R27 Inboard Prop removal

[tincup]

Using Acme puller and ball peen hammer been unable to free prop. My question is does the key need to be removed first? If so how do I get enough purchase

 

[BB marine]

The acme works good if you remove the prop often. If the prop has been on for a few seasons between dissimilar metal stainless/ bronze and the force of the prop being driven on the taper the acme doesn't work that well. Don't get to aggressive with it you can damage the thrust bearings in the transmission. I made a puller, works good easy design. I have photos in my album. Key comes off after prop is removed.

 

[tincup]

Thanks. Really like ur puller. What are the plates made of? Care to sell one?

Also is BB authorized volvo Penta servicer. Where located?

 

[tugnnaweigh]

Tightening a puller and then hammering on it's shaft is proper procedure but the pull after a props been on a while often needs heat; so you crank on the puller some but not too much, heat the prop and tap the puller.

The heat source needs to be of sufficient BTUs so it warms the prop quickly, just a few minutes at most, you don't want heat migrating up the shaft. We're not talking a heat gun blowing hot air, we're talking a blue or white flame of good size and keep it moving around the prop on the outside in the areas that contact the shaft.

If I think it's going to be a tough pull, I'll wrap the shaft with a wet cloth up a ways from the prop.

 

[knotflying]

I have an R-27 and have pulled the prop a few times using this puller. https://www.getaprop.com/prop-puller/prop-puller-103-1.50-shafts

 

[BB marine]

Thanks. Really like ur puller. What are the plates made of? Care to sell one?

Also is BB authorized volvo Penta servicer. Where located?

I only have the one I made. Here is a link with description of 2 DIY pullers. Knotflying has a puller he purchased from west marine that works on the Tugs. info in post below. The clearance between the prop and the log on my boat is 3/4". Many standard prop pullers are tight to fit.


viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8783&p=61317&hilit=prop+puller#p61059


viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10015&p=69368&hilit=prop+puller#p69006

Not a Volvo servicer, just a boat owner like you.

 

[gottogetfishing]

Not to hijack the thread but when reinstalling the prop is there a torque setting for our R27 inboards? :?:

 

[Hydraulicjump]

and here is the link to my expletive-laced efforts to remove the prop with a gear puller:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5018&p=37222&hilit=gear+puller#p37222

 

[knotflying]

Not to hijack the thread but when reinstalling the prop is there a torque setting for our R27 inboards? :?:

I can't answer for a specific torque, but once you thighten the nut you gave to line up the notches to plce the cotter pin in. Hence, you can only tighten so much before you lose alignment. Also, the shaft is tapered so when you are in forward thrust the prop is actually forced onto the shaft tighter. A loose nut would result in the prop pulling from the shaft in reverse. After pulling the prop a couple of times I would say worrying about proper torque is minor.

 

[BB marine]

The key is tighten it tight enough to seat the prop on the taper. When I install a prop I spray a light coat of CRC penetrating oil on the shaft. I then slowly spin the prop on the shaft to feel for high spot catches. You want full contact of prop to shaft. Once this if achieved push the prop on the shaft hard. Mark the location on the shaft. Now install the key and repeat. The prop should land in the same location with key installed. If not clean the key and keyway, repeat. If the prop lands on the mark now remove the prop and put a thin layer of anti corrosive grease on the shaft ( this will fill any small voids in the shaft and reduce crevice corrosion. Install prop, tighten prop nut. Once the prop moves slightly over the mark on shaft ( this is called draw, some larger props or couplings have a specific dimension for draw).The prop is pushed on the taper. On my 1.25 shaft this number is 100 lbs. As I am approaching 100 ft lbs I keep watching for cotter pin alignment with hole in the shaft and the marked line. I stop when I see alignment of hole and slight draw over the line. I use 100 ft lbs. has my base number.

 

[gottogetfishing]

Thanks Guys, great information as always.. Now we can pull and replace our prop with confidence. 😀

 

[YukonRon]

BB, what anti-corrosive grease do you use that is safe for marine use with dissimilar metals?

 

[BB marine]

BB, what anti-corrosive grease do you use that is safe for marine use with dissimilar metals?

Mercury Marine quicksilver anti corrosion grease. I have used it for years on prop shafts. Good stuff ,It is hard to find because Mercury marine uses only one grease for everything now 2-4-C. I use 2-4-C on the rudder shaft also good product. I think Amazon still sells Quicksilver anti corrosion grease. I use it on the threads of thruster anode screws, drain plug threads, packing gland threads, any removable components that are in contact with seawater.

 

[YukonRon]

Thanks Brian. I use the Merc 2-4-C for my rudder shaft too. I'll have to look for the anti-corrosion version too.