My 2016 Ranger trawler does not back up well.

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tyronetpt

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Apr 4, 2021
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Fluid Motion Model
R-27 Classic
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2707F516
Vessel Name
Lit'l Sunflower
MMSI Number
RCPCCB22D
Is there anything I can do to get better response going in reverse? I have an inboard Volvo diesel .
 
You don't mention if your R27 is an outboard or diesel. If it is a diesel, there is almost no ability to steer in reverse using the wheel/rudder. My R31 has a slight tendency toward the port (left) side in reverse regardless of the direction of the rudder. There are two options for controlling the boat in reverse: Thrusters work well as long as wind and current aren't too crazy. Second method is to learn the "back and fill" method of close quarter turning. It takes a little practice but good to learn in case you lose a thruster or are in heavy weather/current.
 
I'd be surprised if you said it backed up WELL.

What with mastering prop-walk, winds, current, throttle control...
... Backing a single diesel is a skill that requires practice, practice, and then even more practice.
 
Hi tyronetpt,

As others have already mentioned, backing up a single screw inboard can be a bit of an art. Haifish and Jack both nailed it when they mentioned that practice is key. You'll learn in time to deal with issues of prop walk, speed under the keel, judging currents (you'd be surprised how strong a lot of currents are around marinas, etc. that you don't really notice other than your boat doesn't seem to want to cooperate). This is one reason why we made thrusters standard on our models, in order to help give a little extra edge. Keep working at it and you will notice your boat handling getting better the more you do it. Have to admit, mine did!

Cheers,

Ralf
 
I have been a sailor for forty years with a single screw diesel engines and always had some ability to use reverse to
back the boat. This 27 ranger has zero degree of accuracy when backing up. I took delivery of this vessel in May, and the few times I used this boat it has been extremely difficult backing into my slip while using the thrusters. On one occasion I lost use of the thrusters completely. The shear pin and the inline 150 fuse blew.
 
FWIW, although I've spent a lot of time on boats, our C28 is the first boat we've owned, and the first single inboard I've driven. At first I used the thrusters a LOT when docking. The stern thruster went out once while docking though, so I resolved to learning how to dock w/o the thrusters. It definitely took some practicing, and I still use the thrusters, but a lot lot less than I used to when docking. I almost always try to do it w/o thrusters and resort to the thrusters when I get really out of whack, or need a little fine tuning. From prior discussions, it sounds like the big issue is the small rudder relative to other boats, e.g,, sailboats or some of the working boats here on the Chesapeake. I will also second the advice to practice the bump and fill in some open water.
 
From a prior post on the same general issue:
I’ve often said that the rudder on our R-25 Classic isn’t a rudder, it’s just a popsicle stick. It’s just adequate at cruising speeds.
At docking speeds I typically count on the thrusters as much as the rudder for directional position when moving forward. Moving aft, the rudder is completely useless and it’s 100% throttle for speed and thrusters for directional control. And all that’s ok and works well for me.
 
Not unusual for a single screw boat to not back to starboard. The company I worked for had 3 diesel boats (55', 42', and 32') and each had their own technique to some degree to back. Some may not understand "back and fill," so for some perspective: if you need to back to starboard, you may have to pull forward with the rudder hard over to port for just a second or two; turn the wheel hard to starboard and give it a very short bit of reverse. This should cause the boat to start to rotate, front to port, rear to starboard. Many boats will eventually respond to some rear steering as water moves over the rudder... but, it won't happen right off the bat. It is best to take the boat into open water and practice the technique. You may have to make that forward to port, reverse to starboard steering movement a dozen times to get even 45º of rotation to starboard. You cannot expect to put the boat in reverse and steer it where you want to go.

We've all heard "Yabut, my sailboat had a much bigger rudder..." Sure, because you need more rudder to compensate for wind/heel. With practice, you should be able to get your Ranger to go where you want it to go... as long as you remember: forward to port, neutral, wheel hard over to starboard, short bit of reverse, then back to neutral. Practice it in open water with a couple throwable flotation cushions to back between. Neutral is your friend, make your steering changes in neutral. Definitely not the same as backing a car. You have a lot of boat sticking out of the water, so anticipate the wind/current and get it to work with you.

Think of it more like flying a hot air balloon vs an airplane. In a balloon, you give it some power (flame) and the balloon will react 20 to 30 seconds later... too much or too little will make a significant difference.
 
Great description Jim. I would just add that on our R-31 at least, I found that I didn’t need to keep cranking the wheel back and forth if the object was mainly to rotate. Actually one of the factory guys showed me this at our orientation and said I was working too hard.

So if I am turning the boat counter clockwise, I give it a burst of power forward with the wheel hard over to port. The prop wash hits the rudder and kicks the stern to starboard.Then, without moving the wheel, I shift to neutral for just a second or two and then give a short burst of reverse. This basically undoes any forward motion and allows the rotational motion to continue. There is no prop wash hitting the rudder in reverse, and there is not enough water flow over the rudder in reverse to make a significant difference. If and when I am gaining a bit of momentum in reverse and actually making way, then the rudder starts to make a difference and I turn the wheel in the direction I wish the stern to go (which, again, is not very useful so more back and fill is usually needed periodically).

John
 
Yes practice definitely helps as do some basic single screw turning techniques. Here is a YouTube video that visually shows the technique to use short bursts of power to kick the boat's bow or stern in the desired direction: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWs4PNQRZMI&t=15s

HTH, GF
 
Learning how to pivot the boat is the single biggest and most important skill for single screw boat captains. Other things matter but pivoting is the key for backing up. Once you learn how to pivot the boat you won't bother with thrusters.
Watch this, these guys are excellent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MCjrqNnwl0
Good luck and if I could do it (learning to pivot a single screw boat), anyone can! 😀
 
are the volvo penta engines right handed or left handed props? After watching these videos, I want to go practice my prop walking skills.
 
Our R-31 is right handed. I’m pretty confident all Ranger and Cutwater single engine boats are right handed. …which means the stern wants to walk to port when backing.

John
 
tyronetpt":7do4w22q said:
I have been a sailor for forty years with a single screw diesel engines and always had some ability to use reverse to back the boat.

As a long-time sailor as well, you can't compare the physics. Sailboat rudders are typically large spades in line with a deep keel. The combination (on a sailboat) creates physics that, while prop walk is a thing, gives you some control backing up. The deep keel really is key. If you've ever tried to back a sailboat with an adjustable keel, you'd know how much harder it is with keel up than with keel down (see if you can track down a Tanzer owner to ask them about this!).

You can read about it in seamanship books, and if you take a course in single-screw powerboat handling you will likely meet a number of ex-sailors who are equally befuddled.
 
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