Keel plug

Capt’nKarl

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Messages
624
Fluid Motion Model
C-242 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2330I718
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Previous R-21EC
Vessel Name
DRAGONFLY
I'm very careful when I insert the keel plug to make sure it is just snug. Well, now I want to remove it and it won't budge. Lubricant, voodoo not a millimeter of movement. Inserted the plug making sure the threads were not crossed. Righty tightly. Now no lefty loosely. Any thoughts? It's soaking in deep crack lubricant right now. Haven't damaged the head of the nut too bad.

I tell myself I really don't need it since I store the boat on the trailer in a covered building. But I like things to work and I like to "back flush" the bilge from this opening

Any help?

frustrated in Florida
 
Not sure what tool you're using, but you might try extending it with a piece of pipe over the handle for more leverage.
 
This topic has been cover before. If you do a search you will find several posts covering the topic. That said, from what I recall some individuals have found it necessary to remove and replace the whole through hull fitting. A high level of torque on the plug may well damage the seal between the hull and the fitting flange or even ruin the mounting. For frozen pipe threads sometimes turning little tighter can free the threads. When installing the plug it should be snug but not torqued to your full strength.
 
We use that Marine rated never seize on our keel drain plug that has been recommended by others on this forum. Comes in handy for other items that might end up having seizures. :mrgreen:
 
You may have to remove the entire fitting. Not really a big deal, just three screws. My problem was it corroded into the fitting. It was never bonded either. When I replaced it, use bronze, I used one machine screw and went through the hull and then bonded it to the system. Before you reinstall clean the area well and sand a little. then apply some life seal and reattach. As Scuffy said, I use marine anti-seize since my re-install and so far so good.
 
It may sound counter intuitive but try to tighten it slightly and then try to remove it. It's an old plumber's trick that sometimes works wonders. Worked for me.

Pat
Ladybug, Too
 
What about using teflon tape to prevent seizing?
 
tlkenyon":1khv93a8 said:
What about using teflon tape to prevent seizing?

Not recommended. If your fitting is bonded as it should be, the teflon will isolate the plug from bonding.
 
Capt'nKarl":l2pcjt2q said:
I'm very careful when I insert the keel plug to make sure it is just snug. Well, now I want to remove it and it won't budge. Lubricant, voodoo not a millimeter of movement. Inserted the plug making sure the threads were not crossed. Righty tightly. Now no lefty loosely. Any thoughts? It's soaking in deep crack lubricant right now. Haven't damaged the head of the nut too bad.

Any help?

frustrated in Florida

Hello Karl,

How long has the now-stuck plug been in place?

dave
 
The plug was put in the morning of 4 March. I screwed the plug in with my fingers to make sure it wasn't cross threaded and then a SLIGHT snug with a crescent wrench right before we left on our outing. We returned on March 6th and I tried to remove it. Sometime in that time frame Hercules visited to tighten it up a little more. Yesterday, after the plug had soaked overnight in penetrating oil, I got out the torch and heated the housing around the plug hoping this would expand it a little. I used a 6 point socket (at this point I still had a square head on the plug) and a breaker bar with extension. Nice snug fit. I said a little prayer and applied pressure. First, lefty loosey--nada, then a little righty tighty--nada. Back again lefty loosey with even more force--nada. So, I stopped, cursed a little, shed a tear or two and then took swig of rum (can't work on a boat without rum). Knotflying had mentioned the whole plug housing is held in place with 3 screws. I remember seeing them glow when I was using the torch. Thinking, if the plug is stuck and I take it in and out all the time these 3 screws that have NEVER BEEN REMOVED will strip and then what will I do. But I'm a stubborn SOB and don't give up easy so I got my ratchet screwdriver with the square bit and went back in for battle. THANKS Knotflying!! Each screw came out with only the slightest effort. They're short, maybe 15mm in length and looked almost brand new. Once the screws were removed the housing with frozen plug just pulled off! Imagine that! There's some chalking material on the hull to seal the plug housing so I cleaned the area and covered the hole with duct tape. Now I can really put some thought into getting the plug out! Thanks to everyone who had ideas, thanks again Knotflying. Any thoughts on resealing the plug back on the hull? I know I'm going to get slightly longer screws to reattach the housing. I will ALWAYS, ALWAYS use an anti seize compound on the keel plug and I will ALWAYS, ALWAYS, use a little rum to help me get through my boat journeys.

CHEERS!!

Karl
 
My R21 Classic has a Nylon plug and o-ring for the keel plug. I don't know if that king of plug will work on the later boats, but it does insert and remove with little pain. And seals very well.
 
My R21 Classic also has the nylon plug, and I would like to have the same for my R-25sc. Anybody know where to get them. I have searched and searched....
 
Just a thought. What if the plug in the bronze fitting is brass and not bronze?
It could be causing electrolysis between the dissimilar metals resulting in corrosion at the threads. (Especially in Salt water)
On my older 21 the fitting is bronze and so is the plug. My plug requires an allen wrench to remove or tighten. This provides for a smooth flow of water past it. I use a long "T" handle wrench which allows me to remove it without having to crawl under the trailer.
Don
 
I redid the same set up on a C-Dory. I used 3M 4200 it worked fine. No leaks.
 
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