R-21 (2005) battery setup and charging

[SlackwaterJack]

Hi,

My '05 R-21 is set up with a Guest 6 amp charger and a BalMar Digital Duo-Charge. The Balmar installation instructions show only a 2 battery setup WITHOUT an "off/1/2/both" selector switch. But my boat has a selector switch...is that correct? or was this something that the previous owner added on his own? Judging by the amount of jury rig wiring the PO performed when he self installed some accessories (for example: an unfused wash down pump was tapped into the running lights) it wouldn't surprise me. I spent a lot of time the last few days properly supporting and tying-up loose wiring.

I'm planning on relocating the batteries from their present location inside the engine cover and want to know if I should remove the selector switch (located in the starboard pilothouse cabinet) while I'm at it or replace it with a locking off/on switch so I can shut off DC power to everything including the engine (not the bilge pump or accessories with memory).


Just curious...
Whose idea was it to require the removal of the batteries to reach the water intake shut-off valve (to even see if it's open or closed !) or to inspect/adjust the shaft packing? Also, the charger/and Balmar units aren't supposed to be installed where temps might exceed 120deg, when charging, batteries give of hydrogen gas (boom!) and they also don't like heat, plus all that short/spark/flash hazard is beside the fuel tank in a small enclosed space...or am I just paranoid?!

 

[rt11002003]

Things are packed closely on these R-21s. My EC model has similar issues to your R-21. It's typical of small boats. My Albin 27 AC had similar restrictions when things like the fuel tanks and the electric water heater were stuffed up under the decks, behind other components. The engine and most other items were in the engine compartment under the cockpit with a bilge below that. Everything was a long, long reach.

At least I have the small panel behind the engine box to access the stuffing box, but the bilge pump is a long, cramped reach. Why don't they mount them on a sliding panel? 🙁

During a recent service, the tech had to remove the batteries to check the prop shaft alignment. Added almost two hours to the job and it wasn't padded-I was present when the job was done; the guy worked hard and fast.

The first R-21 I looked at had a battery selector switch. The second one was the one I bought, a 2009 EC model. It doesn't have a selector switch. However, it does have a house battery circuit switch under the helm and a separate switch for the thruster up under the V-berth on the starboard side. The engine circuit is wired thru the key switch. I haven't looked at the electrical diagram recently, but I think the house circuit is wired separately from the engine circuit to prevent running the engine starting battery down.

You might consider wiring your boat like the new ECs, then you'd have a wiring diagram. Just a thought. 🙂 You could draw your own diagram.

Gene

 

[SlackwaterJack]

Hi Gene,
I think the electrical system of the EC is so much different that I can't really use it as a model. It's so much more complex and includes a lot more demand like a frig and bow thrusters, stove, more lights, air cond,.....Kinda like rewiring a stock 37 ford using the schematic for an '09... both have 12v, neg ground, battery

I also an Albin (A-25). It had the same engine as my R-21 (after I re-powered). It also had an enclosed head, fridge, stove, 2 sinks with hot and cold water, an aft cabin etc.. 20gal fuel on the portside and two group 27's on the starboard,
Still, all critical systems were accessable, especially the ones that kept the boat floating and running.
My points are several:
---Batteries and they're support systems don't like to be subjected to high heat and the engine compartment isn't where they belong ... relatively easy fix, but would have been nice if it came with the batteries elsewhere. The EC still has them there.
---Fuel really shouldn't be slow cooked either, the EC has relocated the tank...good
---The placement of systems that should remain fixed in place (and undisturbed) on top of critical safety and maintenance items like raw water shutoff and the packing gland is not good. You need to be able to observe the operation of the packing while underway to assess it's condition. Hiding the water shutoff just makes it impossible to actually use it like it is supposed to be used. It also requires the removal of a lot of stuff to shut it off in the event of a hose break. Not to mention the risk of damaging fuel lines etc...

Don't get me wrong I still think the Ranger is great and there were things that drove me completely NUTZ on the Albin too (and the S2, and the Hunter, and the Adventure Craft, etc.....) such is the nature of boats. I knew the R-21's short comings long before I bought it and knew I could correct them and I will. Heck, even if I get lazy and only move the batteries it is already the favourite boat I've ever owned.

It's also one of the few boats I've owned that was still in production when I owned it, and it's definitely the only one I ever owned where the builder actually has its customer service act together and genuinely gives a darn about it's customers.

 

[rt11002003]

Well Slackwater Jack,

I can't find anything to disagree with you about. 😀 I've been more fortunate in owning boats still in production, a Ranger (sailboat) 22 in 1977, a Sanata 20, a Lindenberg 22, a S2 7.9, a Laser, a Sunfish, an Ultimate 20 and a J80. None of those manufacturers provided the support that Ranger Tugs provides, though S2 came very close.

Gene

 

[SlackwaterJack]

Here's an interesting story .... The S2 I owned was a 30 ft aft cockpit, and was cutter rigged (2 headsails). The headsails and main were all roller furled and because it was so easy to get the sails in and out I seldom used the engine (15 hp Yanmar) other than to enter and exit the slip. I noticed that she ran smoother in reverse than in forward with much less trans noise, was unable to get over 5 knots in forward gear. She was purchased from the second owner and it was 18 years old when I bought it. I owned it for 5 years and maybe put only 10 hours on the engine, and had the trans checked a couple of times and it was always given a clear bill of health. I didn't worry about it.
When I finally sold it and had it hauled for the survey I happened to be chatting with an old (musta been 85) boatyard wag and mentioned the trans problem. Without a pause he told me that that S2 was originally available with either a Yanmar or a Volvo diesel. that they turned in different directions at the shaft and it was possible that the wrong prop was installed by the builder...sure enough the prop (still original) was checked and it was the wrong prop. The boat had been in reverse going forward since the day she was launched!

 

[Andrew Custis]

The seacock is hard to reach on the non EC models. I can turn it on and off without removing anything. I might get a little fiberglass sliver but can be done.

 

[SlackwaterJack]

Thanks Andrew,
But my short chubby arms and their stubby little hands sure couldn't reach, So to solve that, I used those same short chubbies and stubbies to move the fuel tank to the stern locker, and then moved the batteries to the spot where the tank used to be (a la the EC). Problem solved. job took about 4 hours (and some new longer fuel lines). Now I can see the valve, watch the packing gland, clean the bilge pump, and I got my big happy grin back too. Next bilge related project is to fabricate a 10 foot length of hose to attach to the engine flush tee as an "emergency" bilge pump...I can then shut the thruhull valve and attach the hose to the engine flush tee to remove water with the engines raw water pump if the 12v pump quits. It can also be used over the side if the regular water intake gets plugged up by ingesting a plastic bag or other flotsam.

As a winter project I'm considering taking a 20in.(ish) section out of the center of the engine cover, welding an aluminum arch to internally support the center join and to top mount hinges for the now 2 piece cover. The arch will be bolted into the engine bed. This will have the front (engine)cover hinging back and the rear(battery) cover hinging forward. The now shorter (EC sized) cover will give me a nice spot in the cockpit to make a cradle (made of King Star Board) to hold a cooler. simply moving the cooler will expose the packing/valve/pump. I'll tailor the hight of the cooler cradle so the cooler top is flush with the engine cover top. That way the original seat cushion can still be used without alteration. I've added a diagram of the changes to my album

My other question concerned the BalMar Digital Duo-Charge... My boat has a 1/2/both/off selector, but the schematic in the manual for the BalMar doesn't show a selector switch. In what position do I leave the switch as "normal" and what do I select to have the house battery assist the starting battery should it need a boost?

 

[rt11002003]

Usually position #1 is for engine start, and # 2 is for the house. Use "Both" if the start battery is low and you need to start the main engine. Use "Both" when cruising using main engine, that should allow the alternator to charge both batteries. Use "Off" when away from boat. Do NOT use "Both" without the main engine running, you may find yourself without any battery power.

I'm sure you will get responses that are different from mine. Not all vessels are wired the same, but you already knew that, didn't you? 😉

Gene

 

[SlackwaterJack]

That's for sure... each one has that little bit of difference from its' sisters...keeps it interesting 😉 .

My question has more to do with whether the "BalMar digital duo charge" effects what the battery selector switch's postion should be (or if it even matters) for the Balmar's proper operation . As I understand it... the Duo charger senses when a Battery is fully charged and then switches to the other Battery....but, is that affected by the Battery selector switches postion?
The BalMar manual makes quite a bit about how, "the selector switch is too prone to mistakes", and how the balmar does it all automatically, but doesn't show a selector switch in its installation schematic ( either being removed, bypassed or incorporated into the system).
Any ideas Andrew?