Outboard vs Volvo-Penta Diesel

wabislander

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
69
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Non-Fluid Motion Model
17' wilker
Vessel Name
river time
Still evaluating multiple models. My search has crossed between outboard and the Volvo-Penta diesel. I have long experience doing my own maintenance on outboards from prior and current boats but none on diesels. I am concerned I will be trading the ability to handle much of my routine maintenance to paying a mechanic.

Are my concerns founded or can one master maintenance tasks. Have seen many mentioned they move to outboards to get address the maintenance issues they had with their diesels.
 
Diesel maintenance is pretty simple. Change the oil and oil and fuel filters probably once a season. Inspect and possibly replace raw water pump impeller once a season. Keep an eye on belt and hoses. Only complicating factors tend to be access issues due to engine installation. Winterizing is not difficult. Lots of good advice on all of this on Tugnuts. If you drop anything expensive at least it won't go in the water.

Larry
 
wabislander,

I've always maintained the engines on my water toys from outboards, jet ski inboards, and sterndrive engines. I recently purchased a Ranger Tug with the Volvo D4-300 inboard and have no issues whatsoever with the general maintenance items. I would say it's probably more complicated than an outboard but nothing meaningful for me. I'm not a mechanic by a long shot but quite handy.

Here's what I've done so far:
Engine/Generator oil change
Engine/Generator Fuel & Air filter change
Engine/Generator Impeller change
Boat, thruster and generator anodes

Upcoming is the transmission oil change. And there's maintenance of the drive shaft seal (I haven't looked into this much yet). Parts alone for the engine/generator filter, air, fuel changes was shy of $500. Not sure what this looks like for the outboards. Winterizing the engine is easier on an outboard but not difficult on the inboard.

I've followed a lot of threads on the difference between the two as I find it intriguing how the industry is moving to outboards on formerly traditional sterndrive / inboard boats. Depending on the model boat you are looking at, an outboard version may not have a generator. Outboard boats are much faster but also need to be going faster to plane which could result in a rougher ride in choppy seas. My inboard will be happily on plane at 13 knots.

Good luck,
Franco
 
There are other differences between the diesel and OB models besides the engine type and top speed that I consider as well.
Using, say a 2016 R27 Classic vs a 2020 R27 O/B as an example:
1. Hot water from running the engine on Classic vs none for O/B
2. Helm seat a single for Classic vs bench seat for O/B
3. Head in rear starboard cabin in Classic vs in the v-berth for O/B
4. Dinghy storage on relatively inexpensive Davits for Classic vs lift for O/B
5. Fresh water tank capacities of 50 gallons for Classic vs 40 for O/B
6. LOA differences 30’1” for Classic vs 31’7” or 33’4” for O/B
7. Much different complexity of buying/installing cockpit enclosures for keeping the bugs out between two models!
8. Arguably better ride in choppy conditions for Classic vs O/B

Obviously many other design, feature set and production differences between the Classic and O/B models. How important those differences are to you is what counts!
 
I’ve been able to service the diesel (Yanmar) on the 27 Classic we had as well as the VP D4 on the R29S without any problems and agree with what’s been stated on this post. If you’re talking about basic maintenance you should not be concerned with a diesel. Based on this I’d suggest it’s more important to purchase the kind of hull design and speed requirements you’d find more compelling.

Jim
 
Vicki and Al highlight the real differences. The choice of power is only one of many considerations. Don't get hung up on that one point.

Thinking used RT 25SC and new 25OB as a comparison these are two totally different animals in many ways. Each will have it's own following and argue vociferously for their choice. We came from a history of I/O (brief), twin inboard and several outboards. I love outboards and the simplicity. I really love twin outboards for the handling capability. Unfortunately the ability to cruise comfortably at 12-13 knots in a chop, to be able to see junk/logs in the water and have a head outside the V-berth area were big factors in our choice and steered us to the boat we have.

Make a written list of what's important and prioritize it. Then sea trial the options. You will soon know.
 
To answer your question - No! You will be fine doing maintenance on either!
Bob
 
The other I haven't seen discussed is the fact that I'd rather deal with the epa and absorbant fuel gatherers than having to deal with gas fumes and the fire gods.

Stuart
 
On the subject of maintenance " new outboard " verse "new diesel " My definition of new outboard -4 stroke, fuel injected, electronic fuel management,...... Diesel - small displacement high output, common rail, turbo charged, mounted to a reverse gear.

I believe it is a wash! Maintenance cost for parts slightly higher for Volvo or Yanmar. Parts availability better for Yamaha or Suzuki.

Yearly maintenance Items that can be maintained without hauling the boat are a bit different between the outboard and inboard.
Inboard diesel - oil change , reverse gear, both primary and secondary filters, air filter, coolant change, raw water pump impeller and packing gland adjustment, all can be done with the boat in the water and by a DIY. Most major jobs can also be done with the boat in the water. The negative to working on theses Tugs and Cuts is everything is tight.

Outboard- Oil change, fuel filter change, engine flushing and general inspection can be done in the water. Any other maintenance item like spark plug change, engine block anodes replacement, greasing midsection , gear lube change, impeller replacement will require the boat to be hauled. All of this work can be done by a DIY. Don't be fooled thinking everything is easy to get to with just removing the cowling. It is not. There is a lot of components installed under the cover and some compotes require removal to get to serviceable items.

Performance differences. Modern small displacement diesels will provide 18 to 20 Hp per gallon of fuel burn. Modern day outboards about 12 hp per gallon of fuel burn. The boats with outboards are planning boats more speed. If the diesels were put in the same boats that would be a better combination. I would really like a R27 outboard with a Volvo D4 mounted to a stern drive. That would give the best of both worlds.

Ranger and Cutwater lost me when they started the outboard performance boats. Don't misunderstand me they are very nice and I love the performance. I like my C26 but it is to slow 21 mph on a good day WOT. I see many diesel powered single screw boats in the 30' range just blow by us cruising at 25kts with 32 to 35kts wot range. I guess I want the best of both worlds. I'll stick with my slow Cutwater ( we really enjoy it when cruising slow ). My next boat will most likely be an outboard mounted to a center console or duel console. GW,BW, Robalo, Parker..... but that is a few years from now.

The decision of which boat should not be made on maintenance. The decision should be made on how you plan to use the boat.

Both have +and-.

Good luck with your decision.
 
The diesel overall will have a lower TCO.

Marine diesel is usually 25-30% cheaper than marine gas, even in states where diesel is more expensive at your corner gas station (don't pay attention to gas station prices, marine fuel prices have a different tax structure and can be *very* different depending on the state). Even with the same miles/gallon rating, you'll spend a lot less to power a diesel boat.

Re: maintenance, as @BB marine said, the maintenance ends up being something of a wash. Also, some maintenance will require a haulout which adds expense (sometimes quite a bit, depending on yard availability where you are). Having maintained both diesels and outboards (as well as land-based diesel and gas engines), I think that for a DIYer, diesels are simpler overall.

I do think there is also something to be said for diesels generally being more reliable, breaking down less frequently, and being somewhat "easier" to fix when they do. There isn't much that can go wrong with a properly maintained marine diesel, and the vast, vast majority of the time it's a fuel problem. Gas engines, on the other hand, have a lot more that can go wrong even if properly maintained. Boaters (especially sailors) who put a high premium on reliability and longevity almost universally favor diesels. The service life of a 4-stroke outboard, even well maintained, isn't generally perceived as more than 5-10k hours (I say "perceived" because I've never seen data, only spoken to mechanics). But a there are diesel engines with 30k+ hours still running fine, and properly maintained 10k hours is often seen as the floor. This matches passenger cars, by the way: in good diesel sedans, the engine is usually the last thing to fail (I've worked on a diesel Mercedes that had 500k miles on the engine).

I would say on the plus with the gas boats, the storage is truly bonkers. Move the engine outside the cockpit, and all that room becomes wet storage. I'm a little envious of that.
 
Thanks for all the great information to date.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
New here, joined as part of my investigation into the brand(s). Interesting, I am also making the same decision, leaning towards diesel. I boat in the SF Bay - chop in the Bay all summer afternoon and large swells in the pacific often. Lots of all sorts of different boats here, but the issues with boats that stay on plane at high speeds is rough in the chop and then launching on days with long period swells - 6-10' is not uncommon outside the gate. Summers are also following seas everyday coming back in the gate, so bow high, low planing speed is ideal. Going slow off plane gas mileage is not as efficient or torquey w/ a 4 stroke - I kind of landed on the Cutwater 30 a good compromise SF Bay Pacific/Bay boat 16-20knot cruise and can go slower at displacement for range or serious weather or faster if needed to hustle. I am really thinking for my local area which has its own set of requirements. I see maintenance as secondary as they will both need it and I'll probably do the basics myself - outsource anything hairy. Fuel costs sort of third, I suspect both with be a lot maybe diesel a little cheaper but have a feeling not a huge % of total spend when you add in cost of everything including the boat...

We'll see, looking at blowboats too. Hope to be an owner of a vessel of some sort vs. lurker soon 🙂
 
Outboard - R27OB

Cheaper to operate
Easier to maintain
FASTER
MUCH FASTER
More maneuverable
Buy only YAMAHA
Be careful with crimping hydraulic steering lines
Allows for more storage room in main compartment
Quieter
Keeps prop out of water when not using
Fuel is cheaper - car gas OK - use high octane
 
Back
Top