid rests on it...And for the lid, I am thinking that maybe a hanging a foam curtain from the underside of the lid will help muffle the sound waves leaking through the lid/box joints... And I need to look at the hinge the next time to the boat to figure what to do there for muffling...

For the back side of the cave I saw where someone had removed the upholstery, and added lead sheets and recovered it... I wonder it this could be done on the engine side instead?

Also, the step/lid does not stay up on its own - velcro or ? - Open to novel suggestions...

And for that matter, I was on the vee berth looking around when it occurred to me - how long will that pristine white fabric headliner stay that way? And, then what?

 

[tor2ga2]

When I lived in Seattle I had a trawler that I was able to get down to sailboat quiet using a lead core foam from a company in Ballard. I believe the company name was Hough and they had a large selection of sound deadening material. Lead core foam was really easy to work with and not as heavy as one would think.


terry
TORTUGATOO
'04 R21

 

[rt11002003]

I've heard of folks getting good results with a product called "SoundDown".

Gene

 

[baz]

I'm surprised Ranger has not chipped in on this discussion. Surely they've looked into what it takes to lessen the engine noise level in the cabin. maybe they have experimented and if so we can learn from that!

 

[Ram]

Off-thread, but "creative" ideas for holding the companionway step open while servicing the engine were solicited. I've addressed the issue reasonably well by using a small suction cup (bathroom shower hook thingy) that I stick onto the wall of the "cave" after opening the step. Simple, cheap, gets the job done.

 

[Bruce Moore]

Also, the step/lid does not stay up on its own - velcro or ? - Open to novel suggestions...

We use our telescoping boat hook. It's stored in the quarter berth and is typically headed for the cockpit after we check fluids prior to departure. All it takes is a quick twist to extend and prop up the hatch.

 

[rt11002003]

Those twist locks don't always work. I've got a couple in my garage that died.

Gene

 

[nixe]

I use a eye from a screen door hook and eye. Its screwed in the bulkhead on the starboard side. When the hatch is raised, it passes under the eye that is horonzatal. Then I rotate it 90o to a vertical position. i use a tapered tip from a silicone tube to turn the eyelet.

 

[sparky]

I use a cabinet magnet. The flat magnet is mounted to the teak wall very close to the exterior door, just above the step. The L-shaped metal part is screwed into the top of the step. Once properly lined up, it works like a charm. All I do is open the step and the magnets catch and hold the step open. Will get pics tomorrow.

 

[Levitation]

I like magnets... Do show your installation pics...

denny-o

 

[sparky]

Here are the pics as promised, using a two-piece cabinet door magnet to hold the step open. It took some work getting the parts lined up perfectly, but it works every time! In the first picture you can see the placement of the parts. The second picture is just before the step is opened all the way and catches on the magnet.

I have these pics in Starry Night's photo album under Modifications.

 

[Ram]

I like this idea. What would be a little less obtrusive and much easier to line up would be the kind of cabinet magnet in which there is a flat metal plate (that would go on the step) and the magnet itself mounts perpendicular to the surface (sort of like this:

wall ||
||%%%%
||%%%% magnet
||%##%
|| ~~~~~~ metal plate
|| ======================
|| step

I'm probably going to do that myself. Thanks for a great suggestion.