Lewmar 1000 Windless

J

Jim and Jackie

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
143
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2930C010
Vessel Name
Chessie
Our windless decided not to work today. The main circuit breaker is ok. The manual shows a 3amp fuse in line with both the foot and dashboard switches. Where is it located?

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie
 
I had a similar problem where the down dash button did not work. I found the terminal behind the dash with one of the wires removed from its connection. I believe the fuses are also located in that area.
 
Still looking to find the 3 amp fuse from the contractor to the foot switches and the rocker switch. Have verified that the contractor has 12v. Will try to pull the center connector from the rocker switch to see if there is connectivity between that and the connector. Trying to find things buried in all the wiring behind the dash ain’t any fun.

BTW I’m getting to old to manually pull up 50’ of chain and a Rocna 15. My shoulders and back are still reminding me.

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie
 
Ok problem solved. Found the fuse (auto motive) is was 5 amp not 3 amp. After I cut a wire tie it stood right out. Checked the fuse it was good. Put it back in and went to the windless to see if I could hear the solenoid kick in. The windless worked. Best guess it was corrosion. Pulled the fuse out and sprayed with corrosion block. And all seems well.

Jim Demerest
2010 R 29 Chessie
 
It only seemed to work for a little while. Now it won’t go up or down with either the rocker switch or foot switches. Have chased 12volts to the output of the contactor. My question is the windless motor connected directly to the contactor or is there an intermediate connection point near the motor?

Have been able to occasionally press either the rocker switch or the foot switches and the motor will pulse and then stop responding. Connection, bad motor …?

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie
 
Your issue could be a few things electrical that you have been chasing down. Since your boat is a classic it leads me to believe your windless is an older version as well. You could possibly have a large buildup of crud and such in the gears. A while back there was no gasket seal between the housing plate and the windless body and salt water intrusion caused a mess. A couple of us had to bite the bullet and replace the unit. Can you turn the unit freely manually? If so it could be a shot motor. Here is Lewmar's meager troubleshooting guide:

1.Anchor rode pays out independently while windlass is not in use.
• This problem is a result of not securing the anchor rode combined with the gypsy drive cap being
slack. Tighten the gypsy drive cap using the winch handle and always secure the anchor rode
independently of the windlass when not in use.
2.Failure to operate or sluggish operation.
• The majority of these problems are electrical in nature. It is essential that the proper voltage be
maintained. The proper voltage on a 12 Volt system is 13.5 Volts, constant low voltage will damage
motor.
Ensure electrical cable size is large enough to handle the current draw and keep voltage drop within
acceptable limits.
• Check control switches, connections, battery condition, isolator switch, fuse and motor for
operation failure.
3.Failure to operate.
• Is there a voltage at the input terminals to the contactor and switches. Check the circuit breaker/
isolator switch and any fuses.
• Operate the switch. Is there voltage at the positive switch terminal on the solenoid. If not, the switch
(or its wiring), is difective.
• Keep the switch activated. Is there voltage at the main output terminal on the contactor. If not check
the contactor coil ground circuit. If okay, replace the contactor.
• Check the voltage at the motor. If voltage of at least 12.5 volts is present and the motor does not
operate, the motor is defective.
8
 
It started when we went to drop the anchor and nothing worked. Manually dropped and retrieved the anchor (50’ of chain and a Rocna 15). Checked the main circuit breaker it was ok. Back at the slip found the fuse to the rocker switch and foot switches. Fused checked good. Exercised the foot switches and the windless appeared to work. Didn’t drop the anchor just a little down and up. Sprayed the fuse holder with CRC. Before leaving last Saturday checked again it responded to the down switch and then died. Since then checked the voltage at the input to the contactor at the input to the rocker switch and at the out put of the contactor. Plugged in all check at 13.24. The rear of the contactor has two cables one red and one yellow going to the motor. Now trying to find out where those cables connect to the windless motor to see if there is voltage there.

Have not opened the windless. Manually it seems to work. I have it serviced each spring and up to this point it’s worked well.

Just before the failure the starter motor was replaced in the generator and the tech turned off all of the main switches which I don’t normally do. And one other problem the engine hatch (which worked before we left the slip) wouldn’t work. Ours is electric not hydraulic. Had to reset the circuit breaker and it has work since. Don’t know if this is related but since it the shut down of all the switches was the last thing…also, lost a jar of mayonnaise the was in the refrigerator.

Jim Demerest 2010 R29 Chessie

Physically I’m not what I used to be and have a hard time crawling around this tug. So I’m trying to get some direction as where to look for the connection between the contactor and the windless. I can’t get down and into the chain/roper locker.
 
try piercing the wires that go to the windless with a probe as someone engages the up or down switch and see if you get a voltage reading. If you do and it is good voltage then I would say it is a motor issue.
 
My Lewmar pro sport windlass stopped working after the boat was sitting on my trailer for several weeks. I used the manual wrench to free up the chain and then used the chain to spin the motor back and forth. It worked after that. I don't know what the problem with the motor was - and will stay happily ignorant on that - until the next time.
 
Have you cleaned all the electrical connections in the circuit? That’s the first thing I would do; from battery, to switch(es), to windlass, and back to a good ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It looks like the motor is bad. Have 12v to the anchor locker. The windless itself looks good so are trying to get a motor from Lewmar. Where the cables for the contactor enter the anchor locker there doesn’t seem to be any slack. Cut the red and black wires from the windless. Will connect the new motor with butt connectors and shrink tubing.

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie
 
Please keep us posted on the outcome. It's always educational for those that are DIYers.
I feel your pain when working on these boats. Just had my second back surgery and second shoulder surgery a few months before that. My wife always tells me, " you're not getting any younger just hire someone ", but there is a special feeling when you finally figure it out and it works!
Good luck with the new motor!

Terry
 
I am not sure why the older lewmar windless seemed to not have a gasket between the side plate and the body. The newer ones do. If yours has no gasket ether make one up, or at the least, use Permatex to accomplish a seal.
 
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