Planing down table fiddle

[Gunner065]

Good evening folks, onto our next project.

We have a 2010 R25 SC and soon after purchase last year, realized that the table extends into the "passageway". We ordered the handrail/drink holders bar from RT and have it in hand.

The intent is to plane down the fiddles around the table, cut the table so as to expose the handrail mounted below and install concealed hinges. Once completed, it should look like tables found on newer models.

I'm wondering if anyone has done that themselves, if so, how did you plane down the fiddles so that they are at the same level as the table top? I'm thinking about using either an undercut jamb saw (used for cutting jamb when installing flooring) or a circular saw with fine teeth and a straight edge cut jig.

Any tips/advices would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Levitation]

I made a new table top.
Faster and easier than fiddling around with the existing top. :mrgreen:
I wanted more space in the aisle and more room for the rear seat. I have no use for the bunk conversion.
I did put fiddles on the new top to prevent an expensive laptop from sliding off.
Different strokes, etc.
When I get ready to sell the boat I will put the original back on so the buyer will have the extra bunk.

 

[knotflying]

Does that year model have the hand rail below? I did not think it had one and that feature was done in later models. With that said, if the hand rail is not there, you would need something substantial to support that table leaf when opened. Especially if you will be using it for sleeping at times. Reworking the top by planning the fiddle down and then refinishing should work out though.

 

[TylerFromEverett]

I think it will be hard to cut down the fiddles to be flush with the table top without doing some damage to the table top. You’ll probably need to sand and refinish the whole table as part of this project. Maybe not, if you’re careful and take extra care to protect the top with tape or paper.

Personally, I would use a multi tool like a Feintool, with a finishing blade. Or, a Japan saw. If you plan to route the outside edges, I would cut from the inside out, so the saw blade isn’t marring up the table top. This may cause a slight bevel on the outside edge due to the angle of the saw, but that’ll get worked out if you route the edges with a bullnose or round over.

For cutting the table, use a finishing blade on a circular saw, and straight edge. Score the top with a razor along your cut line before you cut. This will help reduce tear-out.

 

[doke01]

I took off the fiddles, cut down the table size, cut it in half and added hidden hinges, and cut down the base to add cup holders under the table. The hardest part was removing and re-finishing the table. I used a heat gun but would not recommend it because it caused bubbles that then needed to be repaired. Better to use a chemical stripper.

Removing the fiddles was pretty straightforward, just carefully pry them off. If you want to cut them down it would be better to remove them, cut them down, and put them back on.

Pics here: http://www.tugnuts.com/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=78462

 

[Gunner065]

I took off the fiddles, cut down the table size, cut it in half and added hidden hinges, and cut down the base to add cup holders under the table. The hardest part was removing and re-finishing the table. I used a heat gun but would not recommend it because it caused bubbles that then needed to be repaired. Better to use a chemical stripper.

Removing the fiddles was pretty straightforward, just carefully pry them off. If you want to cut them down it would be better to remove them, cut them down, and put them back on.

Pics here: http://www.tugnuts.com/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=78462

Thanks doke01, didn't even think about taking off the fiddles.

I'm pretty handy all around, however I lack good woodworking tools. Based on this, taking off the fiddles, cutting down and re-installing. Then cutting the table to accommodate the undermounted handrail/cup holders and re-finishing the table seems like my best options to prevent damage to the table top and to get the results that the "Admiral" expects.

My intent is not to have a glossy finish, but more akin of the current oiled-look. Any recommendations for finishing teak the proper way so as to preserve the look/qualities of the wood?