packing the shaft while in water

J

johnw

Active member
Joined
May 22, 2018
Messages
40
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
Aisling
R-27--2012
Any concerns for packng the gland while in the water? Also,
without taking out packing, did anyone successfully use SYNTEF marine lube instead of taking the rings out?
Thanks for any thoughts.
John
 
Hey John,

I haven't done my R-25 yet, but I've done many other boats in the water with no problems. The flow of water into the boat has always been far less than I expect and easily handled by the bilge pump. You can always wrap a rag to slow it down even more. It's easy enough to replace rings, I've never done marine lube....

You can always back it all the way off, and if it's more than you're comfortable with, screw it back on and make a new plan.

Matt
 
The photo below is the Nut style packing gland in the C26 Cutwater that I owned. This is the same gland used in the R27. The spacing in the R27 is slightly more but not much more. The removal of the packing out of the nut style gland in this tight area is not a quick event. Not only is it a slow process it is difficult as you are working in an awkward position. The nut needs to be removed and the packing is in the nut. This means you have full water flow leaking around the shaft

This is reversed in gland style packing. The pusher is removable and packing stays in the gland. This style is much easier to do in the water. The packing continues to seal the shaft and very little water leaks. The best way to repack this style in the water is to leave the last strand in the gland and replace the top two strands.

My answer to your question is I would not attempt to repack a nut style in the water. Especially on with limited room and access to the shaft. If you stuff a rag to stop the water you will not have room to get at the nut to remove the packing strands and install new ones.





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I've not attempted to re-pack in the water. I can tell you that I wouldn't re-pack in the water unless I've done it at least once before out of the water.
 
Guys, not that much water comes in. There is not a lot of gap between the shaft and the gland. Easily handled by the pump. Precut the rings, fish the old ones out with a pick, stuff the new ones in, done. It’s a 10 minute job.

I’d recommend you back the packing nut off, see actual how much water comes in so you know what you’re dealing with. Then screw it back on. Then you can decide if you wanna pay the $10 for the packing, or that plus the $300 for the haul and hang to do it dry.
 
This sounds like (Hay, hold my beer and watch this), Please have someone video the procedure, I'm always up for a (why didn't I think of that moment) Bob
Note: most of my simple projects takes a few trips to town for parts and if it can go wrong it will!
 
A 10 minute job!!! This forum is to give information based on experience and explanations of how the job was done. I have changed plenty of packing in 20 plus years of working as a marine technician packing shaft glands and 20 years as a millwright repacking pumps. I have never done a packing job in 10 minutes. I know from experience it can not be done in a Ranger Tug in ten minutes. Can the packing be replaced in the water when repacking a nut style gland ? Yes ! Would I recommend it?No I believe the consensus of most that have replaced the packing in a Tug or Cut on land would agree that it would be best to spend the money to lift the boat. Packing replacement in theses boats is a PIA. When the nut is removed there is around.050 to .080 clearance 360 degrees between the shaft and the shaft packing log. Yes the water flow may be kept up with a pump but you will be working in a confined area with water running on you hands as you try to feed the new rope into the nut. From experience it is a PIA with it dry. If something goes wrong in the job you will be screwed if you are in the water and then need to pull the boat. There are many installations this can be achievable but not the a Ranger Tug. There are several threads about packing replacement on R25, R27,29,31 Cutwater 26 and 28 all with Nut style glands. None of them have been done in the water. Mdennype may be the first to try it and do it in record time. Good luck I’m rooting for you to succeed.
 
I have repacked my R31 CB while it was in the water. Definitely not a 10 minute job in my case. Took me about 45 minutes to remove the old rings with a cork screw type puller and to repack. The water intrusion rate was much less than I expected and yes the factory bilge pump kept up well. I respect Brian’s experience and opinions and do agree that it is a wiser choice to repack it on the hard, but in a pinch, it’s doable.
 
That is why at my last haul for bottom paint I had them install a PSS seal. Bilge pump hasn't run since.

Bill Sanborn
 
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