Mid ship Cleats
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rt11002003
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Mark, the Ranger Rep, at the Atlanta Boat Show suggested installing retractable cleats in the side of the hull.
The location of a midship cleat was a question I posed to him.
Gene
The location of a midship cleat was a question I posed to him.
Gene
j&lgray
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The Laurie Ann was built in June 2007 and does not have a true mid cleat but the forward cleat is just below the window. We are very happy with the location of this cleat and use for a spring line and for tying to a lock. We went through 32 lock and dams when we did 1,600 miles on the Mississippi and Tennessee Rivers plus the Tenn-Tom Waterway to Mobile Bay, Alabama.
For the spring line, we take a dedicated line from a dock-mounted cleat at the stern to the tug's forward cleat. For a bow spring line, we really like having a bow line that is long enough to run from the bow and is stored by cleating to the tug's stern cleat. We take that line and after cleating to the dock's bow cleat, we run it to the forward cleat.
Tying to a bollard on a lock with the Ranger 25 is another discussion. We learned our lessons from trial and error. If anyone wants to learn what we did, let us know.
For the spring line, we take a dedicated line from a dock-mounted cleat at the stern to the tug's forward cleat. For a bow spring line, we really like having a bow line that is long enough to run from the bow and is stored by cleating to the tug's stern cleat. We take that line and after cleating to the dock's bow cleat, we run it to the forward cleat.
Tying to a bollard on a lock with the Ranger 25 is another discussion. We learned our lessons from trial and error. If anyone wants to learn what we did, let us know.
Bruce Moore
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Me too. We've yet to lock through and, in anticipation of our first experience, would love to learn from yours.
Cheers
Cheers
j&lgray
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Tying to lock wall is actually fairly easy with the Ranger 25. With the exception of the lock wall in Ballard, Washington that separates Puget Sound from Lake Union, the lock walls on the Mississippi, Tennessee River and the Tenn-Tom Waterway are all the same, the bollards (large diameter yet short steel poles) float on a notch inside the lock wall. As the water rises or falls, the bollard stays alongside the boat.
The Ballard Lock in Seattle is so busy that no radio traffic is necessary with the lockmaster and it has a floating tie-up wall that is heavily staffed with Corps of Engineers employees. You tie up the stern first to a cleat, then tie up the bow to the nearest cleat. Stern first because this stops the boat from forward progress.
Anyway, for all the other locks call the lock master on the VHF radio with the name of their lock and dam and your boat's name when you can see the dam and the lock doors. Each lock and dam has a pre-determined radio frequency which is listed in the guidebooks and most charts. When they answer your call, you tell the lockmaster that you are a 25 foot recreational vessel asking to "lock up (go upstream)" or "lock down (go downstream)." They will tell you how long the wait will be. Recreational vessels are the third priority, government and commercial vessels are one and two, fisherman are fourth. Be prepared to wait. For very long waits, we waited 4 hours once, ask if you can tie to the lock wall outside the gates, otherwise just idling around is fine.
Be prepared before entering the lock with: A 50 foot, 1/2" line of twisted nylon-this is your line to tie to the bollard, have a loop in one end that is put around the cleat under the cabin window; have mega-fenders deployed on both sides and bow and stern, those cone types will not cut it because they are too narrow, we use the ball type fenders because they keep the boat the farthest away from the slimy and rough lock wall and the amount of surface area that is actually in contact with the boat's gel coat is minimal; and everyone, especially anyone in the cockpit must be wearing a personal floatation device, the lockmaster will often use the PA to call your attention to this necessity.
Enter the lock only when the green light (like a traffic light) is shown. Sometimes they tell you where and which side to tie to and sometimes it is completely up to you. If you are "locking up" the lock chamber will flood with water and raise the boat and the bollard up. In this event, choose one of the four corners of the lock because often the water floods the chamber through pipes in the middle. The turbulence caused by this flooding can be incredible. We learned the hard way to not tie up in the middle when locking up.
Locking down is a breeze, the water level slowly descends and is quite peaceful. You can tie up anywhere on the lock wall and have a nice trip.
For the Ranger, tying up to the starboard side of the boat is best because the pilot has the best view of the total operation. For all of our 33 locks, we did the starboard side of the boat. The 1/2" lock line was pre-set on the forward cleat and was pulled back and tied to the railing in the cockpit. Two ball fenders are down, bow and stern, idle up to the bollard and stop the boat putting the bollard at the cockpit and use the thrusters to keep it there. This keeps the crew member off of the narrow toe rail where bad things can happen while wrestling with a bollard. Also, keep the engine idling the whole time.
The cockpit crew member puts THREE wraps around the bollard in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE rotation. Three wraps keeps the line from slipping on the bollard and a counterclockwise rotation keeps the line away from the edge of the lock wall where it will rub, chafe and eventually break from the friction against the rough wall. (Now, if the Ranger is docked on the port side of the boat, the line will need to be wrap clockwise around the bollard to get the same protection.) Don't sweat this: dock on the starboard side, three counterclockwise wraps is the mantra.
Now the pilot has another job: reach through the window, grab the lock line that is still looped around the cleat and pull it, moving the bollard to the mid-point on the boat which is about where the galley window is. Then, everyone secures their line around their cleats, keeping the line tight so the boat does not more forward or back on the bollard.
DO NOT cleat and walk away from the line because, though it has never happened to us, these very old locks and bollards have been known to stick and jam as they are floating up or down. Boats have been pulled down underwater or hung in the air until a cleat was pulled out. In other words, always monitor the situation and be ready to quickly take the line off the cleat.
Have a nice trip in the lock, watch the line and the boat's placement against the lock wall. We use the thrusters as necessary for major adjustments. After the lock doors are open, wait for the sound and sign to leave. Release the lines, thruster away from the wall, leave the lock at idle speed and say Thank You to the lock master when you are clear.
Be prepared with the right equipment, talk through the event with everyone before doing it, no yelling, no jumping and then there are no problems.
The Ballard Lock in Seattle is so busy that no radio traffic is necessary with the lockmaster and it has a floating tie-up wall that is heavily staffed with Corps of Engineers employees. You tie up the stern first to a cleat, then tie up the bow to the nearest cleat. Stern first because this stops the boat from forward progress.
Anyway, for all the other locks call the lock master on the VHF radio with the name of their lock and dam and your boat's name when you can see the dam and the lock doors. Each lock and dam has a pre-determined radio frequency which is listed in the guidebooks and most charts. When they answer your call, you tell the lockmaster that you are a 25 foot recreational vessel asking to "lock up (go upstream)" or "lock down (go downstream)." They will tell you how long the wait will be. Recreational vessels are the third priority, government and commercial vessels are one and two, fisherman are fourth. Be prepared to wait. For very long waits, we waited 4 hours once, ask if you can tie to the lock wall outside the gates, otherwise just idling around is fine.
Be prepared before entering the lock with: A 50 foot, 1/2" line of twisted nylon-this is your line to tie to the bollard, have a loop in one end that is put around the cleat under the cabin window; have mega-fenders deployed on both sides and bow and stern, those cone types will not cut it because they are too narrow, we use the ball type fenders because they keep the boat the farthest away from the slimy and rough lock wall and the amount of surface area that is actually in contact with the boat's gel coat is minimal; and everyone, especially anyone in the cockpit must be wearing a personal floatation device, the lockmaster will often use the PA to call your attention to this necessity.
Enter the lock only when the green light (like a traffic light) is shown. Sometimes they tell you where and which side to tie to and sometimes it is completely up to you. If you are "locking up" the lock chamber will flood with water and raise the boat and the bollard up. In this event, choose one of the four corners of the lock because often the water floods the chamber through pipes in the middle. The turbulence caused by this flooding can be incredible. We learned the hard way to not tie up in the middle when locking up.
Locking down is a breeze, the water level slowly descends and is quite peaceful. You can tie up anywhere on the lock wall and have a nice trip.
For the Ranger, tying up to the starboard side of the boat is best because the pilot has the best view of the total operation. For all of our 33 locks, we did the starboard side of the boat. The 1/2" lock line was pre-set on the forward cleat and was pulled back and tied to the railing in the cockpit. Two ball fenders are down, bow and stern, idle up to the bollard and stop the boat putting the bollard at the cockpit and use the thrusters to keep it there. This keeps the crew member off of the narrow toe rail where bad things can happen while wrestling with a bollard. Also, keep the engine idling the whole time.
The cockpit crew member puts THREE wraps around the bollard in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE rotation. Three wraps keeps the line from slipping on the bollard and a counterclockwise rotation keeps the line away from the edge of the lock wall where it will rub, chafe and eventually break from the friction against the rough wall. (Now, if the Ranger is docked on the port side of the boat, the line will need to be wrap clockwise around the bollard to get the same protection.) Don't sweat this: dock on the starboard side, three counterclockwise wraps is the mantra.
Now the pilot has another job: reach through the window, grab the lock line that is still looped around the cleat and pull it, moving the bollard to the mid-point on the boat which is about where the galley window is. Then, everyone secures their line around their cleats, keeping the line tight so the boat does not more forward or back on the bollard.
DO NOT cleat and walk away from the line because, though it has never happened to us, these very old locks and bollards have been known to stick and jam as they are floating up or down. Boats have been pulled down underwater or hung in the air until a cleat was pulled out. In other words, always monitor the situation and be ready to quickly take the line off the cleat.
Have a nice trip in the lock, watch the line and the boat's placement against the lock wall. We use the thrusters as necessary for major adjustments. After the lock doors are open, wait for the sound and sign to leave. Release the lines, thruster away from the wall, leave the lock at idle speed and say Thank You to the lock master when you are clear.
Be prepared with the right equipment, talk through the event with everyone before doing it, no yelling, no jumping and then there are no problems.
commander bill
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I have "locked" numerous times on upper Tennessee River. Only thing I might add is that Lockmasters up here want the main engine shut off but since I have seen no need for engine and process can take 30 minutes or so that seemed OK. They also get upset if you operate radar in lock. My wife usually puts on a lifejacket and goes to bow well ahead of enteriong lock. If you stay in the cabin to operate the thrusters you do not need a lifejacket but once you exit the door it is required. We have found it best to use a line from bow and let most of the rear length of boat swing free (distance between bollards is too great to use 2 lines). I use stern thruster to keep stern even with side of lock. 1st mate then remains on bow until we exit lock and are well clear away from area. My only near-miss event was due to turbulance after lock gates were open & I had released my line.
Take what is said above about fenders very serious. The lock walls are hard & very rough, slimy concrete and will instantly damage your hull. Much larger fenders are required than normally used by many of you at your slips. I use 4 separate eight inch cylinder fenders but I agree round fenders would be better. Also, once used in the lock the fenders might want to be set aside for future lock use as grit can be imbeded into the fender material and later hurt your gelcoat.
Take what is said above about fenders very serious. The lock walls are hard & very rough, slimy concrete and will instantly damage your hull. Much larger fenders are required than normally used by many of you at your slips. I use 4 separate eight inch cylinder fenders but I agree round fenders would be better. Also, once used in the lock the fenders might want to be set aside for future lock use as grit can be imbeded into the fender material and later hurt your gelcoat.
colleysails
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I have a 32' sailboat and do a fair amount of singlehanded boating, including going thru locks. Prior to entering the lock I confirm with the dockmaster which side to use (for some reason I prefer port) and secure on that side 3-4 large fenders and a strong line on the midship cleat. I get the boat in position adjacent to the bollard, then move up the safe sidedecks, use a boat hook to pass the line around the bollard 2-3 times and secure it fairly snug, but not so tight that the fenders will scrape. I take a couple of wraps around the cleat and hold the free end in case I need to let it go quickly (I also keep a large rigging knife in a belt holster in case it needs to be cut free, and a handheld VHF in a holster in case I need to communicate with the dockmaster). I have found that system works better than using bow and stern lnes.
I am now ready to downsize to a late model R-25 and when I went to the Atlanta Boat Show last week, one thing I wanted to check out in person was ease of access to the (somewhat forward) midship cleat. Marc showed me that it could be easily reached thru the pilothouse window. While I would have preferred a pilothouse door like that on the R-29 (or the Nordic Tug 26 or the North Pacific 28), I believe the R-25 window access will work for me when singlehanding.
Now if any of you have a late model 25 you'd be interested in trading for a pristine fresh water Island Packet with less than 500 hrs on the engine, let's talk!
I am now ready to downsize to a late model R-25 and when I went to the Atlanta Boat Show last week, one thing I wanted to check out in person was ease of access to the (somewhat forward) midship cleat. Marc showed me that it could be easily reached thru the pilothouse window. While I would have preferred a pilothouse door like that on the R-29 (or the Nordic Tug 26 or the North Pacific 28), I believe the R-25 window access will work for me when singlehanding.
Now if any of you have a late model 25 you'd be interested in trading for a pristine fresh water Island Packet with less than 500 hrs on the engine, let's talk!