sleepyboat":1xgkjpty said:
As I see it, the only guidance needed would be if you had studied laminar flow in advanced science or physics class.
Yes, there's no disagreement from me, as I'm an aerospace engineer (retired but still consult on Computational Fluid Dynamics - CFD). My early career was in the aerodynamics sections. I worked for a company in the UK that wanted to develop a means to control laminar flow over airplane wings. The resulting design was a series of pumps inside the aircraft that were used to suck off the laminar flow areas on the wings through tiny span-wise slots with the hope of reducing the wing generated drag. It was a great idea and well in advance of the times. Unfortunately, In practice the pump apparatus etc made the aircraft to heavy and so the effort was abandoned.
Air flow and water flow share many similarities. The big difference between the two is that while air is compressible, water is not; at least it takes a huge amount of pressure to compress water compared to air.
Laminar flow has received a lot of attention over the years. Aircraft surfaces were
long ago dotted with rivet heads which protruded into the lamina flow areas. Over time manufacturing techniques were introduced to make rivets heads flush to the surfaces with the intent of reducing drag. Lamina flow and Turbulent flow are interesting to study with regards to 'drag' on any slender body traveling through air or water. You may notice that on some aircraft wings there are small tabs sticking up from the wing surface; these are strategically placed to promote air turbulence and help reduce wing generated drag.
I'll stop here as this really is no place to get into the CFD area for the R-23's laminar flow interrupter dimples. However, it's my background as an aerodynamicist that prompted my OP.
sleepyboat":1xgkjpty said:
As discussed in a previous post if you keep your boat in the water for any length (more than a month I believe) you should paint the bottom. With any bottom paint, directions call for thin coats of paint and not sloppy thick. The purpose of the indents is to create bubbles that ride the hull like ball bearings, making the hull more slippery. I have to believe the calculations for the effectiveness of this design would have to come from a marine architect.
Yes, applying thin coats of bottom paint would seem to be the right approach to avoid lowering the effect of the R-23's laminar flow interrupter dimples.
sleepyboat":1xgkjpty said:
Personally, I just enjoy my 23 and hope the bubble do too.
John
:lol: for sure.
