r27ob windlass power

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Jcat2010

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Sep 4, 2022
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176
Fluid Motion Model
R-27 (Outboard)
Vessel Name
Barchetta
HI New to the r27ob world. Ive seen info indicating the windlass takes its power from the thruster battery. I've also seen schematic from the manual that indicates the windlass takes power from the house battery (r27 power distribution - windlass breaker fed off house battery switch). Has anyone rung this circuit out to determine which it truly is ? Or, is it different from year to year (2020 is the one I'm concerned about) ?
 
Jcat2010":3a1pw2ws said:
HI New to the r27ob world. Ive seen info indicating the windlass takes its power from the thruster battery. I've also seen schematic from the manual that indicates the windlass takes power from the house battery (r27 power distribution - windlass breaker fed off house battery switch). Has anyone rung this circuit out to determine which it truly is ? Or, is it different from year to year (2020 is the one I'm concerned about) ?

The windlass comes off the house bank by default. At least on my 2021 model it does, factory standard.
 
Older boats (aka our 2009 R-25 Classic) had the windlass powered by the thruster battery.
By 2017 (our C-28) Fluid Motion had moved the windlass to draw power from the house bank.
I think it’s safe to assume that if you turn the house rotary switch to OFF the windlass won’t work on your 2020.
Frankly I preferred the windlass getting power from a thruster+windlass dedicated battery. I don’t like the power hungry windlass sucking all the life out of my house bank!
 
Yep. Checked it today. House powered. Agree, power hungryl, deep draw,, loads should be off thruster. Guess I'll be rewiring that load soon. New to me boat, making the list.
 
When the engine is running and the ACRs close, everything is drawing off the alternator, and then all the batteries are in parallel if the alternator can't supply the load, so just because it is attached to one battery, it isn't drawing from that single one.

Honest question, but why are you operating your windlass without the engine on? Aren't you normally motoring towards the rode in the water?
 
Not operating windlass without outboard running, normally. Haven't looked at the details yet, amps draw of windlass, vs outboard at slow(low amps from stator), but my past boats had windlass off non-house battery, and older rangers had it off thruster. Have to ask ranger why the change.
 
Question about the alternator for the experts. We run the windlass, both anchor up and down, with our diesel engine running. But the engine is at idle at 700 rpm. The windlass is getting all its power from the house battery bank. I didn’t think the alternator was supplying much, if any, energy back to the house bank with the engine at idle. Is that not accurate?
 
scross":2kh98lnh said:
Question about the alternator for the experts. We run the windlass, both anchor up and down, with our diesel engine running. But the engine is at idle at 700 rpm. The windlass is getting all its power from the house battery bank. I didn’t think the alternator was supplying much, if any, energy back to the house bank with the engine at idle. Is that not accurate?
The current draw is so great from the windlass I’d expect the ACR’s to open due to voltage drop caused by the windlass load, thereby isolating the house from engine banks. This prevents the engine from helping.

What makes it worse is that you only use the windlass after a night at anchor, so expect your house bank to be low in charge anyway.

When Channel Surfing was factory stock, (NW edition) I ran into this a lot. I’d be pulling the anchor and LaZina would yell out the window to me that the chartplotter and vhf radio were rebooting. Low voltage alert would flash up on the chartplotter just before it’d power itself off.

I’d then run back and parallel the engine and the house bank, to bypass the engine to house acr. That allowed the engine current from the alternator to help run the windlass.

At low rpm’s, the alternators put out some power, but not a lot. I found some was better than none.

The windlass is around 900 watts. It’s a large load used for a shorter period of time.

I would never operate the windlass without the engine running regardless.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
https://d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/f ... oseACR.pdf

Assuming the ACRs closed before use, it takes 30 seconds of continuous low voltage before they should open back up. Maybe the difference I see is that the R31 has a 4 battery bank house system plus a diesel alternator that has a lot more current to offer than a 27 with 2 battery bank and a OB alternator.

To answer the question why Ranger did it, I suspect they felt they could run a larger gauge wire from the stern to the bow if they ran it off the house bank. The likelihood of running the bow thruster and windlass at the same time is high meaning they need to size the run to support both loads. WIth the house already supply behind the helm which is pretty close to the front, adding the windlass to that is easy.
 
Have run into this scenario on numerous vessels from Boston whaler, Everglades, cobia, and of course ranger/cutwater. A few years ago Blue Sea Systems revised the ACR design for exactly this reason but it seems most builders either aren't aware of it or are just ignorant to change. Just replace the standard ACR with the newer BatteryLink ACR and you can run a wire to either a new dedicated switch, or if you have a windlass power switch use that as the source for the "battery priority trigger". Once the button is pushed the ACR locks together down to a much lower voltage threshold 12.25v allowing everything to work, then when you're done retrieving ground tackle just turn it off and it's back to being a regular ACR.

If you have a dedicated switch to give power to the windlass switches it makes it completely seamless and straight forward.
 
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