Mysterious battery load

[PNWTX]

According to my Victron SmartShunt, after I turn house power off, I still have a drain of around 7W-11W on the house bank. I'm trying to find out what's drawing the power.

I went through both fuse panels, pulling them all one at a time, to see if I could identify...no luck.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thank you

 

[dbsea]

there may be a few things that are directly connected, bypassing the house switch. A few of these that I can think of might be, depending on your boats wiring:

Co2 sensors (mine used to be hardwired in my C30, but I switched them to battery)
Propane sensor and solenoid control
Bilge pump auto checks (depending on if you have the rule or Johnson pump, the rule does a check every so often by running for a few seconds, whereas the Johnson uses a sensor)
Bilge Alarm

 

[Submariner]

CO monitor
Bilge pump(s)
Stereo memory
Webasto heater controls.

The 24x7 fuses would need to be pulled, in addition to the house dc switch set to off to get to 0 watts.
There's also a calibration to be done on the BMV712 battery monitor. Purposely do the above so you know the watts are 0, then calibrate the BMV 712 to say "it's at zero watts".

 

[PNWTX]

CO monitor
Bilge pump(s)
Stereo memory
Webasto heater controls.

The 24x7 fuses would need to be pulled, in addition to the house dc switch set to off to get to 0 watts.
There's also a calibration to be done on the BMV712 battery monitor. Purposely do the above so you know the watts are 0, then calibrate the BMV 712 to say "it's at zero watts".

Ok, I think I'm tracking. I pulled all those fuses before but the watts being drawn did not drop. So, it's more a symptom of the SmarShunt needing to be zeroed out while all of those pulled, correct?

Thank you!

 

[DBBRanger]

You might try disconnecting one side of your shunt first so that you know for sure there is no current flowing before you calibrate it.

 

[dougxn]

CO monitor
Bilge pump(s)
Stereo memory
Webasto heater controls.

The 24x7 fuses would need to be pulled, in addition to the house dc switch set to off to get to 0 watts.
There's also a calibration to be done on the BMV712 battery monitor. Purposely do the above so you know the watts are 0, then calibrate the BMV 712 to say "it's at zero watts".

Ok, I think I'm tracking. I pulled all those fuses before but the watts being drawn did not drop. So, it's more a symptom of the SmarShunt needing to be zeroed out while all of those pulled, correct?

Thank you!

I think you need to find the watts being used before calibrating it. Calibration is only good after you have some knowns.

I am sure you did this, but make sure nothing is connected directly to the battery except the shunt.

And it isn’t in parallel/both or someone hasn’t got wired a something and by passed the fuse block[emoji2369]


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