R23 port side trim tab stopped working

[simonp]

It is in the down position and makes no noises or movement when pushing the button up or down.

The starboard side works fine. Any advise on troubleshooting the problem would be great.

Cheers

 

[Wee Venture]

The fact that only one side is out helps to troubleshoot. Could be the switch but unlikely if it won’t work in either direction. I would want to make sure I was getting power to the common pole on the double throw switch.

This happened to me one time and the fix was simply to unplug and firmly plug back together the cable connector next to the hydraulic pump. I was going to put dielectric grease on it but didn’t get around to it and it has been working just fine for three years now. Seems also like I remember reading somewhere in the documentation not to put grease on the connectors but I could be wrong about that.

John

 

[simonp]

Thanks for the reply John.

Are the trim tabs on the R23 electric? There is a wire that goes from the top of the actuator through the hull into the port lazarette, and then straight up behind a panel so I cant really get to it.

I also tried to pull the switches off at the helm so I could swap the wires and see it the other one stops working, but I couldn't get the switches off from the top. I wonder if they are fastened from below.

Simon

 

[CruisingElvinRay]

I did a video on removing the refrigerator to access the trim tab connections. Maybe it will help.

https://youtu.be/CItpMGAsCcc


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[Wee Venture]

Are the trim tabs on the R23 electric? There is a wire that goes from the top of the actuator through the hull into the port lazarette, and then straight up behind a panel so I cant really get to it.

My mistake. I shouldn’t make assumptions about models different than my own. They are probably electric, especially if there are wires going to the actuators (and no hydraulic pump). If there are cable connectors, I would still want to check them though, as well as checking for voltage as close to the actuator as possible.

John

 

[CruisingElvinRay]

They are electric


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[forfun1960]

On my 23 I unplugged the cylinder and put 12 v power to the leads which should make it operate. You will find the plug just inside the rear hatch near the trim tab. It has a really long cord so was easy to do but even with 12 v power to the leads couldn't get it to operate so I replaced which fixed it. I took the old one apart and found that water had gotten inside.

 

[Someday*]

On my 23 I unplugged the cylinder and put 12 v power to the leads which should make it operate. You will find the plug just inside the rear hatch near the trim tab. It has a really long cord so was easy to do but even with 12 v power to the leads couldn't get it to operate so I replaced which fixed it. I took the old one apart and found that water had gotten inside.

What do you use for the 12 v power?

 

[forfun1960]

I used a spare 12v battery I had in the shop.

 

[Diatom]

Same issue on 2012 C26 yesterday. In my case sudden failure of Bennett port side switch (actuates starboard tab) to effect bow-down, progressed to complete failure of port side switch, either direction. Switch discernibly spongy, not "clicking" normally. Obviously suspected switch failure, popped off the cowling & pried out the rockers: issue is weak point in conventional Bennett switch: a thin plastic rod extending down from rocker toggles actual DPDT switch, rod breaks off at rocker (rocker/rod are single molded piece). Jerry-rigged replacement rockers with 10Ga wire, stripped & taped where inserted to replace broken rod to get a compression fit, unstripped & looped to create fingertip controls in place of rocker. Looks ridiculous, works perfectly - pending arrival of replacement switch.

/tmm