Launching 29 and 31

[arejay]

Launching 29 and 31s Has anyone had any issues, or problems travelling around to new ramps you have not used before or had to wait for a better tide. Interested to know some of the stories , and or chuckles .

 

[LADYBUG TOO]

The only problem I have had was the bunk carpet sticking to the hull paint. Had to power off the trailer and pulled some of the carpet off. Also, I bent the forward roller. I have removed the carpet and installed 7/8 in. thick Trex decking turned face down. The back side of the Trex is relatively soft so it won't skin up the hull. It is really slick so retrieve with caution and don't remove your bow strap until the boat is in the water when you launch. I also use Liquid Roller in a spray can to coat the bunks before retrieval.

Pat
Ladybug, Too

 

[knotflying]

I have an R-27, but I assume launching and retrieval is similar. I have found that every ramp is different and current, tides as well as ramp angle all interplay with one another. The important constant, in my opinion, is concrete long enough for my trailer, then appropriate docking after the launch. Everything else you can work around. I try to look at conditions via Google maps satalite view before I even get there.

 

[portlandtug25]

A 29 or 31 is a lot of boat for any ramp...a higher tide and a long, low angle ramp would help of course. I have 25 SC and launching has been pretty easy if I have another person to handle lines. However loading is another story . I can get the bow up to the roller when the trailer's in the water, but as soon as I pull up the ramp the boat rocks back to leave a 4-6'' gap.The factory rep, Kenny, says to move the truck forward and hit the brakes to skid the boat forward those last few inches. It seems like this puts a lot of strain on the truck and trailer to do this. I have stripped out one winch handle trying to close up those few inches. Would this Liquid Roller stuff on the carpeted bunks help? If so where do you get it? Any other suggestions ? Thanks

 

[knotflying]

Liquid rollers is available in Westmarine and also on Amazon. So far it it seems to work well for me.

 

[Hydraulicjump]

I used to have no trouble closing the gap by setting my electric over hydraulic trailer brakes at their highest setting, getting the trailer going in the ramp parking lot, then slamming on the brakes. There was no more stress from this than average SF Bay Area traffic. Then, I re carpeted the bunks and put a softer bottom paint on and couldn't get it to work. Liquid rollers did little for me because the fuzzy bunk carpet just soaked it up. Then I figured out how to solve the problem. The boat will rest fine on the trailer just six inches back from the stop (be sure to hook up the strap and the safety chain, tho). It makes the tongue light, but that's ok for a short drive. Living in a hilly area, I just found a nice, moderately steep incline, headed down it and put on the brakes hard at the bottom. Problem solved and the boat is in its proper place.

Launching with this fuzzy bunk carpet takes more oomph driving the boat off, too. Next time, smooth bunk carpet.

 

[Irish Mist]

I'm going to move the winch post forward 8 inche's next time then just slide it back to the boat after I get it out and re tighten the U bolts .... I'll let you know how it works out in November .. I tried the brakes and it didn't work but shifted a lot of stuff inside the boat. .. Also I strap the boat in 4 spots then also strap the ring the trailer winch hooks to down to the trailer tounge.. No movement at all up and down with the boat ..makes it a lot better on the road..

 

[Larrynbarb]

I bought from Cabellas or Bass Pro Shop, I forgot which, white Teflon-like pads and screwed them to the bunks. The pads are each about 4" wide by 48" long, predrilled and countersunk, with proper SS screws provided. I installed them the full length of each bunk. I can now easily crank my R25SC as far as I need to by myself. (I'm 74 and not a large person.) Obviously, it is critical to keep the safety chain and strap attached all the way down, and all the way up the ramp.

 

[Todd]

Why bother trying to slide the boat to the winch? Like the rest of you I load the boat to the winch post then once up the ramp there is a gap. I just leave it. I add a ratchet strap to tie the front of the boat down to the trailer and add a strap across the back of the boat and go. Has never moved. Adding the front tie down stops a lot of trailer flex and adds enough friction to the bunks so the boat has never moved. Look at most commercial moves, boats and equipment are just tied down to trailers, they don't usually even have winch posts on the trailers, never seen and excavator on a trailer behind a winch post. Tie it down and don't worry about it.

 

[Irish Mist]

Good point Todd I had mine in a spot just for the right tongue weight. I'll move it forward and leave it. When I got my trailer it had no post as the previous owner moved boats for a living and said it was not necessary, and a pain in the butt.

 

[Hydraulicjump]

You both are right on. The most valuable thing you can do is use a nice tight ratchet strap between the u-bolt on the stem, straight down to the trailer. First time I did this (thanks for the suggestion Tugnut site) it dramatically improved the behavior of the two wheel trailer which, as has been discussed widely on this site, is close to its maximum load.

The only reason I fret over getting the boat snug up against the stop once out of the water is getting the tongue weight right. Since I have shown that going down a steep hill will cause the boat to inch forward, I am stuck with keeping the post where it is.

The Teflon bunk covers sound like a terrific idea.

 

[Boatdreamer]

I find launching and retrieving our R27 is very easy to do if you take your time and survey the ramp before you do anything else. I do this a lot by myself. The key is to take your time and like Mike said, make sure you have enough concrete to sink the trailer. When launching, I make sure everything is done before backing down. I keep the safety chain and the winch strap attached. Then I tie a line to the center cleat and put fenders out. Next I tie off a spring line to a cleat on the dock. Now the chain and strap come off. Backing down and tapping the brakes is all it takes. The spring line will keep her along side the dock long enough for me to tie off the bow and stern lines. Retrieving is done by backing the trailer down. I use the thruster remote to keep the boat centered as I pull her up as far as I can. Now I tie off the bow and stern lines at the very end to the dock cleats just in case something goes wrong as I'm winching her up. Once the winch strap and the safety chair are attached, untie all the dock lines and pull her up the ramp. If I'm going a short distance, I use a heavy duty cargo strap on the bow to keep it from bouncing. If we are going a long distance, I'll move the winch stand forward about 6-8 inches, then, after loading, I"ll move it back so it's up against the bow. I have never used the hit-the-brake method and I never will as I believe It puts undue stress on the whole rig. I remember reading someone did that, and the boat slid right by the winch stand. I'm sure that would put some serious gouges in the gelcoat plus make it very hard to get back off the trailer. I think it took longer to write this than actually loading or unloading! BTW there are some really funny videos on youtube about this too!

Tim and Donna
Gratitude

 

[portlandtug25]

Thanks, all, for the suggestions. Maybe it's not as critical as I thought, getting it up snug. I'll just get it as close as I can to the roller and strap it down really tight. Thinking about it, 4-5" on an object 25 feet long probably doesn't affect the balance or tongue weight significantly. I have one of those oversized double axle trailers, originally for a Cutwater and reconfigured for the R25.