Lewmar 1000 wiring at the unit

[racurry@unb.ca]

Hi. I have to replace my Lewmar 1000. Its wiring is AWG 6 or 4 (it is unmarked) and on the boat, the factory has connected this to its battery grade 600 volt FT-1 or AWM I A/B which is a big difference. What is the connector that is used - what do I need to find and buy?

 

[Brian John]

Just replaced mine I used #10 AWG bare crimp butt splices and used heat shrink. I do not like pre-insulated butt splices as you cannot visually verify the crimp. Leave some slack for future replacements and use cable ties to secure.

Additionally, if you are not using ratchet crimpers, I would recommend placing the split in the tool face down in the crimper so you get a more secure crimp. With the connector face up the crimp may not catch both sides of the crimp connector.

 

[racurry@unb.ca]

Thank you, Brian. I can see the #10 will fit the Lewmar wires, but that doesn't seem large enough for the boat's factory wires?

 

[Brian John]

I replaced the Lewmar on my R23 prior to sale, I'll look at the conductors on my R31 tomorrow and get back to you.

 

[Brian John]

On the 2022 R31 CB, the conductors are#10 AWG, I would use #10 butt splices and adhesive-lined heat shrink. If the conductor from the new windlass is a smaller gauge bend the wire over and when crimped give it the pull test.

 

[racurry@unb.ca]

Thanks. The factory wires are not small enough for butt connectors, so I left the factory connection intact leaving about 6” of original #10 wire that I then crimped and heat sealed to the new wire of the same gauge. I put a second heat seal then electric tape on the join. Electricians will be cringing but there was no other solution. Overall it not a good design for wiring and placement of the wires which are so close to chain and rode. One of a “few” issues I have with the boat designers.