Man Overboard

C

CAPTCRUNCH

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 17, 2014
Messages
281
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Non-Fluid Motion Model
1975 CAL 229 AUX Sloop
Vessel Name
CAL:Cat's Meow/R-27:GADGET
MMSI Number
338167527
Anybody here have experience with the new (announced SEP 2017) FELL wireless MOB engine kill switch? If so, can I assume it was a good/successful experience. I do a lot of single-handing; one of my least happy scenarios would be me in the water watching Gadget (VolvoPenta D3) disappear over the horizon. Comments?
 
Looks like an interesting idea;

I'd still wear a PLB on my PFD to CYA.
 
Cool product. I like that up to 3 extra fobs can act as MOB alarms for passengers.
 
pretty sure the Garmin quatix does something similar. stops the boat when the bluethooth connection breaks
 
Cutwater28GG":3fh7vrz9 said:
pretty sure the Garmin quatix does something similar. stops the boat when the bluethooth connection breaks
Click to expand...
That Quatix sure does a ton of fancy stuff...IF your boat will talk to it. My 5212 is not on the compatible devices list. For those of us who have older boats and don't need all the bells and whistles, installing the hub for the wireless MOB device would be a cheaper and easier install.
 
ha! I have the quatix and also the 5212 but have never tried to set it up. sigh.
 
Here is the solution YukonRon. you can install this device for $149 and it will talk

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/124640#overview giving you 5212 compatibility.

Im not entirely sure of the value on a tug/cutwater for remote autopilot but it seems like tech geekery fun!
 
I read on West Marine's FAQs that the Fell Marine MOB will not work on an inboard diesel. Something about diesel engines having a fuel shut off. Can anyone expound on this?
 
I hope to install a MOB+ on my 2013 R27 VP D3 this weekend, so I'll be disappointed if West Marine's FAQ statement that it's for gasoline engines only is correct. I suspect somebody at WM is thinking of diesel engines like the old Yanmar on my Cal 229 that uses a mechanical fuel stop (like a car's choke knob, for us old guys) to shut down. The fact that the MOB+ installation instructions specific to Volvo Penta engines show what looks like the exact drive-by-wire setup in my boat makes me optimistic. I have an email request for clarification pending at FELL. I'll report back.
 
I found this on the Fell Marine Website:

Inboard Diesel

For newer diesel engines like Volvo Penta and Mercruiser, there is support for kill switch and connection can be made to the existing kill switch wires from the MOB+.

If your engine does not support a traditional lanyard with a mechanical shut-off switch then the MOB+ is not currently supported in your case.
 
Here's the response I got from FELL:

You are exactly right, this only applies to engines with mechanical stop solenoid the MOB+ will work prefectly fine on modern types such as Volvo Penta with the EVC controls and electronic start/stop. Volvo Penta actually offers a harness made to connect a traditional kill switch and this harness can also be used to connect the MOB+.

We are making contact with West Marine to correct this and specify that this will work on Volvo Penta engines of a newer date. Thank you for your comments.

The MOB+ fits nicely where the fresh water gauge was in the dash . I'll find another spot for that. Now I need to discover how to connect the MOB+ kill circuit without spending $60 for a new VP wiring harness.
 
Has anyone actually installed the MOB? I have a C28 with EVC E. It uses the E key. The Fell directions state to replace the cable between the Key Switch and the HCU (engine control box) with part no 21693202. I looked up the HCU and I don't see anything that resembles it. Anyone know where this thing is located?
 
UPS says my 21693202 cable/wiring harness will arrive today, so I should soon be able to confirm my belief that the "HCU" for my 2013 D-3 is the hand throttle, etc. assembly at the helm. Here's a photo of its bottom, including the plug/socket (labelled "X4") for wiring to the E-key: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO ... 0iDujYY8Z1
 
Thanks CAPTCRUNCH,
I pulled the throttle/gear lever assembly and you are correct, that is the HCU. I further explored behind the Nav panel and located the back of the E key panel. There is a wire bundle with a grey label and also the alarm buzzer. According to the Volvo Penta schematics the system should be set up with the 21693202 cable from the factory. However, I cannot locate the safety lanyard connection on mine so not sure if I have that cable installed. I will have to cut all the wire ties to see if it is buried somewhere in the cable bundle but that is not something I want to do. Its so tight back there I don't think Id be able to bundle them back together. I'm assuming you will replace the existing cable between the HCU and key panel with the new one. Please let me know how it goes. It will be worth the cost of a new cable vs untying the cable bundles. BTW I get a "404 error" when I click on the link for your photos.
 
The MOB+ install is almost finished. It does seem to require the 21693202 cable, which has a "lanyard" pigtail wired into it. A picture being worth 1000 words, I better learn how to post photos here. Please stand by.
 
I'm now the proud proprietor of the CAPTCRUNCH photo album, thanks to Mr. Moore. As the photos show or suggest, I started by pulling out whatever I could to gain access to the unknown route from the VP HCU to the back of the E-key. A bit like searching for the Northwest Passage. I tried pushing the cable through the cramped and congested space between the rear of the 12v/110v breaker panel and the outboard end of the rat's nest behind the dash. No luck from either direction...the square-ish plugs on the cable were a real hindrance. Of course, the last thing I tried turned out to be the successful one. By removing the switch panel (wipers, horn, etc.) from the dash, I could actually reach in that opening with my left hand and push the cable end far enough to grab it with my right hand reaching up from the breaker panel opening. In retrospect, I probably didn't need to remove the upholstered armrest. Things remain as shown while we are distracted by the approaching nor'easter forecast to sport 60+ knot gusts.

BTW, I'd like to hear from anybody who has removed the padded trim panel between the head of the starboard V-berth and the helm bulkhead without first cutting it into sections.

All the above pertains to my 2013 R27. Others' results may differ.
 
Thanks for the photos. Looks like some of my handy work. 🙂
 
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