Lewmar Windlass Foot Switch Replacement

CaspersCruiser

Well-known member
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
868
Fluid Motion Model
R-27 Classic
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2709G112
Vessel Name
Cookie
MMSI Number
368203460
A couple months ago, the UP foot switch for the Lewmar Pro Series 700 Windlass on my 2012 R27 failed to the ON position while I was away from the boat. The windlass was not in use. I discovered it when I turned on the thruster battery switch during departure preparation and the windlass ran uncommanded.

The windlass foot switches, apparently original, were part number 69000346. That part number was phased out in 2014 and superseded by the SX foot switch part numbers 68001030 (stainless) or 68001031 (plastic). The SX switches have the exact same mounting footprint as the the original foot switches.

It appears that the SX switches have been superseded in the last year or so by the CHSX switches and they DO NOT have the same footprint. It is about 1/3 larger requiring a bigger mounting hole in the deck.

There are other switches available, but they require a contactor or control box and the the switches have specific part numbers for UP or DOWN operation. The SX and CHSX switches are not direction specific.

I was able to find the original footprint SX foot switch in stock at Defender Marine. It was the only place I could find that had it and it was the more expensive stainless version. After installation, I’m glad I got the stainless version because it looks great and matches the windlass.

The wiring to the original foot switches was extremely tight with no apparent slack. I took down the port side headliner panel in the cuddy to see where the foot switch wiring traveled and discovered a generous service loop of wiring for the foot switches. I was able to pull slack up through the foot switch mounting holes which made it easy to splice the new switch wiring to the existing wiring using heat shrink butt splices.

So the lessons here for folks owning older boats with the Lewmar Pro 700 Windlass:

1. Be prepared to create a larger mounting hole if you have to replace your windlass foot switches with the latest version
2. If the wiring to the foot switches seems to be impossibly tight, try pulling some up some slack that may exist outside the anchor locker. That may require taking down a cuddy panel to release slack from a service loop.
 
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10386&p=75084&hilit=lewmar+switches#p71613

This topic talks about the issue you experienced.

It's unfortunate that many wiring installations are installed with limited slack in the wire. I have found this in other electrical component installs in the boat. In some cases it is better to add an extra length of wire to the component using a heat shrink sealed butt connector. Multiple electrical splice connections in a circuit is not desirable but neither is a tight pull connection. It is a judgment call which is better. I prefer a extra connecters with slack in the wire.
 
I replaced both of mine on our 2012 R27 this year with
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F ... UTF8&psc=1
and was able to use one of the old screw holes and not make the wire hole any larger.. had had to pull the cuddy panel off and there was plenty of wire being held by zip ties..
 
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