New R27OB sliding on trailer

[Beanbaron]

We received our new boat and trailer this spring and while we’ve only been able to use it a few times, we love it; of course. One issue we’ve not learned how to solve is the boat sliding back on the trailer when going up the boat ramps, especially the steep ones. We ratchet the bow tightly into the rubber holder on the trailer but by the time we get to the top of the ramp (going very slowly) the boat can slide as much as 12-18”.

This happened on our first day of training with the dealer. He said to crisscross ratchet straps on the stern to the trailer and to stop every so often and ratchet the bow as it inches forward. This worked ok the first time, only taking about 50 miles and a couple of stops. But the second time we drove almost 500 miles and it only moved forward about halfway, with us arriving home with the bow about 4-5” away from where it should nest.

Last weekend the ramp was steeper and the boat moved back (stretching the 2”strap that the new trailer came with) about 14-15” by the top of the ramp. I stopped several times on the 65 mile trip home but was only able to move it forward about 5”. You can feel the difference when it’s riding back there like that, of course.

Two questions or maybe potential solutions I wanted to ask you all about: 1. Can I use a chain or possibly a 2nd ratchet strap up front to try to eliminate it from moving? 2. I don’t like the idea of getting behind and under it while sitting inclined on the boat ramp but wondered if attaching Boatbuckle straps to the stern before I go up the ramp? This option would seem potentially dangerous and would be a drag when the ramp is busy.

Any advice or council would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Danny

 

[CruisingElvinRay]

It sounds like what is happening is that your Tug is floating when you connect the winch and tighten it, then as the boat settles onto the trailer during the pull-out, it rotates away from the winch.

Couple of things:
1) My safety chain is about 12 inches long, so it could never move away more than that. Are you using the safety chain?
2) you may be backing the trailer too far into the water. I back our R-23 trailer to where the top of the wheel wells are just breaking the surface. That allows me to power the boat onto the trailer and not have any “floating” at the rear. My wife will back down a few feet, if necessary, for me to get it fully on the trailer.
3) On the ramp, I tighten the winch and attach the safety chain - that’s it, until we get off the ramp and on level ground (no sense fighting gravity). Usually, there is a gap of a couple of inches that closes with a quick stop.
4) I don’t attach the rear straps until I have the gap closed because they are just causing more friction by holding the boat tight to the bunks.
5) I do not cross the rear straps. The rear straps are there to keep the boat from lifting or moving forward in a collision. In the crossed strap scenario, if one strap fails, the boat can go up or forward in a collision easily.
6) Don’t get frustrated. It will take some practice and experimentation to figure out the process that works best for you.

I have a few goals when we are putting in or getting out of the water:
1) nobody gets wet (not even shoes). You shouldn’t have to wade into the water to launch or retrieve the boat.
2) minimize time on the ramp. We make ready in the lot and usually my only pause on the ramp is for Lisa to get the lines off the boat as I’m backing down. The truck and trailer are on the ramp for about 60 seconds.). Retrieval takes a little longer (2-3 minutes) just to maneuver the boat onto the trailer and connect the winch strap.
3) no stress. We use a checklist of about 50 items that helps make sure we don’t have any “oh crap” moments. And headsets really help.


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[zekeandboone]

Sounds like you need to do the "Ranger Bump". We did it every time we retrieved our '17 25SC and then on our '19 27OB.
We would get it snugged up to the roller with the winch while in the water. (and I'd connect the safety chain) Pulling it up to level ground always left a 6-8" gap. I'd get the truck and trailer going about 5-10mph and brake fairly hard. the boat would slide right up and snug up against the roller. Then we'd tighten the winch strap, install the stern straps and off we go. Works great with the bunks wet. West Marine sold a bunk lube spray. I never tried it as I imagined I didn't want slippery bunks after they dried.
It made me extremely nervous at first, but after a few times it became SOP.

 

[Beanbaron]

Thank you both very much. I think I’m backing in too far. In fact, I know I have been. Super helpful guys, thank you.

It did not come with a safety chain but I should have known better and asked about it. But I’ll get one this weekend.

I sure appreciate it. Thank you.

Danny

 

[Catch22]

Mary Kate bunk spray makes the Ranger Bump much easier.....drops the speed needed to reset considerably. One important note....Do Not unhook your bow strap on sloped ramps as you might have previously done. Some have reported premature unloading similar to a roller trailer.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Here’s a solution that I’ve used on 3 RT’s. Before retrieving the boat I loosen the nuts on the chain/strap stand and move it forward as far as available and then tighten the nuts. Load the boat up tight against the stand, pull out for trailering prep. During prep I loosen the stand nuts and slide the stand back tight against the boat hull…..as the boat still adjusts backwards during trailering…..and I’m usually good to go.

Jim F

 

[Beanbaron]

Great tips, guys. Super appreciate it. Thank you.
Danny

 

[Kimberly Dawn]

+1 to Zekeandboone and Catch22 for "Ranger Bump" and "Mary Kate".

I too found you can back the trailer too far back into the water, effectively taking away the front bunks ability to raise the bow and have your anchor clear the bow roller.

Bob
Kimberly Dawn

 

[knotflying]

Steeper the ramp the more pronounced the issue. I usually run the trailer back with the fenders about one inch below the water. This helps but usually still requires the "bump". Once out, and before installing the stern strap, tighten the winch as much as you can. Get on level ground, accelerate a bit and stop short. You may have to do it a few times as you keep tightening the winch. When all is good then put on the stern strap. By the way, I use a 2" strap over the gunnels with the strap behind one stern cleat and in front of the other. This will tend to secure it from forward and rearward movement. I also use a strap at the bow down to the trailer to prevent up and down bounce.

 

[Beanbaron]

Very helpful, thank you. We ordered the spray and will follow all of these wonderful tips. We have been on extremely steep boat ramps, too, so it’s exacerbated the problem, I think. But I feel much more confident now.

Thanks again, gentlemen.
Danny

 

[Red Raven]

Very helpful, thank you. We ordered the spray and will follow all of these wonderful tips. We have been on extremely steep boat ramps, too, so it’s exacerbated the problem, I think. But I feel much more confident now.

Thanks again, gentlemen.
Danny

I have found that using the spray helps so much that I can move the boat forward a bit even when out of the water on the level (down hill even better). I crank the winch really really tight and then from the ground push and pull the the bow side to side enough to break the friction and the boat will move forward about 1/4 inch from the tension. Repeat as needed. With two persons you can inch it forward fairly quickly. If I need to move it more than an inch or two I usually resort to the Ranger bump though. Need to make sure everything inside is really secure or it will all end up on the floor.

As stated before, the less the trailer is in the water the closer the bow will remain to the roller when pulled out. The trade off is the increased power required to push the tug up the bunks.

Curt

 

[YukonRon]

I had the same problem when we trailered our R25, and I stripped the gears on 2 winches before I figured it out. The trailer is on a steep angle on the ramp while the boat is floating level above. The angle of the winch post and the angle of the bow of the boat are not the same. If you winch the boat tight to the roller, the post will lever away from the bow as the boat settles onto the trailer rising up beneath it. The weight of the boat pivoting on the front bunk as the rear settles can be enough to strip the gears of the winch. I found it was better to leave a gap at the roller with some slack, then do the "Ranger Bump" to settle it in place after pulling out.

 

[CruisingElvinRay]

What brand is your trailer?


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[Beanbaron]

I had the same problem when we trailered our R25, and I stripped the gears on 2 winches before I figured it out. The trailer is on a steep angle on the ramp while the boat is floating level above. The angle of the winch post and the angle of the bow of the boat are not the same. If you winch the boat tight to the roller, the post will lever away from the bow as the boat settles onto the trailer rising up beneath it. The weight of the boat pivoting on the front bunk as the rear settles can be enough to strip the gears of the winch. I found it was better to leave a gap at the roller with some slack, then do the "Ranger Bump" to settle it in place after pulling out.

We tested the new process and it worked, thank you everyone. The spray hadn’t arrived yet but on this lake the ramp wasn’t as steep, I didn’t back in as far, I added a strap from the bow to the trailer tongue before I went up the ramp and did a bump, just for good measure. One item off my list.

Thank you all,
Danny