Location of Head salt water pump

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allanrs74@gmail.com

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Mar 1, 2018
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109
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
Cherokee Rose
The head on my 2016 R-27 is not pumping salt water into the head bowl when you depress the button to flush the head. I would like to inspect the salt water feed pump but I have not been able to locate it. Is this pump located directly below the head? I've tried tracing lines on the starboard side with no joy.

Thanks,
Bob Allan
Annie M
 
If it is a Raritan toilet like ours in our 2014 R 27 the pump is attached to the toilet directly in back of the toilet. There is a plastic cover over it. Be sure to hold the button long enough for the water to flow. Also, of course, the Raw water thru hull valve needs to be open. You can also flush with fresh water by just running water from the sink.
 
Just spent fair number of hours on same problem with Raritan Sea-Era toilet on R27. Assuming no leaks, open seacock and no obvious blockage:

1) Check for air lock in inlet line. Close seacock and loosen "octopus" cover. Open seacock slightly allowing "Octopus" to overflow. Tighten cover. Open seacock completely and try toilet (hold switch for about 10 seconds).

2) Next check pump. Disconnect inlet line at toilet. Attach vinyl tube. Put the free end in a water bucket. I put bucket in engine compartment. Try toilet. If pump serviceable water will flow into toilet. If not, Raritan has rebuild kit.

3) Lastly check installed inlet line for kinks, bends, low spots, blockage etc. Easiest to start in engine compartment. FYI, inlet line goes forward under access cover in bottom of sink cabinet.
 
I just finished fixing the same problem. There was not really anything wrong with it and I did not have to use any rebuild kit. However I took the inlet part of the pump apart, which is at the rear of the macerate at the base of the head. There was some slime buildup which seemed to cause an air leek. After cleaning in fresh water and reassembly the pump was working as it used to.

The pump head has 4 pistons and two rubber flaps per piston. If any debris gets lodged between those valves you have an air leak and the pump will not prime. I was able to hear some air hissing sound briefly after I let go of the pump switch which was a pointer into that direction.

Some others recommended to fill the bowl to rim with water. This would have also closed the air leak and primed the pump and perhaps flushed the debris out. Did not work in my case thus the disassembly and cleaning and a working head again.

Perhaps it would make sense to attach a t-piece at the head inlet with a cap on top. That way a cleaning solution could be administered to the pump head to prevent slime buildup and avoid the disassembly.

Compared to other head repairs this was an easy one. It helps to have an articulating ratchet attachment as the lower screws of the pump are impossible to service without. There are several o-rings in there that stay in their grooves if some lubricant suitable for that location is applied before assembly. Or, even better, replace them while in there.
 
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