R29 Classic Anchor Chain

Scottfree

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
150
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Vessel Name
Scottfree
Its time to replace my anchor chain and rode. I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 chain and 250 of 5/8 rode. That fills my locker. I was wondering if anyone with a Classic or similar anchor locker has successfully run all chain or more chain than me. What combinations were you able to use and what were the lengths or each. I would like to increase the amount of chain.

Thanks for your feedback, Leon
 
We have the same setup on our R-31CB - 100’ chain plus 250’ rope rode. I was told by the factory guys that that is about all the chain that we should put in the locker, considering both weight and bulk. Even at that, I find that I have to stop the windlass and distribute the chain a few times when weighing anchor. The thing I have considered in allowing for a longer rode, however, is to buy plaited nylon rope. It’s spendy, but lays wonderfully flat in the locker while still maintaining the elasticity you want for anchor rode (unlike braided rope). My spare anchor which I keep under the forward berth now has 350’ of plaited rope rode spliced onto 35’ of chain and it’s surprisingly compact. The plaited rope is also supposed to be compatible with the windlass though I haven’t tried that yet.

John
 
If you are looking for more rode try 8 plait line in combination with the chain. It is more flexible and lays flatter, hence you can add more length.
 
newbie question- Why do you need/want so much chain?
 
ixlr8":21abfvwo said:
newbie question- Why do you need/want so much chain?
There's an engineering term called "Catenary." It refers to the angle of pull against an anchor, and the lower the angle of pull the greater the holding power of an anchor should be. More chain usually equals more holding power.

http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Scope_vs_catenary
 
Mr. Ed":1q9ms0vv said:
ixlr8":1q9ms0vv said:
newbie question- Why do you need/want so much chain?
There's an engineering term called "Catenary." It refers to the angle of pull against an anchor, and the lower the angle of pull the greater the holding power of an anchor should be. More chain usually equals more holding power.

http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Scope_vs_catenary
Thank you. I guess I assumed that if you had 30-40 ft on chain on the bottom that would be enough. I am also guessing that in some waters a 30-ish ft chain would work but in others the 100 ft chain might be needed.
 
You're welcome. I'm new to Ranger Tugs, but have been boating most of my life. There are a couple of ways to increase the catenary effect (i.e. holding power of an anchor), and longer/heavier chain is the most common. Back in the day, and I think it's mentioned In Chapman's Piloting and Seamanship, another way was to attach a very heavy weight on the chain several feet away from the anchor. This latter method had the same effect as a longer chain, but didn't require much more room in the anchor locker.

A more modern consideration for us is that our windlasses are gauged for a specific chain size, so going up to a larger link size isn't an option. Hence, longer chain is the easiest way to increase an anchor's holding power. Hope this helps!
 
I agree I have adequate chain for most circumstances and it has served me well. My goal is to keep the rode to chain connection off the bottom. Mine is showing wear. I generally anchor in 30 feet or so and sleep best with a five to one set. I was hoping to increase my chain to 150 feet. I will definitely look into the better rode. Currently I have to spread the chain around as I bring it in so I expect to do that. Thanks for all the input!

Leon
 
Three additional points to consider:

1. While typically more chain increases holding power, more is not always better. It is difficult to fit "all chain" rode on Ranger Tugs, but that is not necessarily the ideal approach anyway. More chain is helpful, but also increased nylon line coupled with the chain (as opposed to chain only) allows for more stretch of the rode under strain such as high winds. The nylon line provides more stretch, hence coupled with adequate chain on the bottom (and a larger anchor) will maximize holding power.

2. Anchor locker capacity: on our 2013 R27, we replaced our standard-issue 50' chain + 200' 3-strand nylon prior to our trip up the Inside Passage to Alaska last summer, in anticipation of anchoring in depths up to 100'+ rather than the typical 30' depths common to anchorages of the San Juan's/Gulf Islands. We were able to easily fit 80' of chain + 270' of nylon PLAITED line, for a total rode length of 350' (vs. 250' previously), a 40% increase. Yes, we used every foot more than once anchoring in Alaska!

3. We upgraded the undersized Bruce anchor and relegated the entire standard-issue rode and anchor as our back-up (highly recommended to have a back-up anchor if you anchor regularly), and use a larger stainless steel Delta anchor as our primary. This will also increase holding power in combination with the increased chain/nylon rode that allows for added scope if needed.

The key to allowing this much more rode to fit easily in the anchor locker is, as noted previously, moving from 3-strand to plaited line. The plaited line is worth the high cost, for ease of stowage as well as overall handling. Even with the increased rode, we still have ample room to stow a mooring line in the anchor locker for use when we tie to a buoy.
 
I was having a tremendous wear problem on my wildcat on the the Lewmar windlass, the grippers were being ground down by the twisting chain and replaced once a year . After the third wildcat replacement, I talked with the chain importer in Miami and his experience was to use a Mantas swivel between the anchor and chain. I have a 100 feet of chain and 200 feet of 8 plait line, and a 35 lb Manson Supreme. I anchor a lot and this combination seems to work for me and my R27. Since the install of the Mantas Swivel, wear is minimal and that's going on three years. The Mantas Swivel is robust, as I did have misgivings about a swivel of anytype, but keep a close eye on it, and have found several mega yachts using a similar combination with no issues. I did redo the chain/rope splice to spread the wear on the chain. 8 plait splice was a challenge, but it does go through the wildcat.
 
Going with Fred's recommendation and a little off topic I also installed the mantis swivel. It makes retrieval easier with my 35 pound Manson Supreme. Especially as you are ready to get the shank on the launch. It rights itself and seats perfectly. The swivels are not inexpensive, but they are robust and also prevent the chain from "knotting" up on retrieval.
 
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