Next R-21EC newbie question...

[johnniethek]

OK. I had my on-the-water tutorial with Andrew yesterday, and it went great. He's terrific (even bought me lunch at Ivar's on Lake Washington), like all the others at Ranger Tug.

He filled my head with more info than I could ever keep straight, and I know I'm going to be calling him frequently as I learn the ropes of my new R-21EC. At the end of our session, he turned off the master switch and everything is shut down (except for the bilge, of course).

I want to take my boat (which will be named Red Ranger, by the way) out into the Sound tomorrow. Here's my dumb question of the day: All I have to do is turn the master switch back on, and turn the key to start it, right? Nothing to open or close, other buttons or switches to push, pull or tug, right?

Thanks, in advance, for helping this newbie learn the ropes, er, the lines! 🙂

 

[captain's cat]

Assuming it's still in the water...it is right? 😱 Your're not that much of a newbie.... :roll:

You might make sure he didn't shut off the cooling water intake, probably not or you would have noticed that...

Have fun!

Charlie

 

[Kamalani]

John, I could be wrong here, but I seem to recall that the master battery switch only disconnects those circuits controlled by the rocker switch panel, (and the VHF which is not switched). Therefore, the ignition key will start the engine regardless of the batt. swich being on or off. There is one start battery, and one house battery, and the battery switch only disconnects the house circuits. The bilge pump is always on as long as there is voltage in the batteries. If I'm wrong here, I hope someone will jump in and set us straight. Alex, "Kamalani" (another Hero Red guy!)
PS - when I added electronics, I was advised to use the one unused spare rocker switch to isolate the electronics from the remaining circuits to prevent damage from low voltage, starting surges etc. I installed a separate fuse panel wired to that switch to carry the fuses required for each component.

 

[johnniethek]

Boat is on the trailer, but Jeff Messmer says just put it in the water, turn master switch to ON and turn the key. That's what I thought, but since this will be my first time solo with the boat I wanted to be sure.

I expect to spend several hours on the water this weekend, gradually breaking in the engine by running it at a variety of RPM levels. Also need to just learn all I can about the boat and its various options, accessories.

Cheers,

J

 

[rt11002003]

It sounds like Jeff left both fuel shutoff valve and the raw water intake valve open, if he said to turn on the master switch (the switch under the helm), start the engine and go.

I put my R-21 EC in the water recently and shutoff all valves and switches when I leave it. When keeping it on its trailer I didn't bother to shutoff anything but the electrical switches.

The engine isn't connected to the circuit controlled by the master switch, turning the key provides power for starting.

The master switch controls the house batteries.

There's another switch under the V berth, starboard side that controls the bow truster circuit.

On my boat the VHF is wired into the house circuit. If I shut off the master switch the VHF goes off.

Gene

 

[rt11002003]

I just noticed your comment about engine breakin. I recommend you follow the Yanmar breakin procedures listed in your engine manual. They are explicit.

Have fun.

Gene

 

[johnniethek]

Thanks, Gene. I'm following the recommendations of Andrew who said vary the RPMs for the first 50 hours and do NOT run it wide open for five minutes or more during the first 50 hours.

Unfortunately, I've looked in the operations manual and warranty pub and can't find a recommendation there. Will keep looking. though.

 

[johnniethek]

Oops...just found the break-in info on Page 10. Glad I did, too, because of what it says about keeping it BELOW maximum RPM most of the time during the first 10 hours. It also says NEVER operate it at wide open throttle for more than a minute at a time during first 10 hours. And not to keep it at low idle or low speed for more than 30 minutes at a time.

All good stuff to know before I head out this afternoon. I'm spending this a.m. filling out warranty cards for all the accessories, etc.

J

 

[rt11002003]

I don't think one needs to worry about achieving max rpm during breakin, or maybe anytime with our boats as they are propped from the factory. If I recall correctly, max rpm on our little Yanmars is 3500, maybe 3600 rpm. My engine, with the factory installed and adjusted prop will only turn 3375 rpm. That's with one person (200#), a few lines and a 10 lb. tool box, full safety equipment and a clean bottom (without bottom paint), my normal operating weight.

Most folks say a prop should be tuned such that it will allow max rpm of the engine with the boat loaded to its usual operating weight. If max rpm isn't attainable under those conditions then the engine is being overworked throughout its rpm range and the prop should be adjusted to reduce the working load on the engine.

I've seen a couple of posts here on Tugnuts which lead me to think most of the R-21 ECs are turning about the same rpm that I am. Of course one can't be sure of the accuracy of the tachs, but I'd guess they're accurate to within 50 to 100 rpm.

In another post, about the Cummins engines in the R-25s, Andrew says Ranger is propping them to satisfy Cummins. I'd assume Ranger is doing the same for our boats. If so, we shouldn't have to worry.

I read numerous posts on the Albin sites on this subject. The Yammars in the Albin 28 TEs started at 315 HP. It is a Toyota diesel engine from the Landcruiser that has been adapted for marine use. They also have other engines installed. A significant number of those people are concerned about being able to have their engines operate at exactly the correct max rpm.

Should we be concerned about max rpm? Older diesel engines were heavy, read structurally strong, and operated at low rpm, compared to what we see today. Most of them were probably operated in an rpm range that kept them under proper load. These new engines are lighter and operate at a higher rpm and some of us (who are familar with the older engines) may have an aversion to running them at an rpm which is best for the engine. I can't really answer the question. I do know that it's very easy to overload a light boat such that the engine is overloaded and unable to reach a rpm range which it is designed to operate in, which is not good. So at some point I'll make sure I can achieve max rpm with my usual load.

At 3375 rpm my tug reads 9.5 knts. on the GPS; that's flat water and no wind. At 2800 rpm, same conditions, it reads 7.2 knts. on the GPS. I've seen 10.5 plus knts. surfing down a wave.

Gene

 

[johnniethek]

Things worked like a charm. The boat, which I have named the Red Ranger, started up right away and the water/wind/wave conditions were excellent.

I took it out for 4.5 hours in Puget Sound from Point Defiance up to Three Tree Point and back again, criss-crossing my way up and back, varying the RPMs.

It ran like a dream...and I'm already dreaming and scheming about how many days/week I'll be spending in the San Juans starting later this month.

Tug-a-lug, mes amis.

JtheK

 

[rt11002003]

Sounds like you had a nice cruise. I took mine out yesterday evening for a two hour cruise around some of the islands. One of the three main reasons I bought a R-21 EC instead of the R-25 is because I single hand a lot. The R-21 is a great single hander, line handling, except for the bow line, is simple and done from the cockpit, three steps (2 1/2?) into the cockpit and everything is within easy reach.

Weekends in the summer on Lake Lanier can be a horror story. I usually try to avoid it, but I was desperate for a boat fix. In the main channel to my marina the waves created by so many boats were confused, choppy and in some places higher than my bow pulpit. Gotta give that little tug credit, it pushes right on over and thru it all.

I must have misread or forgotten, but the GPS reads 7.5 knts. at 2800 rpm in flat water, no wind. I found a spot behind one of the islands that was calm and re-checked speed vs, rpm. I ran the engine up without load, ie. in neutral, several days ago and remember seeing 3600 rpm on the tach. After re-reading the engine manual last night I noted it should exceed 3600 rpm. I should re-check that. I'd like to have an idea how accurate the tach may be.

Gene