Powered Trailer Winches - Sherpa Grunter

[SKI3PO]

Anyone have experience with the Sherpa Grunter powered trailer winch? I'm considering for trailering an R31. Our ramp is very steep with large tidal swings. Almost impossible to not end up with a gap between the roller and the boat. It's rated to 20,000 lbs and is wired to the truck battery. See link below. Yes, I know about and have used the brake tap method with success.

Sherpa 'Grunter' Electric Boat Trailer Winch

Sherpa Grunter powerful electric boat trailer winches. Made in Australia with massive 6hp motors for fast and reliable boat recoveries. Free Shipping to USA. 5 year Warranty. Albright heavy duty solenoid as standard. Powerwinch Shelby Fulton Markey

sherpa4x4.com

 

[Kgcmflyer]

Anyone have experience with the Sherpa Grunter powered trailer winch? I'm considering for trailering an R31. Our ramp is very steep with large tidal swings. Almost impossible to not end up with a gap between the roller and the boat. It's rated to 20,000 lbs and is wired to the truck battery. See link below. Yes, I know about and have used the brake tap method with success.

Sherpa 'Grunter' Electric Boat Trailer Winch

Sherpa Grunter powerful electric boat trailer winches. Made in Australia with massive 6hp motors for fast and reliable boat recoveries. Free Shipping to USA. 5 year Warranty. Albright heavy duty solenoid as standard. Powerwinch Shelby Fulton Markey

sherpa4x4.com

Tim,
Although I tried a similar winch method to deal with the Gap at the roller and bow, I ultimately ended up with a dedicated socket and wrench and I just move the bow roller/Winch vertical post during each loading event. The winch I used did not struggle to pull our C302 up to the bow roller, but still left a gap although our ramps are not super steep…Moving the vertical post mount fore and aft provides a snug fit and stable ride with no extra strap required. I do actually still add an extra strap, but purely as a “safety” strap rather than to pull the bow down…The red circles in photos indicate which bolts I adjust each time. Before I figured all this out, the yellow strap was required and the boat still rocked on the back bunks….The second photos shows a nice snug roller to bow connection and the green strap is the safety strap….To re-state……I launch boat then move vertical post forward for next loading after trailer is out of water……then load boat and winch forward as required, then move vertical post aft after boat/trailer are moved from ramp to “make ready” level parking spot to make nice bow roller to bow connection then add green “safety Strap”….Works for me….might wear out some bolts/nuts over time, but spares are easy to source and less than $20….I think all the “GAP” issues are a geometry problem due to the bunk/ramp angle, etc…..I just don’t want any issues during the tow with such a heavy/wide load….The bounce of the bow caused me concern…
Hope all this helps is some way….After 15 or so launches I now know where to position boat from helm, wife provides hand signals or we communicate via headsets for proper positioning on trailer before pulling from water. Just a reminder to always keep the vertical post bolts tight before attempting to apply load to winch or pull boat from water……..(Could easily be overlooked if feeling rushed at the ramp)….hope all this helps…..