I’ve been having trouble with oil leakage after I replaced the oil filter. Been through two filters same result. The tech says that 25 nm recommended on the Volvo D3 is way to much and you risk cracking the cap, or even worse the filter housing. He says the he uses no more than 15 to 18 nm. Has anyone cracked the filter cap while tightening to specs. This is getting to an expensive oil change. My first experience with a cartridge type filter.
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Oil filter cap cracked?
- Thread starter Pixie
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jaredjensen
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I've got the 6BY260, but my Jeep JK has the same style plastic cap cartridge holder. I've never even considered looking up the torque specs on either, and instead just make sure it's snug. I changed the boat oil the other day for the first time, and I could easily hand tighten the cap, then finish with a wrench. It's sealed by an o-ring, and I can't imagine the cap backing itself off enough to cause a problem, but maybe other folks have another opinion.
BB marine
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I tighten the cap to 25nm if not it leaks. The D3 service manual states 25nm. The first time I changed the filter I thought that 25nm was to tight to tighten a plastic cap so I just snugged it 1/4 turn past contact of the rubber seal. Filter leaked. I removed the cap and cleaned the filter housing, cap and rubber seal. I applied a light coat of oil to the seal and housing where the seal makes contact. I torqued the cap to 25NM. No leak, I have used this procedure after each filter change without issue. 25nm=221 in-lbs= 18ft-lbs its not a great deal of force. I have never cracked the cap.
jaredjensen
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BB marine":vastsvhx said:I tighten the cap to 25nm if not it leaks.
Hmmm, that's interesting. I'm not a trained mechanic, so definitely not an expert here. But I am a technical rebreather diver and have lots of o-ring sealed equipment that has seen 250+ feet depths. Unless your filter design is different than mine, the o-ring is doing all the sealing work, and the torque is just to prevent the cap from unscrewing itself.
Those plastic caps don't seem super strong, so I go by feel and avoid over-tightening them. Never had a problem with the one in the Jeep, and I'll keep an eye on the one in the boat.
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jaredjensen":22x0l8lb said:BB marine":22x0l8lb said:I tighten the cap to 25nm if not it leaks.
Hmmm, that's interesting. I'm not a trained mechanic, so definitely not an expert here. But I am a technical rebreather diver and have lots of o-ring sealed equipment that has seen 250+ feet depths. Unless your filter design is different than mine, the o-ring is doing all the sealing work, and the torque is just to prevent the cap from unscrewing itself.
Those plastic caps don't seem super strong, so I go by feel and avoid over-tightening them. Never had a problem with the one in the Jeep, and I'll keep an eye on the one in the boat.
The seal is not an o-ring it is a wedge seal, it has a taper. 25nm is not over tightening. It is the manufactures spec. Over tightening is, tightening beyond the factory spec., or tightening it with a wrench and not knowing how tight it is and possibly over tightening it. My thought is the factory designed the component and publishes a specification. I'm going to use the spec. I admit it seems excessive but when I didn't use the spec the filter leaked. It sounds like that is what is happening to Pixie too. To answer his question the cap has not cracked torquing to 25nm after 5 filter changes.
It is a wedge type. It is flat on one side and curved on the other. I placed the curved side out since that was the way it was it was in the box. That makes the removal tab facing inward a bit for easy removal. The other way the tab lies more to the outside. There are no instructions so I hope I’m doing it right. Does the curved side face out, away from the center?
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Have the removed filter cap sitting up side down on the deck with a rag under it, thoroughly clean the inside of the cap. Make sure the seal groove is completely clean with no residual oil in the groove ( if oil is left in the groove and new seal is installed it can cause leaks) Take the new seal and apply a light film of oil on the entire surface of the seal. Install the seal into the cap with tab facing up. Carefully seat the seal in the groove and confirm it is sitting even all the way around in the seat. Install the filter in the housing. Clean all the threads on the filter housing of old oil and confirm the threads have no burrs, inspect the seal mating surface on the filter housing. Make sure there are no burrs or high points that may cause a seal leak. Install the filter cap onto the filter housing. Thread the cap by hand until you feel the filter cap seal make contact with the filter housing. ( you should not need to use a socket wrench to thread the cap on up to this point. If you do, find out why. It should thread on evenly to the point of contact. ) Once the filter seal makes contact with the filter housing tighten with a torque wrench to 25NM.
The first time I did a filter change I had a leak. I didn't clean the cap throughly, I left oil in the seal groove thinking it would help lubricate the seal. I didn't torque the cap, I snugged it up. The leak that I experienced was not much. After running the engine for 10 minutes the housing was wet but little evidence of a leak. After a 2 hour run I noticed that the alternator had a few drops of oil on it. I ran my hand around the filter housing and it was leaking oil from the seal. I removed the filter cap and filter and replaced with all new again and used the above procedure and have never had an issue since. 5 changes no leaks and no cracks in the cap or housing.
The first time I did a filter change I had a leak. I didn't clean the cap throughly, I left oil in the seal groove thinking it would help lubricate the seal. I didn't torque the cap, I snugged it up. The leak that I experienced was not much. After running the engine for 10 minutes the housing was wet but little evidence of a leak. After a 2 hour run I noticed that the alternator had a few drops of oil on it. I ran my hand around the filter housing and it was leaking oil from the seal. I removed the filter cap and filter and replaced with all new again and used the above procedure and have never had an issue since. 5 changes no leaks and no cracks in the cap or housing.
jaredjensen
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Ah, yep, I see the D3 filter is a different design and not an o-ring like my Yanmar filter. Sorry to introduce any confusion.BB marine":1mnphkk6 said:The seal is not an o-ring it is a wedge seal, it has a taper.
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