Marginal trailer for C30?

serpa4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2020
Messages
286
Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Sterndrive)
Hull Identification Number
FMLC3051D818
Vessel Name
DayLo
MMSI Number
368173760
This past month, I had two flat tires. One I didn't know till pulling over for diesel and did my routine inspection. The other while parked; it blew like a grenade! So loud it was scary.
So my boat is 2018 C30 luxury sedan (ac/gen), trailer vin number says 2017. I figure my tires are about 3-4 years old, 2820 lbs each at 80psi/10ply for 16,980 capacity. Truck stop weight ticket says my boat and trailer weighs 16,020. Not much margin!
I just bought some 225/75/15 G range tires rated at 3530 lbs (110psi/14ply) each x 6 = 21,180 capacity. I got new rims rated for more weight and higher pressure also. I feel much better with 5,180 lbs reservice weight capacity and 40% more plies, 14 vs 10.
However, based on the vin number, my trailer has a "carry" capacity of 14,000 and the trailer weighs 2,400. So, my trailer is near max rating also since the boat math says my boat weighs 13,620 packed to go, but only 1/4 fuel and 3/4 water. If I fill with fuel, I'd be over the trailer rating. I still need a dinghy, motor, davits for 250 more lbs to come.
I "assume" my carrying capacity of the trailer is based on the axles limits.
Someone said I could subtract the tongue weight off the trailer's capacity since the axles are not supporting the tongue weight, the truck is. If so, I can remove about 800 lbs and put that on the truck. My trailer thus is carrying 12,820 of its rated 14,000. So, 1180 lbs under the rating.
I guess I can also take that 800 lbs of tongue off the trailer tires also right?

Is that a good enough safety margin, 1,180 lbs?
 
Higher safety margin is always better, obviously. Id be comfortable with those numbers and having just a little fuel on board I but that’s me.
We plan to retrieve our boat with 1/4 tank of fuel or less. We always pump out and dump fresh water before putting boat on the trailer.
I fill up the diesel on the boat just before launching. Fill up fresh water at the first dock. This process has worked well for us.
But it’s all about what you are comfortable doing.
 
There are many ways to look at what capacity trailer you should have. Most trailer manufactures have calculators for trailer capacity choice. The trailer is built and designed to handle a maximum weight. The trailers have 2 capacities GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight) This includes the weight of the trailer the maximum weight of the boat including all equipment, fuel, weight on board and the tongue weight. The second capacity is trailer capacity. The weight of the boat as equipped set on the trailer. Example: a 14000 lbs EZ load trailer is rated for a capacity of a 12000 lbs boat. The 14000 lbs rating is boat, trailer and tongue weight. Another EZ load trailer rating 17850 lbs GVWR and 15000 lbs capacity. I'm sure they have custom trailer capacities too.

Trailer tires are important. 3 to 4 years is max life expectancy for trailer tires. Many trailer manufactures match tires to the max capacity of the trailer. When you are right on the total capacity increasing tire capacity may put you in a good place. We all have our opinions on this. For me the best place to get your answers is by calling Ez loader give the trailer VIN # and then give the weight that you have posted to this thread. Explain your up-graded tires to them. Then ask will they recommend towing the boat as equipped on that trailer. If Ez loader gives you a thumbs up then if there is a incident or issue with towing you have their full backing.

When we purchased our small C26 which weighs considerably more than the advertised weight I spoke with the dealer about trailers. He recommended going with a higher capacity trailer than the Fluid Motion optional trailer. The dealer had found that the trailers were very close to the max capacity when the boat is equipped for cruising. We purchased a 3-axel trailer custom with a capacity 15000 and a 17500 GVWR. Our total trailer GVWR is 10500 lbs (500lbs +/- ) The only change I made to this trailer is removed the trailer tires that came with the trailer and installed Good year Endurance load range E.
 
In addition to the great advice from Brian, Vicki n Al I’d add just a couple of things. It is, and you may already be doing this, imperative that the trailer is level with ground by having the proper rise or drop in your hitch/ball setup. By doing so means less stress on the tires and therefore longer life as well as a safer trailering situation. Lastly I’ve made it a practice to move as many heavy items from the boat to the truck bed to reduce weight on the trailer. Things like tools, outboard dinghy engine, spare anchor, etc. while on long trailering trips. Again you may already do this but for those reading this post that do not, this does help.

Jim
 
serpa4":2u6gn82m said:
I figure my tires are about 3-4 years old...

Check the date code on the tires.

Even if they have been in service for 3-4 years they can be several years older.

Trailer tires are like bread, the fresher the better.
 
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