Mooring Ball Pendant

Barry Cohen

YOLO at Boston Waterboat Marina
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
481
Fluid Motion Model
R-31 S
Hull Identification Number
FMLT3116K122
Non-Fluid Motion Model
2011 R-27 Classic (Traded Up)
Vessel Name
YOLO
MMSI Number
338451282
How are others running a mooring ball pendant up to the deck cleat?

Are you running the pendant through the chocks?

Does the angle seem to be too severe?

Any photos out there would be helpful.
 
Barry,
I use two mooring pick-ups. I run one through each chock and secure them to the larger (aft) cleat. I have not had any problems with the set up.
 
Great feedback John. That is what I was hoping and that is what I am going to go with.
 
I purchased a mooring pendant from https://dbropes.com/ . They are hand made to order and very reasonably priced. Outstanding quality and customer service. I highly recommend. I use mine on a mooring ball and while anchored with a Mantus Snubber Pendant and Mantus Mooring Snap Shackle.
 
Barry,
Been at the Willows moored there since 1985. On my Cutwater 28 the pendants do take a sharp turn from the chocks. Chafe gear has to be really close to the loop to sit in the chock. The current at the Willow is pretty strong and we all have float material on the pendants, otherwise they end up wrapping around the mooring ball. Wayne Hamilton from Hamilton Marine recommends having two pendants of different lengths, and that is for the Maine coast. Talk to Peter at Winter Island. He had shown me a new cleat someone local made for him so that the pendant does not take as sharp a turn.

Stuart
 
It’s interesting how much manufactures want for pendants, when I first purchased my R25 I was short on cash, so I purchased about 30’ of three strand rope. I learned how splice loops in the ends and created my own pendant. I thought about various knots used for climbing and decided I could adapt these to boating. I don’t worry about losing strength so much as long as I used knots that aren’t worse than 50%. At first, I tied a figure 8 knot (20-30% loss) in the end and clipped it on, but that’s a long reach to the buoy or a pain to lift the chain. So now there's no knot in the middle and when I catch the buoy, I simply thread it through the eye on the chain and then walk it forward to tie off on the bow cleat and running each side through each chock. The rope simply slides though the eye as the boat moves. It pretty much stays in the middle. I have been doing this for about 6 years with little to no wear on the rope and if there was, I’ll toss it and make a new one. And retrieval is a snap.

I also us this same rope for taking the tension off the windlass. Except here I tie a double prusik knot on the anchor rode and again bring the loops back to the main cleat running through both chocks. I may be wrong, but it has been working for me. In both cases the ropes have been under extreme strain due to wind with no issues.
 
We used a few mooring balls in the San Juan Islands the last two seasons and got some mooring ball rash on our bow from the mussels attached to the mooring ball.

Seems that with tidal shifts, the mooring ball will occasionally bump into the bow at slack water.

Anyone have advice on how to better tie off the ball to the boat so the boat won't make contact with the mooring ball?
 
Hi,
I watched a sailboat from Maine moored at a local island and he used about 6 small fenders and created a ring around the mooring ball to keep from getting the rash.

Stuart
 
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