irwinengineering
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2018
- Messages
- 46
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
Hi,
We have been pretty lucky in the two years that we've had our 2011 R27. However, this year we had a clog of the electric head while anchored out at Santa Cruz Island, Ca. I'll spare the gory details, but the joker valve was very crusted with salty deposits and the opening was reduced to maybe half what it should have been.
After putting this all back together, I hit the flush button to test and nothing happened. As others on Tugnuts have found, the electrical connector for the control panel is positioned just below the floor at the access hole behind the head. The salt water that was released from the joker valve job flooded the connector and shorted it out. I flushed this with fresh water and the head worked again, success! But, I was now a bit paranoid about the future reliability of the head.
When we got back home, a quick search of Tugnuts showed that there was an upgrade to the early model drive gears. I contacted Jabsco and got the upgrade kit. While waiting for the kit to arrive, I pondered the control system failure. Since the toilet would be apart anyway, I would install a bypass button so that I could directly control the evacuation pump without need for the electronics involved with the control panel.
The gear/belt upgrade kit was not a bad job, other than needing a very small bearing puller. If I did this again, I would take it to an alternator shop to have them pull the bearing and pulley. I ended up having to cut the plastic gear off in order to get my not-so-small bearing puller into position. This was also a good opportunity to take the pump housing apart to remove the salt build up in there.
With the pump back together and reinstalled, it was very simple to install a momentary switch for the pump. The switch was wired from the +12V input lead to the red wire on the pump motor (see photo in gallery). Now, if the control unit ever 'craps out' again, I can just reach for the eject button.
Brendan
We have been pretty lucky in the two years that we've had our 2011 R27. However, this year we had a clog of the electric head while anchored out at Santa Cruz Island, Ca. I'll spare the gory details, but the joker valve was very crusted with salty deposits and the opening was reduced to maybe half what it should have been.
After putting this all back together, I hit the flush button to test and nothing happened. As others on Tugnuts have found, the electrical connector for the control panel is positioned just below the floor at the access hole behind the head. The salt water that was released from the joker valve job flooded the connector and shorted it out. I flushed this with fresh water and the head worked again, success! But, I was now a bit paranoid about the future reliability of the head.
When we got back home, a quick search of Tugnuts showed that there was an upgrade to the early model drive gears. I contacted Jabsco and got the upgrade kit. While waiting for the kit to arrive, I pondered the control system failure. Since the toilet would be apart anyway, I would install a bypass button so that I could directly control the evacuation pump without need for the electronics involved with the control panel.
The gear/belt upgrade kit was not a bad job, other than needing a very small bearing puller. If I did this again, I would take it to an alternator shop to have them pull the bearing and pulley. I ended up having to cut the plastic gear off in order to get my not-so-small bearing puller into position. This was also a good opportunity to take the pump housing apart to remove the salt build up in there.
With the pump back together and reinstalled, it was very simple to install a momentary switch for the pump. The switch was wired from the +12V input lead to the red wire on the pump motor (see photo in gallery). Now, if the control unit ever 'craps out' again, I can just reach for the eject button.
Brendan