loss of steering on c28

[jswhal]

My steering suddenly got "lumpy" underway at 5 knots, then took many turns to get the rudder to move. Once on the lift, I added a couple of ounces of hydraulic fluid to the helm wheel to bring it up to the bottom of the fill hole. The next day it was down a little. It turns 4 turns to the left and right stops and feels normal and the rudder turns normally.

The aft steering station spins freely with no stops and the rudder doesn't move. I don't see any obvious leaks. The stern station fluid fill hole runs out when opened so the system seems full. Any ideas on what's going on?

 

[Rocky]

I would assume that there must be a leak, ad that the reason the steering didn't come entirely back to "normal" - aft helm and all is that the system still needs bled.

It sounds like you would have lost enough fluid to see the leak. Possibly fill it with as much oil as possible, and have some one turn the helm while you look at every connection under pressure. It is possible the oil is running to the bilge and and "invisible" before you see where it may be coming from.

If you have auto pilot, and no parts have been changed, you can do a fair job by yourself and the typical bleeding tube. But if there is still an issue, you may need to have it power bled with special tools.

I hope that helps.

Rocky

 

[Harry]

Could you have possibly had your auto pilot engaged? That will make your steering very lump and unresponsive. Just a thought. H

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[TBates]

Hello jswhal,

As others have mentioned the best place to start would be to check all of the connections to ensure you don't have a small leak somewhere. Places to look would be: connections on the back of each helm pump, T-fittings below aft station, auto-pilot pump connections, shadow drive fittings (this item is usually in the STBD cockpit locker or behind the main helm) and the connections on the hydraulic ram above the rudder. The next step would be to bleed the system to be sure there isn't any air present. We recommend a power bleeder, and you'll also want to be sure that you activate the auto-pilot pump and move the rudder using the auto-pilot pump to remove any air from the pump itself. One other note, on all of our boats it's important that only the helm pump cap at the highest station is removed. On your boat, the main helm is higher than the aft station, so this is where you would check the fluid level. Removing a 'lower' helm pump cap will always lose fluid, and could introduce air into the system.

Please feel free to send me an email to the address below with any follow-up questions or concerns.

Thank you,

-Tim

 

[JonR]

My 1st thought when reading the symptoms you described were very similar to those of Harry on the DeMarris - was your autopilot inadvertently left on? I only say this from 1st hand experience. Left my autopilot on obliviously while attempting to enter the marina. Symptoms were as you described. Obviously, if what you are describing happens every time you take the boat out, it's not an autopilot issue since autopilot resets.

 

[CaptT]

I had the same problem. I continued to add fluid and days latter found a puddle of fluid in the head. It seems the connections on the back of the helm were leaking. I've since had to remove all of the fittings, clean and replace with Loctite thread sealant on each connector/ fitting. So far, fingers crossed, no more issues.

 

[jswhal]

It turned out to be a leak from inside the aft helm hydraulic pump. It was running out the steering wheel shaft and down the wall. There is a shaft seal replacement but the nut was so corroded I could get it off. The corrosion was caused by the cup holder just to the left of the wheel leaking rain water onto the pump inside the compartment. It has a drain hole in the bottom, and I was told there should be a tube connecting that to the bilge. Ended up buying a new $500 pump. To bleed the system, you have to take the back seat out. The install manual says not to use any kind of Loctite or other sealant on the lines.

 

[CaptT]

Glad you found the problem! Although it always comes with a cost.....boats always do!
That's interesting, in regards to no thread sealant as the Ultraflex web site installation instructions say specifically to use only Loctite thread sealant? It even provides the two different part numbers to use??? They do specify no Teflon tape but recommends the Loctite? Oh well it's still working with no leaks so I'm happy! 😀

 

[CaptT]

ULTRAFLEX Installationandmaintenancemanual
page 20 of101- PUMP FOR HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS
E
N
G
LISH
3 Put some fitting sealant type Loctite 542 or Loctite
545 on the thread. Fit and screw manually the conical
fittings (3) until they are completely inserted; then
tighten them with a 7/16" open end wrench with a torque
of 17.6 Nm (156 lb·ft).
Do not use teflon tape or adhesive tape. Pay attention
to the sealant positioning: if it is inserted into the
system, it could block it and make it unusable.
WARNING
3
3
System fitting
Connection for additional station
System fittin

 

[jswhal]

Looks like they changed their mind, these instructions came with the pump

Screw the nuts completely on the corresponding
90° unions (3), Fit and screw the unions manually as
indicated in the picture until they are inserted
completely. Turn them until they are positioned
correctly with respect to the pipes by unscrewing them
no more than one revolution, then tighten the nuts
with a 11/16" Allen wrench with a torque of 17,6 Nm
(13 lb ft) until the washer touches the nut.

DO NOT USE teflon tape or adhesive tape.
DO NOT PUT any thread sealant like Loctite 542 or
similar products.

 

[Alpina]

Looks like they changed their mind, these instructions came with the pump

I’d call the company and ask the current recommendation unless you can date the two conflicting sources of info.

Franco


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[lastclipper]

I have a similar issue with a 2012 Ranger 29S. While underway, I felt something change... a click or pop felt through the wheel. Afterward, it took many more turns to achieve a result on the rudder. The fluid level at the wheel is full. The Autopilot says, "Searching for Autopilot." Any ideas would be appreciated. The Rudder "Rod?" "Actuator? behind the aux tank does move with the wheel input.