Isolator

[mytug]

I have a 25SC and want to install a shore power islolator. Has anyone done this an if so where did you install it?

Thanks John

 

[Lobo]

I put a galvanic isolator on Lobo (R-25). I got mine from Defender (www.defender.com) for $90 USA. It's about the size of a package of cigarettes (but less expensive and better for you). It was very easy to install. You remove the shore power connection and the isolator fits into the ground wire and reassemble. I mounted the isolator with a screw inside the electric panel behind the wheel. Including the figuring out the "what to do" it was a 15 minute job.

Installation help: www.yandina.com.

Dave
"Lobo"

 

[Tym]

I know you didn’t ask about an R-29, but I had a galvanic isolator added to our “Circle T” R-29 some months ago here in Los Angeles, along with some other electrical work I was having done at the time. I used a professional yacht service company who recommended and installed a “Unmonitored Porsafe Galvanic Isolator 30 AMP”. The charge for the part alone was 212.79 plus tax.

As there was no room in the electronics compartment for it, they rather cleverly installed it by going through the inside of the coat closet to the back of the wall holding the TV screen, but to the starboard side of the TV screen and DVD player – in fact within inches of where the shore power is plugged in on the exterior of the boat.

From the inside of the stateroom, it is not visible, takes away no otherwise usable storage, and needs no monitoring. Best of all, it works.

For total protection, I did later find it also necessary to supplement the existing boat electrical bonding system by adding a through hull leading to an exterior “Divers Dream” zinc on the transom, to which they connected all the current bonding wires, plus new ones for the swim step and the engine exhaust. Since our boat lives in the water full-time, I also had the non-bonded metal drain plug and screws removed, and glassed over.

The galvanic isolator plus the exterior bonding plate has made a huge difference. It might be because of the warmer water here in Southern California, or because the boat lives in the salt water full-time, but prior to this work we were not only burning through zincs very quickly, but, for just one example, our stainless steel swim step mounting screws had completely disintegrated after only ten months in the water.

I hope this information is useful.
Best Regards,

 

[Andrew Custis]

Galvanic Isolators are often forgotten about. The one thing to remember on purchasing the right galvanic isolator is to find one that is "fail safe." You can spend anywhere from $50 - $1000 depending on what you are trying to accomplish. I reccomend one that is fairly inexpensive and made by Pro Mariner. It is a model FS-30 Amp. This is a failsafe unit. Cost is around $200.00.

What happens with galvanic isolators over time is they fail. How do you know they failed without taking a volt meter to it? What happens to the ground circuit that runs through it when this happens? The ones that do not state "fail safe" or something like that can fail and cause your grounding circuit to stop at the isolator leaving your boat unprotected.

Depending on the location of your shore power inlet is going to limit you on the install. It is something that is quite easy to install and the simple isolators I have mentioned will just install inline to your shore power ground as close to the outlet as you can. Read the isolator instructions before you install it making sure the area you place it will be ok for that setup. Always welcome to call us at the factory and we would be happy to explain more if needed. 253-839-5213.

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