r-27 OB wire paths
- Thread starter Red-27
- Start date
- Status
Pandion
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2020
- Messages
- 113
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 (Outboard)
- Vessel Name
- Pandion
This may be easier than you expect.
On our '21 R27OB (built in mid '20), there is an unused wire running from one of the fuse blocks behind the helm to at least the cabin ceiling under the mast. It was for the spotlight that used to be on earlier models. I believe it is tagged " spotlight" on our fuse block.
On our boat, we can access the wire bundle running to mast by removing the narrow teak ceiling panel in the cabin. Just loosen the eight or so screws and the panel will drop down. There is a cabin light in the panel so you won't be able to take it all the way down unless you cut the wires to the light. I just hang the panel out of the way with some wire. I don't recall exactly but I think the unused spotlight wire may have been coiled above that panel and before the mast wires exited the cabin roof.
If your boat is the same, it should be pretty straightforward to run that wire out the roof and up the mast for your light.
On our '21 R27OB (built in mid '20), there is an unused wire running from one of the fuse blocks behind the helm to at least the cabin ceiling under the mast. It was for the spotlight that used to be on earlier models. I believe it is tagged " spotlight" on our fuse block.
On our boat, we can access the wire bundle running to mast by removing the narrow teak ceiling panel in the cabin. Just loosen the eight or so screws and the panel will drop down. There is a cabin light in the panel so you won't be able to take it all the way down unless you cut the wires to the light. I just hang the panel out of the way with some wire. I don't recall exactly but I think the unused spotlight wire may have been coiled above that panel and before the mast wires exited the cabin roof.
If your boat is the same, it should be pretty straightforward to run that wire out the roof and up the mast for your light.
Submariner
Channel Surfing
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2020
- Messages
- 1,603
- Location
- Everett, WA
- Website
- www.letsgochannelsurfing.com
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 (Outboard)
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2702C021
- Non-Fluid Motion Model
- https://tinyurl.com/yrv84xdm
- Vessel Name
- Channel Surfing
- MMSI Number
- 368187810
On my 2021 RT 27-OB, there is already 12volt DC at the base of the mast for a spotlight. So all that needs to be done is to route the electrical through the base of the mast, out the clamshell, and up onto the mast.
Pull down the center teak in the ceiling. You'll see the wires' as they're bundled neatly, with butt connectors on them. They are labeled "spot light" on the wires. They are hot, as I've put a volt meter across them. I'm planning on using this power for Internet for the boat. Saves me a cable run. 🙂
Pull down the center teak in the ceiling. You'll see the wires' as they're bundled neatly, with butt connectors on them. They are labeled "spot light" on the wires. They are hot, as I've put a volt meter across them. I'm planning on using this power for Internet for the boat. Saves me a cable run. 🙂
Annie Time
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2010
- Messages
- 136
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2710F819
- Vessel Name
- Annie Time
I did run several new wires to the mast our my 2018 R27OB. The path is as Martin describes above. Down from the mast, through the fiber glass mast mount, then through the roof of the cabin, ( it’s a bit tricky to make it through this path with out removing the mast fiber glass mount) then down the middle of the cabin ceiling to the Starboard side of the mid cabin where everything comes down behind the wall with the porthole, then runs forward to the dash area under the engine controls console. The wall with the porthole comes off with a handful of screws removed, as does the center teak cover in the ceiling. It was a lot of work but very rewarding to have the same path as the original wiring.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Annie Time
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2010
- Messages
- 136
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2710F819
- Vessel Name
- Annie Time
BTW removing the table, makes getting the starboard wall off much easier.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Submariner
Channel Surfing
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2020
- Messages
- 1,603
- Location
- Everett, WA
- Website
- www.letsgochannelsurfing.com
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 (Outboard)
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2702C021
- Non-Fluid Motion Model
- https://tinyurl.com/yrv84xdm
- Vessel Name
- Channel Surfing
- MMSI Number
- 368187810
Red-27":1barx2fb said:
I have some pictures showing the path from when I ran the Nema2k for the GPS 24XD antenna.
How to run from centerline to the starboard side.
https://www.letsgochannelsurfing.co...kxcqzo6u-a93d584b-6977-470f-b7de-46d3e33db37a
Out the dinette starboard light
https://www.letsgochannelsurfing.co...kxcqzo6u-91991ebc-1614-422c-8bd1-7189dcadf746
To access the Nema2k bus, take out the chartplotter and the 4 switch panel.
https://www.letsgochannelsurfing.co...kxcqzo6u-d87ff1f6-d6dd-4784-9eaa-2b672002ad63
The pathway is centerline to starboard (out the light). Take the starboard port-hole out (it's just for decoration). That'll open up the vertical raceway which will drop down into the cave. From there, you push the cable forward to come in under the helm seat. Then up and around the seat underneath the throttle assembly, then up to and into the helm controls behind the chart plotter.
I didn't have to take the starboard wall off, as I was able to get down in the cave and had the cable pulled from top to bottom. There were some removable pieces in the cave that opened up the starboard outboard, up by all the cables, that I was able to remove to access the cables.
Thank you!
That is just what i needed to know. i am also planning on doing the auto trimtabs whenever they are off backorder although i need to place the sensor somewhere else since the AC unit takes up all the under bench space.
That is just what i needed to know. i am also planning on doing the auto trimtabs whenever they are off backorder although i need to place the sensor somewhere else since the AC unit takes up all the under bench space.
Submariner
Channel Surfing
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2020
- Messages
- 1,603
- Location
- Everett, WA
- Website
- www.letsgochannelsurfing.com
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 (Outboard)
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2702C021
- Non-Fluid Motion Model
- https://tinyurl.com/yrv84xdm
- Vessel Name
- Channel Surfing
- MMSI Number
- 368187810
Red-27":1h794ybx said:
You're welcome.
I'd be interested to know where you end up putting the Autoglide controller on an LE. I'd also like to see a picture of the helm seat removed on an LE to see what the air conditioner looks like installed.
Autoglide is a fantastic upgrade. It's the #1 upgrade I did that totally exceeded my expectations in every way.
Jazzsea
Active member
- Joined
- May 3, 2021
- Messages
- 26
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2740K122
- Vessel Name
- Tortuga
Red-27":355h5wfh said:
Red-27, Have you had the seat off? The control board doesn't look that big. I'm waiting for a unit myself, and was relying on Martin's step by step....Uh oh! Let's keep in touch on this.
https://imgur.com/a/flFRXFk
This is how it looked when i took the seat off. the dust seems to be where they drilled the holes for the seats. they also never installed the filter in the AC and there doesn't seem to be a way to get it in now. i cant say im to happy about both not having a filter and the inside having alot of fiberglass dust. as you can see theres no space to put in the auto trim tab sensor. my current plan is to put it in the cave and put a cage around it so nothing i store in there can slide into it and damage it.
This is how it looked when i took the seat off. the dust seems to be where they drilled the holes for the seats. they also never installed the filter in the AC and there doesn't seem to be a way to get it in now. i cant say im to happy about both not having a filter and the inside having alot of fiberglass dust. as you can see theres no space to put in the auto trim tab sensor. my current plan is to put it in the cave and put a cage around it so nothing i store in there can slide into it and damage it.
Submariner
Channel Surfing
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2020
- Messages
- 1,603
- Location
- Everett, WA
- Website
- www.letsgochannelsurfing.com
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 (Outboard)
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2702C021
- Non-Fluid Motion Model
- https://tinyurl.com/yrv84xdm
- Vessel Name
- Channel Surfing
- MMSI Number
- 368187810
Red-27":2730gqcg said:
WOW! This helps, a lot!! Thank you for posted this picture.
Submariner
Channel Surfing
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2020
- Messages
- 1,603
- Location
- Everett, WA
- Website
- www.letsgochannelsurfing.com
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 (Outboard)
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2702C021
- Non-Fluid Motion Model
- https://tinyurl.com/yrv84xdm
- Vessel Name
- Channel Surfing
- MMSI Number
- 368187810
johnbenj":26kbrj0d said:
The mount came with 3M double sided sticky tape. I just cleaned the top of the fiberglass to make sure it was free of dirt/debris, and stuck it there.
If you zoom in on this picture, you can see the 3M sticky tape that came with the mount.
https://www.letsgochannelsurfing.co...kxcqzo6u-7688e2bd-f788-43bf-9c37-19e772983c7a
- Status