NovaKool - 2021 R27 OB

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UVAfisherman

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Fluid Motion Model
R-31 CB
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At Liberty
We have a 2021 R27 OB - took delivery three weeks ago. I may have missed this in the orientation, but for the galley and cockpit refrigerators, do the house batteries have to be on for them to run. My plan had been to leave the house battery switch off when not on the boat, but I keep coming back to warm beer and spoiled coffee cream!

I had just assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that (a) the refrigerator was AC and DC powered or (b) there would be way to power it without leaving the the house bank on (recognizing the risk that your fridge would empty the batteries if the battery charger became inactive, and maybe that is the answer).

Thanks in advance,

Kevin.
 
!2V powers the refrigerators. House battery must be left on. When I leave my boat I have shore power on, main breaker on, battery charger breaker on. All other breakers are tuned off. I installed a Galvanic Isolator because I keep the boat plugged into shore power all the time. I also disable my N2K 12V power supply when I'm not on board for a number of days.

The refrigerators have been running, the beer is cold! Your next visit to the boat. All batteries are charged and you are ready to go. When I get back to the boat after leaving it for a while, Hot water heater breaker is turned on, along with Marine air breaker, ,outlet breakers, the battery charger is always on.

The Galvanic Isolator is your best friend if you leave shore power connected. I use Aluminum anodes which seem to work well in my application. I installed new anodes before leaving for a trip last fall. The boat was in the water from August to November in fresh water. It was in salt water for a month and then hauled out and stored for 6 weeks then launched again and used in salt water for almost 3 months. 70 % of the days the boat was plugged into shore power at several different marinas, some " sketchy " when it comes to utilities. I was surprised when I had the boat hauled and inspected the anodes. Prop shaft, trim tab and thruster anodes were showing maybe 10% erosion. I contribute this to the galvanic isolator doing its job.
 
Will I need a Galvanic Isolator if I keep mine on my lift, plugged into shore power...or are those mainly for when the boat is in the water plugged in?
 
UVAfisherman":cv2pt7y2 said:
We have a 2021 R27 OB - took delivery three weeks ago. I may have missed this in the orientation, but for the galley and cockpit refrigerators, do the house batteries have to be on for them to run. My plan had been to leave the house battery switch off when not on the boat, but I keep coming back to warm beer and spoiled coffee cream!

I had just assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that (a) the refrigerator was AC and DC powered or (b) there would be way to power it without leaving the the house bank on (recognizing the risk that your fridge would empty the batteries if the battery charger became inactive, and maybe that is the answer).

Everything on the R27-OB is 12v DC powered except for: Hot water heater, Keurig Coffee maker, port and starboard AC outlets, and the microwave. If you shut off the DC switch for the house bank, all that remains running is the bilge pumps, CO detector, stereo memory, and the stove switch.

With everything shut off on the boat (but the DC house switch on), the boat will draw 8 watts 24x7. When the refrigerator turns on it will jump up to 42 watts for the period of time the refer is running. (They operate on an on/off cycle, like, 1 hour on, 1 hour off kind of thing). The 8 watts 24x7 is a combination of: USB outlets, N2k bus, Stereo memory, and our Garmin GXM54 antenna. (Each of those items is about 2 watts/each).

We ran an experiment once, disconnected from shore power at 8:00pm with the batteries fully charged. (No solar, by the way. It was dark out and we are in a covered slip). Came back in 12 hours and saw 23Ah consumed. So I know our boat, without us on it, with only the bare essentials turned on, will consume a little under 50Ah a day. Also note, we have the cabin and cockpit refrigerator.

When I park our boat (it's in salt water in a covered slip), I turn off all switches (lights, and other electronics). I connect to shore power, turn on AC, and I energize the battery charger and hot water tank (so I have hot water to start out with on our next trip). I also energize the port and starboard outlets as we use them for a heater and dehumidifier. I leave the DC house, and engine switches turned on. We also have a galvanic isolator.
 
Someday*":2eyg12rs said:
Will I need a Galvanic Isolator if I keep mine on my lift, plugged into shore power...or are those mainly for when the boat is in the water plugged in?
If you keep the boat out of the water on a lift using shore power there is no need for a Galvanic isolator. Think of the isolator has protector of your anodes ( simple explanation). If the boat is out of the water the anodes are too.
 
also depends on your mooring location. some marinas and neighbor boats can be better or worse. I still get 6 months on my anodes in salt with no galvonic isolator and house batteries left on. I have a big divers dream plate that helps.
 
I also get 6 months on my anodes, sitting in salt water all the time, hooked up to shore power with DC power on all the time, and I have a galvanic isolator. The trim tabs anodes eroded faster than the engine transom anode.
 
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