Princess Gas Oven

Scuffy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
473
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLT27161
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Float On Tandem Axle Trailer
Vessel Name
Tinytown
MMSI Number
338190746
We have a 2014 R-27 purchased in April 2015. We have an issue with the oven coming up to temperature and when the main burner reduces as it has reached temperature on the setting. The oven goes out. It relights fine. I took it apart and it seemed like the pilot stays on but for what ever reason we seem to lose the pilot light the thermal couple seems to be enveloped in the flame.
I called the number listed on the back of the Princess range manual 562 699 0908. I was told that the company had been sold and the new company did not buy the Princess line. I was given a new number 206 784 9903. I called they seemed helpful. I then removed the heat baffle and took a look at the pilot and everything looked fine. I think part of the problem was my wife at least once left the cover on the burners which I believe blocks the vent so the pilot in the oven might have been effected by that. But it has happened when the cover over the burners was not in place. Anyway I called back the new number to find out how to adjust the pilot flame and spoke with someone that was less than helpful and a bit abrasive. I gave him the model and serial number of our unit and then he asked how old the unit was, I replied the boat came with the oven and the boat was built in 2014. Then he said take some pictures so we can determine what unit you have. I said in disbelief "I just gave you the model and serial number doesn't that tell you anything?" He said no the product has been discontinued and to email them pictures so they could figure out which unit we had then they could trouble shoot it. Scary now. Just passing this along so you will have the correct number to find out where to email the pic's to. I'm not sure how much good that will do you. I would hope Ranger has someone that can shed a little more light on the subject than these folks. :roll:
 
My new boat came with an oven that's labeled Force10. Well, the manual has that on it.

It's a nice looking piece, but I have no idea what this brand is.
 
Contact Sure Marine Service in Seattle about this issue. It is a problem with the size of the vent that was installed on your oven when it was built. You can reach them at 206-784-9903.

Sure Marine also bought all of the spare parts that Princess had left when they sold the company. I would definently buy some handle. They have a tendency to break.
 
Sure Marine was who I called. See my post I listed the new number which matches what you recommended. The guy I talked to knew nothing and needs pictures of the unit to be able to help me at all. Model and serial numbers meant zippo to the guy I talked to. I'll try again tomorrow and see if someone at Sure is aware of the problem with the oven's vent size. I'll call Ranger Tugs and see if they are aware of the problem. Thanks for the info about the vent size problem.
 
Ok, called back Sure Marine to today talked to Adam who was pleasant. Much better. He transferred me to Todd. Todd knew his stuff and is sending me some info via email. He thinks I need to set the bypass setting a little higher. After the oven gets to the set temp the thermostat closes off the main gas to the burner and the bypass valve keeps the oven burner on at a lower level of flame and a small flame to envelop the thermocouple. No flame on the thermocouple the gas valve completely closes even cutting gas to the bypass as this is a safety to prevent unlit gas from building up. They try to set the bypass setting low so that the temperature does not increase if you were set on 275 degrees it might really cause the oven to not go any lower than say 300 degrees if the bypass valve gets adjusted too high. They think the oven burner is going out in the bypass mode as it might have been set to low. So the plan is to increase the bypass valve a little and see if that fixes the problem. Todd said removing the front cover to get to the thermostat which is where the oven control knob is,is a royal pain. So he recommends drilling about a 3/16 hole in the aluminum face plate at the 9 o:clock position about a 1/2 off the stem of the oven knobs shaft. That should allow you to get a small screw driver on the bypass adjustment and go counter clockwise a little bit to let a little more gas flow and keep the burner flame a little higher when the thermostat is in bypass mode. This eliminates having to dork around getting the front cover off and on. With the knob back in place it will cover the new hole. He said just use a sharpie in black to color the edges of the hole to make it less noticeable. We shall see what happens. No mention of the ovens vent being to small. Which seems to me that that would effect the oven running on full flame more than be a bypass mode issue.
 
Today I made a feeble attempt at removing the front panel on the Princess Gas oven. After deciding to avoid the dork around with removing the front panel I decided to follow Todd's advice and drill a hole at the nine 0'clock position in the front panel to the left of brass shaft of the oven valve. I ended up drilling about a 1/4 inch hole. I started off with a very small drill (1/16th) bit and worked my way up to the 1/4 inch size. I would say a just a little lower than 9 o'clock would be better. Mike Rizzo stopped by and used a flat blade screw driver and attempted to turn the bypass valve clockwise to turn it off. It did not move it seemed the valve was completely turned off. So he turned it counter clockwise just a smidge and lit the oven and set it at 350 degrees. It came up to temperature and the burner's adjusted down. The burner stayed on and having the door open caused the burner to go back to full flame. We tried a few times and it seems to stay lit while cycling up and down when it reaches set temperature and back up when the temperature drops.
The oven knob pretty much covers the hole and as instructed I took a black sharpie and went around the edges of drilled hole in the aluminum panel and the hole looks like a thoughtful factory design to let you have access to the bypass flame adjustment. So long story short the bypass adjustment screw was turned off. Turning ever so slightly counter clockwise solved the issue of the oven going out after it reached it's set temperature.
Also if you have a cover for the top burners remove it as ours blocked the vent which would also cause an issue with the oven staying lit. Thank you and Good Night.
 
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