Neutral Warning - Throttle/Trans Control?

PuffinStuff

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Messages
76
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Vessel Name
Puffin
Last year while cruising the Gulf Islands we came across another Tug, "Allotrope" and her Captain and I had a short discussion on how a third tugs owner had been befuddled by not being able to start their tug due to a warning being displayed stating the boat was not in neutral, even though the throttle was placed in the vertical position. Allotrope's Captain suggested there was a "button" or mechanism to correct this problem and that he'd show me where it was before we all departed our location, but we never got that chance.

A year later and I am starting to notice irregular "put in neutral" warnings on the chart plotter when attempting to start up. With minor adjustments to the throttle/transmission lever this is easily overcome, but it seems to suggest the connection points need adjusting in some way.

Does anyone have any advice or know of this mystical switch/button/lever that Allotrope described?

Thanks, Paul
Puffin 2012 R-29
 
I know how to fix it on a Cummins/Mercruiser, not on your boat. But in any case there should be a sensor on the gearbox. It may be as simple as cleaning the electrical contacts on the sensor.
 
Here's a jpg of the neutral safety switch on the Yanmar engine on our R-27.

neutralsw.jpg


The switch did go bad one day and wasn't able to start the engine, but was able to bypass the switch by jumpering with a short piece of wire, which got me back to port, although did not have the neutral safety on.

These switches can wear out, and are easily replaced.
 
The switch is very similar on the R-29 with the 6BY260 "Sport" engine. The replacement switches are much more robust and easily installed. IN an emergency you can jumper the switch but when you do be aware that it will start in gear so you need to make sure where the shifter is before you hit the starter.

Pat
Ladybug, Too
 
I admit to being a compulsive worrier about these things, but try to pair that compulsion with how to solve it. I looked at this switch on my boat. How, exactly, do you jump it with a piece of wire?

I have this vision of us in the Broughton Islands this summer and then this happens....honey, the boat won't start.

thx

Jeff
 
Hydraulicjump":2lx2nwwv said:
How, exactly, do you jump it with a piece of wire?

There are 2 wires that attach to the switch.

Remove them from the switch.

take a short length of wire and jump between the terminal ends of the 2 wires, wrap connections with electrical tape.

engine should start.

Be warned tho; there will be no neutral safety, and engine will start in gear.
 
Thanks! Easy to do.
 
This is the guy with the problem on Hydrotherapy. I am following the jumper idea. I did disconnect the switch by pulling the engine side of the connecting wires from the switch side. I attempted to connect them with electrical tape by taping the exposed male ends together. The boat still did not start but the solenoid did bump the starter shaft. That is when Andrew recommended cutting all power to the ECU or the screen itself by disconnecting the positive side of all battery terminals. I have six, but two start the engine, but witch? Have not followed power leads. Must be a way to disconnect behind helm at the ECU itself.
Anyone reset their ECU? How did you do it?
jeff
 
Disconnect the negative side of the batteries. Usually there are only two or three points that the negative is grounded to the system. My ECU is connected to the start battery so you need to get the negative from the ECU off. Leave it off for a few minutes then reconnect. I would recommend always starting battery disconnect with the ground wire though others may disagree. Your jumper should have worked so it sounds like your connection was a bit loose.

Pat
Ladybug, Too
 
Hey friends.

We were having the same issue on our 2011 6BY260. The new switch cost us $40, the install was simple, and it seems to have solved the problem.

Rich
Salt Life

2d8186b848cfae6c44c95951cd9b7285.jpg
 
The mechanic who did my now $5,000 oil change stepped on the neutral switch and dislocated it. This thread helpped me find it - and the relocation was easy. Thank you.
 
Let me make my several thousand dollar problem clear: The boat was in excellent condition when I purchased it, the previous owner took good care of the equipment, furnished ample spares, and represented her exactly as she was as I learned the systems. After purchasing three previous boats - two new and two previously owned, this was my best purchase experience.

The problems began with a routine oil change - and a request to swap the two bilge pump auto-switches since water had accumulated in the bilge when I washed the cockpit -- still don't know why, but the pumps easily kept up until they both stopped coming on.

When the boat was returned, there was water in the transmission - another oil change took care of that, and no engine oil pressure. A mechanical gauge showed it was an instrument problem. Some research on this web resulted in finding there was a service advisory with the symptoms displayed, Advisory Number: YASA2012 ─ 006 ─ M; thanks to Ranger for posting this.

In the process of changing the wrong float switch, the first "mechanic" changed the shower switch (working) instead of the forward bilge switch (not working), the mechanic also cut a wire, still unknown, and broke the hot water supply hose to the shower. I repaired the shower, thanks again to this web, and hunted for what doesn't work on the cut wire. I now believe the wire must have powered a non-purchased factory option and this is not needed.

The I transported the boat to an authorized Yanmar dealer for the service advisory repair. The service writer (new) turned it over to a mechanic who spent several hundred $$$ of unauthorized diagnostic to determine he was stumped, and removed the Engine Control Unit to ship back to Yanmar for testing. At that point, the service advisor finally told the mechanic about the service advisory - so they responded with a $2,000+ alternator replacement (I authorized $600 since first mechanic 1 had "watered" the old alternator.

A second mechanic re-installed the new alternator and engine control unit after a $700 yard bill and was still not told about the service advisory, so he didn't replace the connector on the oil sender - the real problem.

I've now paid both yards a significant portion of their bills, paid the marina for storage, and freed the boat up for my use.

In the process, I found the replaced the working water pump on the generator was replaced with a new $475 pump that was shipped, as most pumps are, with the impeller cover loose so the impeller could be set for the correct rotation. Obviously, that pump failed after a few minutes of operation - just enough for my visual inspection to show water coming out when I first started the generator.

Thanks again to this web and the previous owner's spare parts bin, I put in another properly installed impeller, properly tightened the bolts and everything if fine.

So, I've "installed" a couple of "no step" signs to encourage further mechanics, if I ever use another one, not to step on the neutral switch, wastgate hose, wiring harnesses or any other place not clearly safe to step - and the boat is back running with only the oil advisory remaining to be installed. I'll do that next week.

Again, absolutely none of this pre-existed my purchase.

Now, why did I use a mechanic? I've always had boats, always done all my own work including total rebuilds of previous Yanmar engines that just wore out. I've turned 70 and decided to retire from repairs, stop waiting for draw bridges, and enjoy the water on the Ranger. Turns out, only the last part is true - I'm back to doing my own maintenance, enjoying both the maintenance challenge and the improved confidence that comes with really knowing the boat, and while I don't think doing my own work generally saves much money, it would have saved about $4,000 in this case.
 
What a horror story. That is why I do whatever I can myself. My wife has this misguided impression that a guy with a truck and a name on it is a "professional". I have seen "professionals" break more than they fixed. When I was having my oil pressure issue fixed under warranty, the first "Gold Star" mechanic said, " wow, covers on the engine. I never saw that before!" :roll:
 
I have about a .500 batting average with DIY vs professional. Half the time, I do a better job; half the time the pro saves my butt.

Tom
Life Savor

DIY-M.png
 
Just to add to this subject. I had the symptoms of nothing happening when the key was turned. A Neutral Safety Warning came up on the engine display and the Garmin. Moving the throttle slightly would find the "sweet" spot and the engine would start. This progressively got worse and I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch which is pictured in an earlier post. Very easy to replace and the new switch is definetly larger and metal/plastic, the original is all plastic.
The Yanmar part no. is 120270-77102, list price $26.00.
Knowing the part no. helps in ordering as this part shows up under the marine gear.
This part appears to be an issue and carrying a replacement would be a good idea.
 
Back
Top