Mixing Battery AmpHours

jroyle

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
126
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Vessel Name
(2012) ouR-29
I have a generic question for the battery gurus out there. I have 6 110AH AGM batteries which came with the boat. I have the ProMariner Inverter/Charger. My 4 house batteries need replacing and I can find 4 100 AH AGM batteries for $120.00 less(each!) than the 110AH AGM. Can I mix the 110AH and the 100AH?. I do not understand the cost/AH differential? Seems like a very steep price for an extra 10AH.
 
If I'm understanding your question, you want to replace your house bank with 4 new 100 AH AGM batteries? That would be fine if they meet your overall amp hour requirements. You would be losing about 40 AH. Another number to consider when selecting batteries would be there RC number or reserve capacity. The RC rating is more accurate when the battery is used for high amp-draw devices such as inverters and windlasses. The AH rating gives a clearer picture of how long a battery can
carry lighter loads like powering lights and electronics. This could be e reason for the $120 price difference.
The AH rating tells you the number of amps that a new 12-volt battery at 80 degrees (F) can deliver, multiplied by the number of hours, without falling below 10.5 volts.
The RC rating is the number of minutes that a new, fully- charged 12-volt battery at 80 degrees (F) can carry a 25-amp load and maintain a minimum voltage of 10.5 volts.
For instance, a 100AH battery can deliver five amps for 20 hours because 5 x 20 = 100. The AH figure for most marine deep-cycle batteries is calculated at a 20-hour discharge rate, and this is important because the amount of amps a battery can produce is not strictly a linear measurement.
The higher the amp draw, the fewer total amps a battery can deliver. A 100AH battery can deliver five amps for 20 hours, but it cannot deliver 25 amps for four hours even though 25 x 4 also equals 100.
Connecting two banks with different capacities in parallel is technically fine since the batteries will be operating at the same voltage. Charge and discharge current will be shared, based on capacity. It is best if the batteries are of the same type and age. Broadly speaking, you can parallel batteries without problems, and the charge controller will look after them. Just make sure you give them plenty of charge. If the system tends to operate at less than a full state of charge, adding new batteries to old will probably just result in the old ones pulling the new ones down and everything getting sulphated.
 
It is not good to drain batteries. I look at the 100 ah battery supplying 50 ah to draw to 50% of the capacity. They should last longer that way.
 
Thanks snydzy , With the 5kw generator as a backup, my main concern is keeping the refrigerator running overnite on the hook. If the charger has no problem with the different AH batteries (same vendor, Universal Battery) then I am good. Most recently 4-110AH UB's wouldn't last the night with just the fridge running. Very disappointing even with the solar panel suppling 13+ amps during the day..I think its time for someone to figure out a better energy storage system other than batteries!!!
 
jroyle":3brietrk said:
Thanks snydzy , With the 5kw generator as a backup, my main concern is keeping the refrigerator running overnite on the hook. If the charger has no problem with the different AH batteries (same vendor, Universal Battery) then I am good. Most recently 4-110AH UB's wouldn't last the night with just the fridge running. Very disappointing even with the solar panel suppling 13+ amps during the day..I think its time for someone to figure out a better energy storage system other than batteries!!!

If four 110 AH batteries did not last the night with just the refrigerator running, then I think the issue may have been the batteries. There is no way they should be drawn down that much with just a refrigerator. The other issue could be a parasitic draw or you are leaving something else on as well. Make sure you rule that out because your new batteries won't like that draw down either.
 
If the fridge draws 5 AH and runs 50% of the time and 10 hours of night then you should only require 25 Ah each night. Your batteries should be able to handle that. Get a good DC clamp meter and check each line from the battery to determine where all the current is going. If there is no issue found then check the current going into the battery from the solar charger and then the house charger. If that looks good then check the voltage on each battery separately, not connected, one could be bad.
 
Are you also running the wine cooler? It draws a lot of power because it runs continuously. I found that turning off the wine cooler allowed me to run both galley fridge and a separate freezer overnight with no issues.....
 
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