Propane locker rust - what to do?

[Dale777]

On my 2014 R31S, the propane locker has rust on all the attaching bolts/screws in the bottom of the locker and severe corrosion on the base of each propane tank. This has happened even though I wash down the propane locker (and the entire boat) after every outing where I go somewhere above idle. Since I live next to a long narrow bay protected by a barrier island, I sometimes idle around in that bay to go to some waterside restaurant, then I don't do a wash down.

What can be done to deal with this severe corrosion issue?

Are the attaching bolts/screws in the bottom of the locker just screwed into the swim platform, so that I can remove and replace them while the boat is in the water? Or, are the attachments actually bolts with a nut on the bottom side of the swim platform?

I only take my boat out of the water once a year, so I don't remember the details of what is underneath the swim platform.

 

[Red Raven]

I had the same problem. Rinsing inside the locker with fresh water after each boating trip helps a lot but it does still occur. The rust mostly comes from the tanks as the locker bolts are stainless and the rust on them is limited to staining that cleans up with a little CLR and stainless steel wool. The biggest improvement comes from sanding down the sharp edges of the propane tank collars and painting them with cold galvanizing paint. The paint doesn’t form a thick enough coating on sharp edges and thus the rounding off to get better protection there. Others have suggested a rubberized coating to the tank collars but I haven’t tried it. I would sand down the sharp edges if using that coating as well.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

i bought new tanks, painted with rust inhibitor and then sprayed with thick rubberised black paint (truck bed). this helped a lot. (its the foot ring that really rusts so you only have to paint the bottom half)

what I have though is lots of left over rust stains in the locker that leaches out. what can I use to remove?

 

[Red Raven]

For the stains on fiberglass or starboard I use CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) and a magic eraser. Rub the CLR in with your fingers and let it sit a minute and then rub hard with the magic eraser. It’s a bit of work but it does work.

For the rust stains on the stainless steel I use stainless steel wool (often referred to as a stainless cleaning pad) and any stainless steel cleaner. Do not use regular steel wool! Stainless steel wool will not scratch metal (I was surprised but it’s true) or leave particles that can rust like regular steel wool. Then wax the stainless parts with Collinite metal wax.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

thanks Red Raven!!

 

[Hydraulicjump]

The problem, at least for us, is that the base of the propane tank is always wet (whether washing down the boat or using it) and always rubbing. Even though we worked hard to protect it with rubberized paint, it still wore through and rusted. A guy in my dock suggested we grab a sawsall and a plastic milk crate and cut out a circular insert so that the tank is raised off of the perpetual wet surface. Just did this and will see how it works.

 

[NewMoon]

Another solution is an aluminum propane tank. 20 years, zero rust.

 

[Red Raven]

Another solution is an aluminum propane tank. 20 years, zero rust.

Yeah, looked into that first. Unfortunarely they don’t make the size that fits in our propane locker in aluminum.

 

[SoundHound]

I too had a lot of rust on the bottom of the tank collars and rust stains on the fiberglass box floor below the tanks. I removed the tanks, sanded off all the rust down to the metal, and repainted with white Rust-oleum enamel paint. After they were completely dry, I put rubber self-adhesive automotive door trim on the bottom edge of the tank collars; about $5.00 at auto parts store. My thinking was that as soon as I set them down on concrete or asphalt to get filled again, the paint on the bottom collar would get scratched and start rusting again. As for the rust stains on the box floor, I tried lots of different products. The best by far was Whink rust stain remover; $5.00 at the hardware store. Let it soak on the stain for about a minute and just wipe off. The stains were gone! However, DO NOT get it on your stainless steel screws. It says on the bottle not to use on stainless steel. I used Flitz metal polish on the stainless with some success. Everything looks like new now. We'll see how long it lasts. :roll:

 

[Cutwater28GG]

I toyed with an ali tank, mounted horizontal in the existing container. it would be larger but no backup capacity. bottom line for me was the high cost.

 

[TBates]

Hello,

The product we use here at the factory for removing rust/stains is called: 'Crc Mary Kate On & Off Hull & Bottom Cleaner Stain Remover.' It's safe to spray on the stainless steel and fiberglass, just not on anything aluminum. As noted above, the tanks will rust if not protected by paint, so you will want to make sure they are coated well.

Thank you,

-Tim

 

[griervictoria]

I have also have a 2014 R31S and have the same issue with rust and water. Can anyone tell me why there is always a small amount of water in the propane locker ? I know air is meant to get in to allow propane gas to vent if it leaks and there is a gap at the top where the hose goes through the transom. I have tried to block this space on a temporary basis while under way but it still leaks in.

 

[Red Raven]

There are drain holes in the bottom under the mounting board. The water can come up through there if the swim grid gets submerged. Should drain back out fairly quickly. If not the drain holes may be plugged with debris.

 

[Matty]

Might try a SeaDoo product XP-S that is an anti corrosive spray. Need to read carefully to see if you should avoid the supply lines. Being near SALT water I use it on many things.

 

[griervictoria]

My solenoid valve looked to be corroded and malfunctioned I am sure due to the salty air from the puddle of seawater which is always present in the propane locker. We were out cruising and unable to use the stove in the galley. Fortunately we were able to buy an inexpensive butane camp stove from Ace Harware in FRiday Hbr Wa. This allowed us to continue our trip using this and the BBQ
I unscrewed the whole locker and found that the 4 screws which fix the locker to the swimgrid had no calking and there was no visible drain hole as someone previously mentioned. I presumed that salt water just leaches up through the screw holes, so I cleaned out the rust debris from the propane tanks and allowed the locker and the screw holes to dry in the sun for most of a day. (A hair dryer or heat gun would speed up the process) I then used a butyl adhesive sealant (Ace Hardware) in re-attaching the locker with the original screws. After 2 weeks of poking around the San Juan Islands it is still dry in there. I will now clean up and paint the tanks.
Memo to Ranger Tugs, this seems to be a common fault that is reported by many owners.
It was also noted that these screws were in perfect shape with no rust after 4 years, so assume that good US steel was used here. However there are several other screws on the boat which rusted in the first year and stain the fiberglass. Chinese steel perhaps?

 

[Dale777]

I then used a butyl adhesive sealant (Ace Hardware) in re-attaching the locker with the original screws.

It appears that with the butyl adhesive you have now made the locker impervious to water entering from the bottom of the locker. But, since propane is heavier than air, it seems that the propane locker must have a drain hole in the bottom to allow any possible leaking propane to escape at the bottom. Thus, there is a dilemma in keeping the locker dry. Am I wrong?