New to me 1996 21 classic

Zakevans21

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Joined
Jan 28, 2022
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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C (Sterndrive)
Hello,
I’ve been browsing this site for some time now and have recently pulled the trigger on an older Ranger 21 Classic. I have a few questions as of now and I’m sure I will have more to come. This is my first tug/trawler, my first true inboard, my first Diesel and I’m newly implanted on the Southeastern coast.

The boat I’m buying has a a 2gm20 yanmar. From my research that would imply it is direct sea water cooled…. However, my boat has a coolant tank which leads me to believe it’s a closed fresh system with a seawater exchange system. Could the motor tag be wrong?

I’ve been unable to find a drain plug for the boat. Did this model/year not have a bilge drain?

Cushions - sadly all of them are missing. Is there a place I can order them?

Refinishing the fiberglass. Does anyone recommend a certain buffing compound.

Please excuse my ignorance
Thanks,
-Z
 
Bumping post delayed in moderation queue.
 
The 20 yanmar can be direct raw water cooled or in the case of Ranger it would have a closed loop system with a heat exchanger.
The ranger tug home page has a contact area at the bottom with past models and downloadable owners manuals. I see there is no listed manual for the classic, but there is a spec sheet. Contact Kenny Mars in customer service for help with your parts and questions. Enjoy your 21 classic.
 
The 2gm20 yanmar came in two versions A GM that is raw water cooled and a GMF which is fresh water cooled. Based on the previous post I assume the engine is a GMF. Based on the fact that it has a coolant tank GMF. To confirm without a doubt the model should be stamped on the engines name plate. Example 2GM20F Closed cooling, 2GM20 raw water cooling.

There are all kinds of products to restore the gel coat. The suggestions are all based on experiences using the different products. I have used several different combinations of compounds and waxes over the years. My Go to which has worked well on restorations and maintaining several hulls is Wizards TurboCut has a compound. It can be aggressive or mild when cutting the oxidation. Buffer speed and pressure regulate the cut. After the boat is compounded removing the oxidation I use a polish compound to reduce the swirl marks and bring the gel to a start looking shine. Marine 31 final step polish is the product that I use. After the polishing is completed I wax the hull with Gel Coat Carnauba Wax + Sealant Marine31product to protect the gel coat and give the gel a wet look. If the hull is severely oxidized which many Ranger Tugs are this process works but will require a every few month wax sealant application to maintain it. If not it will return to the original oxidized look. If it is not badly oxidized you will get a season and need to repeat the polish application and wax/sealant application yearly.

Pictures of my 2016 Cutwater in June of 2021 after a polish and wax using the marine 31 products.
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=79660&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=79663&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=79666&g2_imageViewsIndex=1

Congrats on purchasing the Ranger 21 Classic.
 
Z, the drain plug on the older R-21 can be hard to find at times when the boat has been bottom painted. I would check the Skeg (usually the starboard side) about 3 ft. fwd of the prop. It should be a hex plug and will be flush with the hull. This is the location that I found on a older R-21 that the owner sword did not have one and was located during prep for bottom painting. Good luck. Bob
 
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