R-23 engine pod bilge pump

[SgtAlf]

I had the engine pod bilge pump installed a couple of years ago. I hadn't thought much about it until lately. I popped open the inspection plate and found the pod half full of water. I checked the fuse, blown. I didn't have a 7.5, so I installed a 10 until I could get some 7.5's. Got the 7.5, went to replace the 10, and the 7.5 blew. I checked the 10 and it was blown. OK, lets try a 15, the pump sounded like it came to life, but only for a second. I pulled the fuse and tried again, several times. Same result. I checked the wires, what I could see looked good. I pulled the pump body and didn't find anything that might be jamming the impeller.
Question, is there a switch that controls this pump? It appears to be hard wired to the house battery. Anyone suffer a similar problem? What could be causing this pump to be blowing 7.5 amp fuses?
Thank you,

 

[CruisingElvinRay]

The switch for my factory-installed Pod bilge pump is next to the raw water wash down switch. There must be a short somewhere causing the fist to blow. Upping the size of the fuse is rarely a good idea. The fuse is doing what it is supposed to do.

I would jumper the pump to the battery and see if it runs that way, just to test the pump itself.


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[DMD3]

You’ve got a short somewhere in the circuit. Increasing the current rating on the fuse will eventually compromise the conductors and/or insulation (possible fire hazard). If it were me I’d start by testing the pump motor itself by isolating it from the control circuit and powering directly with 12vdc (make sure an appropriate fuse is in the temp circuit). If the pump motor works then you hav a short somewhere else in the control circuit. Check all conductors, terminations, splices, etc for any foreign object that may form a short in the circuit (strand of wire, foreign object that made its way into the block, etc). Also check for pinched conductors working your way methodically back from the pump terminals all the way to power source. If you have an ohm meter it will come in handy to ring out the circuit. Hope this helps.

Also, bilge pump is basically hardwired to batteries as they should always be at the ready to go to work. Control switch, I believe, simply overrides the float switch putting it into continuous mode of operation.

 

[Capt’nKarl]

The engine pod bilge pump on our R-23 has been disabled ( because of what you’ve experienced). The original access hatch was replaced with a water tight hatch so now water in the pod is not an issue. It drains out of the starboard port in the pod. Make sure the pod drain is clear.

 

[Chimo]

The engine pod bilge pump on our R-23 has been disabled ( because of what you’ve experienced). The original access hatch was replaced with a water tight hatch so now water in the pod is not an issue. It drains out of the starboard port in the pod. Make sure the pod drain is clear.

Just academic interest. I’m not sure what you’re saying and I’m not trying to be a smart a**. If the hatch is now water tight and no water can get in the pod, how is there a need for it to drain? Is there any way to check for water in the pod? Does the new hatch allow that? I’m always interested in hull design modifications.

Thanks

 

[Capt’nKarl]

On our 2018 R-23 we have a water tight hatch plate located close to the top just right of center in the engine pod. This hatch plate screws down tightly but is removable so you can check inside the engine pod.The original hatch plate was not water tight and allowed a lot of water to enter the inside of the pod. The hatch plate hole was put there to access the bilge pump. It was recommended to change the original hatch cover to the water tight cover because the bilge pump inside the pod kept failing and it was very difficult to access the pump to change it out. There is a small drain in the lower starboard area of the pod similar to the drains in the port and starboard lazarets. Finally there is a large drain opening on the starboard side of the pod above the water line. When water does get into the inside of the pod it drains out through the large opening thus my comment to make sure the outside pod drain is clear. Hopefully this answers your question.
Cheers.

 

[SgtAlf]

"Just academic interest. I’m not sure what you’re saying and I’m not trying to be a smart a**. If the hatch is now water tight and no water can get in the pod, how is there a need for it to drain? Is there any way to check for water in the pod? Does the new hatch allow that? I’m always interested in hull design modifications."

My R-23 didn't come with a water tight hatch and would fill up with water. RT added the bilge pump and water tight hatch as a warranty repair. Some water still gets in, but now my bilge pump is not working.

 

[Andrew Custis]

Hello,

I have seen other items be the cause for water getting in such as the hydraulic lines going into the pod as well as the rigging tube. I would suggest putting a bead of silicone around the rig tube and pulling the hydraulic line fitting to make sure that is sealed in nicely. I would also suggest emptying the pod of water and checking to see if it leaks sitting static in the water. If it does, it may be something to do with the pod itself where it seals onto the boat.

For the bilge pump, I wouldn't jump right into a short in the system. I have seen many bilge pumps go bad in my time and 90% of the time, it is the actual pump that has a short in it.

Hope it is something simple and, if you need further assistance, please call our main office and select customer service. If you dont reach them, leave a message and they will return the call.

Thank you,

 

[NwRecon]

On my recently purchased 2018 R23 I had the same issue. Boat came from Texas and has only 117 hours on it. After transport back to the PNW, I found a few things Inop (in operable). One was the engine pod bilge pump. The engine battery was also bad and the ground cables were not even finger tight. After replacing the battery and cleaning and tightening all cables, I could hear a buzzing sound coming from the pod area, but the outboard also has a buzzing noise if the key is turned on. I was able to get the inspection cover off (screw in type with a small seal). I hosed out the pod and got the water level half way up the pump and turned the switch on and a call to RT. Still buzzing only. I tapped on the pump (old Fonzie trick for starters and alternators) and no change. I continued to spray more water in and the I heard a clog pop loose and out came a strong stream of water from the discharge port. Happy dance! Pumped it out and more hosing. Turn off and back on and all working good now.

The inspection cover was very hard to get the threads started again. I took my little wire brush and cleaned the threads on the lid and housing. I used a little silicone spray lube on the lid threads and it screwed right in no trouble and I believe the seal seated again.

The large plastic tube was also not fasten tightly to the engine. Looks like two halves held together with a flimsy little zip- tie. I suspect water was entering through the flex tube. I used a large (1/4 inch wide) HD zip-tie to secure it better. After a week of learning/testing things on the trailer, I can see the true value of a two-day factory delivery experience. Hopefully we will hit the water this week.

 

[DMD3]

Cool, yeah locked rotor but did not blow fuse, correct? Hence the buzzing, not a "bolted fault" as they say. Locked rotor can sit and hum almost indefinitely. I just performed the "Fonzie" trick on my pool filter... felt pretty cool but no one was watching. 😎 No idea how long it was stuck like that. When the fuse goes instantly that's indicative of zero-impedance current flow shooting infinitely high, a direct short. Could be in the pump motor or control circuit, likely in the controls, however I did recently have an AC compressor pump fail this way (big sparks!) . Fuses/breakers are sized to protect the conductors and insulation as to prevent heat and fire, not so much the actual devices as the conductors would burn first with an oversized fuse.