Photo of Stuffing Box

K

Kaptajnen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2018
Messages
258
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 C
Vessel Name
Akvavit
Can anyone provide a photo or drawing that shows a detailed image of the Ranger 31-S ‘s Stuffing Box?

Thank you in advance.
 
Not sure if you are asking for a photo of just the exterior, or if you want a photo of the packing gland opened up with a view of the packing inside. I thought I might have a decent photo of the exterior, but not sure I do — at least, I can’t find one right now. Here is one online from a Ranger 27, with the nut backed off for adjustment and showing the open threads. It may not be identical in size, but it is functionally the same. Someone else is likely to have a better image for you. But until then, hope this helps.
img-7255.jpeg


Gini
(P.S. the captainjohngray.com website has some very detailed and helpful maintenance writeups for a 27 with a Yanmar engine it. Several are helpful for other Ranger Tug models, for anyone interested).
 
This is the link to Marine hardware products.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... 7VQRsRT6by

When you open it go to product catalogs and then go to running gear catalog page 27. this page shows the packing gland and nuts. This catalog has many parts used on Ranger Tugs.
 
I am still a bit confused after seeing your photo.

Is it the thin nut that I have to loosen OR is it the “fat” nut shown in your photo?

This post said it is the thin nut so I just need a confirmation. Thanks in advance!

————————————— quote ————-

“The large nut is the actual packing Nut. The thin nut is the locking nut. Before trying to loosen the locking nut clean the threads aft of the locking nut and spray a small amount of penetrating oil on to the threads. Take a small ball peen hammer and tap the nut a few times to shock to nut and gland. The locking nut is turned clockwise when facing aft. Install the wrench on the locking nut and give the wrench handle a couple taps with the hammer to help shock the nut loose. You should always have the packing nut backed up with a wrench to eliminate stresses on the packing log hose. Normally shocking the nut with the hammer will help loosen the nut. Once you get the nut loose turn it until you run out of threads. Now clean the threads forward of the locking nut. Work the locking nut back and forth to clean the threads. applied small amount of grease to the threads. Now it is time to adjust the packing nut. only go 1/8 turn at a time. Do not over tighten”
 
You need to loosen the thin nut. Facing direction of the prop turn it clockwise. It only needs to rotate a small amount to free the "fat" nut. Then back the "fat" nut all the way off of the threads to get access to the packing.

If you cannot move the locking nut with wrenches then I've always found that using a hammer and a drift pin will work. Just put the drift pin on a corner of one of the flats and give it a good rap with the hammer to break it free.(Clockwise) No need to pound on this thing.
 
Hi Newf:

I think I was following along with all this UNTIL you mentioned a drift pin: What is that? (a punch??) And, how is it used?

Thanks in advance!

Bryan of Rubicon II
 
b&jsrubiconii":76o7e73v said:
Hi Newf:

I think I was following along with all this UNTIL you mentioned a drift pin: What is that? (a punch??) And, how is it used?

Thanks in advance!

Bryan of Rubicon II
Click to expand...

Yes,, Just a punch. You just need a rod of some sort to place against the corner of one of the flats on the locking nut that you can whack with a hammer to rotate the nut. I have a piece of brass shafting 1/2" diameter by 12" long that I use. You just need something long enough to make it easy to use. If you've cleaned the thread behind the locking nut and have sprayed it with a penetrant, once it breaks free the packing "fat" nut should back off fairly easily.

Again, you do not need to continually pound on this, as others will tell you that you should not be hammering impact forces into your transmissions bearings.. A good rap or two on the corner of the nut should free it.
 
I found that spraying the area with PB Blaster and letting it sit overnight helps. Tapping around the two nuts also helps. Then try turning both nuts at the same time to loosen in opposite directions. If that does not work, using a pointed punch with hammer on thinner nut angled in the direction you want it to turn (towards port) will work. Once loose you may be able to then loosen the stuffing nut. However, you may have to do the punch method on that as well. And remember, that is the opposite direction. I found using anti-seize on the threads before reassembly helps for later projects.
 
I do not recommend backing the packing nut off if you are doing an adjustment. If you are replacing the packing yes you have to. I recommend before moving anything. Mark the has found position so you know how much advancement you did when adjusting the Nut. The biggest mistake most make is tightening the packing nut to much at one time. Once you compress the packing you should not back it off for an adjustment.

If you look at the photo below. The thin nut with the 4" mark above it is the locking nut. Tap on this to help loosen it. The Nut wit the the 3" mark above it is the packing nut this nut contains the packing. When you tighten this it compresses the packing inside the nut. The measuring tape states at the engine coupler. working to the prop, Engine coupler, Packing nut, Packing locking nut, threaded portion of the packing gland, shaft log, cutlass bearing, prop.


gallery2.php?g2_itemId=67903
 
Thank you Brian. Your expert advice will help me and I am sure others from making an expensive mistake.
 
Sorry, got ahead of myself and was thinking of packing replacement. Brian's comment of not loosening it is spot on. And marking the nut is a good idea to judge distance of turn. I put a mark with a punch on one surface. When tightening do a little at a time. A slight turn of a degree or so and then run a bit and see how it goes. I have tied my boat securely to the dock and put it in gear and timed the drip. About 1 in 20 seconds.
 
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