Questions on Winterizing

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Bosn Mate

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Dec 23, 2015
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Fluid Motion Model
R-29 S
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2912I718
Vessel Name
Tingira
This will be my first time winterizing Tingira and have reviewed this site and the factory video. Excellent info but I have a few questions:

1. Seacocks - At the end of the video, I believe Andrew said that once winterizing is complete to open the seacocks in preparation for next season. I thought they should remain shut so the antifreeze remains. Should they be opened or closed?

2. Cockpit Icemaker - Is there a procedure for this? Assume water needs to be drained from the line.

3. Isotemp Spa Water Heater - What is the proper procedure? THe manual says just to drain it. Not sure if I have to run antifreeze through as part of winterizing the water system.

As always, I appreciate the information!
 
Hello.

I usually open the seacock when done so I don’t forget when it comes time for launching next season. If you use antifreeze in the system, it shouldn’t matter if they are left open or closed.

Regarding the ice maker, you might consider running potable water antifreeze through it and make pink ice cubes.

On the water heater, you can drain it but that depends on your method to winterize whether you are using air or potable water antifreeze.

Thank you,
 
Thanks Andrew; much appreciated!
 
I just completed the winterization of our R29S so this is fresh on my mind. I have always put RV winterization antifreeze in the water tank, enough to get into the hot water tank. I make sure both sinks, shower and transom door shower hose have the antifreeze come out of both the hot and cold water settings. I’ve always felt the need to winterize this way as I’m uncomfortable with the air method, but that’s just me. I’ve had to take the hose off of the Sea strainer to lift the AC pump hose higher then the strainer or pump, put a funnel in the hose and pour RV antifreeze in this way to winterize, with the AC unit running to cycle the antifreeze thru the system. If you have AC tell me if you did it differently.

Jim
 
Not sure if this is a recommended procedure, but I have AC on a 2014 C28, and read that the construction of the pump on an AC system allowed air and liquid to pass without damage in either direction. So I bought a $7 manual pump from Harbor Freight (the same kind I use to extract oil in an engine oil change), wrapped electrical tape around the exhaust tube of the pump to form a sort of plug, and inserted it into the AC Discharge thru-hull. With the sillcock open, I gently pumped air through and watched water come out the AC inlet/pickup (effectively backwashing the system with air). When no more water was coming out, I stuck the intake tube of the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze (-75 from WalMart, $~4) and pumped until pink came out of the AC inlet (this was all while on the trailer). I don’t remember if I used more than one gallon - but I made sure the discharge was deep pink. Then I went back a day later and pumped some more through for good measure in case there was any mixing of residual water.

I stored in an unheated barn in Ohio, so it definitely got to at least -10, and this spring the AC fired up no problem and no leaks.

Again, not sure if it is recommended, but it worked for me, cost just a few dollars, I could easily do it alone, and it only took a few minutes - also didn’t have to loosen any hose clamps!



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anybody have instructions for a device to pump water out of the hot water tank? I can't find the the thread on Tugnuts
 
There should be a drain valve at the bottom of the hot water tank. Let the water drain out, it should end up in the bilge.
 
Here's another newbie question on winterizing...we're putting our R29CB up this winter in an indoor Boatel to avoid most of the winterizing issues with storing outdoors. However, I have two questions and that I'm hoping I can get some advice...

1 - should the batteries be physically disconnected or can I simply just turn off the two batteries switches out in the cockpit? I was advised to see if the storage facility could set up a trickle charger but that capability isn't available.
2 - Is there anything that needs to be done with the Solar panel and its electronics during winter storage? I usually don't touch this as it has been a pretty much a passive device and so far hasn't required any attention on my part .

Thanks for the advice,
Tom
 
Hi Tom: if your R29CB is the newer style it would be a major project to disconnect the 5 batteries in the port locker, not sure about the R29 Classic. We have AGM’s on our newer style R29 and I leave the batteries in the boat. I also turn the battery switches to the off position as well as take many of the spade fuses out. Fuses like the bulge pumps, water pump, volt meter..... basically anything that could get turned on and left on that is directly connected to the batteries or something like a bulge sump pumps that I’ve had come on all by itself!If you have the classic R29 and the batteries are reasonably easy to disconnect you might do that, take them home and put a charge on them every couple of months. When disconnecting batteries I zip tie each terminals cables together and assign a number to it that corresponds to the battery it goes to.

Hope this helps,

Jim
 
In Bosn Mate's post above he expresses a concern that leaving the seacock open over winter storage will allow escape of antifreeze (from the raw water side of the system). One needs to consider the role of adding antifreeze the fresh water and raw water systems. The idea is to run sufficient antifreeze through to flush out all water which would otherwise freeze during cold conditions. That is, one runs antifreeze through the systems until the outflow is pink (full strength antifreeze). Now that water has been flushed out, the antifreeze serves no further purpose. Any escape does not matter. Escape simply creates an air space which will not freeze. I have years of experience winterizing an RV and several years now, my Ranger. The final step in my winterizing process is to use air to blow out as much antifreeze as possible. This way, less flushing is required in the spring.
 
Thanks Jim, that helps a lot. we have a 2018 R29CB so it would be very difficult to get those batteries out. Good advice on pulling the fuses that you mentioned. I'm assuming nothing needs to be done with the solar panel

Tom
 
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